Weight Weenies

After reading through this Im not sure WTF is going on and why there is a problem. The crush washer does it's job. Sram and FSA both use the same or very similar set up. What you're doing with the washers is no different than on a spanish BMX bb or on a MTB BB with spacer rings.



That being said 99% of the SISL I install in BB30 bikes I use 2 plastic washers and the crush/wavy washer. I'll list the in order from the crank IN towards the bike.

DS Crank -> plastic washer -> wavy washer -> plastic washer -> bearing shield -> bearing.

With this setup my 4 season old standard 6806 bearings have very little drag and the they spin for 15-20 seconds with out a chain on them. There is no popping or creaking either.

Starnut

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Just slightly off topic - but a couple of questions of my own since I have a BB30 frame but have not yet taken the plunge with a BB30 BB.

I'm seeing SISL cranksets for sale - some have FSA on the rings - some say made in USA - is there a difference?

Does a regular crank puller work - or is it a special tool?

I think it requires the special KT something tool from cannondale. The rings you're talking about, made in USA, are probably cannondale rings, Mark IV or V?

STARNUT wrote:After reading through this Im not sure WTF is going on and why there is a problem. The crush washer does it's job. Sram and FSA both use the same or very similar set up. What you're doing with the washers is no different than on a spanish BMX bb or on a MTB BB with spacer rings.



That being said 99% of the SISL I install in BB30 bikes I use 2 plastic washers and the crush/wavy washer. I'll list the in order from the crank IN towards the bike.

DS Crank -> plastic washer -> wavy washer -> plastic washer -> bearing shield -> bearing.

With this setup my 4 season old standard 6806 bearings have very little drag and the they spin for 15-20 seconds with out a chain on them. There is no popping or creaking either.

Starnut

Great info...do you also loctite the bearings in the frame?

STARNUT wrote:After reading through this Im not sure WTF is going on and why there is a problem. The crush washer does it's job. Sram and FSA both use the same or very similar set up. What you're doing with the washers is no different than on a spanish BMX bb or on a MTB BB with spacer rings.



That being said 99% of the SISL I install in BB30 bikes I use 2 plastic washers and the crush/wavy washer. I'll list the in order from the crank IN towards the bike.

DS Crank -> plastic washer -> wavy washer -> plastic washer -> bearing shield -> bearing.

With this setup my 4 season old standard 6806 bearings have very little drag and the they spin for 15-20 seconds with out a chain on them. There is no popping or creaking either.

Starnut

If you rode more....

says the guy why spends most of his time on a plane.


The funny thing about owning a bike shop..... you don't have a lot of time to ride

Starnut

So STARNUT, since my si cranks arent spinning real free without the chain, would you recommend I remount the cranks with 2 plaster shims instead of 3 and mount em in the order you suggest?

I asked about crank pullers mainly because when I google "bb30 tool" I get lots of bearing installation tools, but nada on crank removal. so, regular crank puller or no?

bikerjulio wrote:I asked about crank pullers mainly because when I google "bb30 tool" I get lots of bearing installation tools, but nada on crank removal. so, regular crank puller or no?

no.

ElDuderino wrote:

bikerjulio wrote:I asked about crank pullers mainly because when I google "bb30 tool" I get lots of bearing installation tools, but nada on crank removal. so, regular crank puller or no?

no.

thanks a lot i checked again - nothing on the webz what so evar.

cannondale makes the tool and it's part number is KT013.

Starnut

STARNUT wrote:cannondale makes the tool and it's part number is KT013.

Starnut

thanks - the problem is that the only retailer to come up in a search wants $74 which is ridiculous.

the same search got me this:

If you want to save a few bucks on the KT013 tools, a friend of mine succesfully used a long socket of adequate width (I suppose any steel tube would do) and a conventional crankarm puller. Leaving the crankarm bolt threaded into the spindle on the opposite side, he just used the conventional crankarm tool to press-off the crankarm using the socket as the anvil.

from this:

http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=367767

so according to this with a little creativity a regular puller would work.

Helping mate for his super six build with a SL HG crank set.
We have pre assembled the crank set to see how parts fit and checking that threads are clean.
Not greased and did not torque or press any of shown parts.

*The BB spindle enters the drive side part very clean and almost bottoms into it whereas the non drive side crank arm does not slide completely onto the spindle. Look on photo.

My question is,
*Is this something usual and the crank arm will fully slide onto the BB spindle after greasing every part during installation and fixing the crank arm fixing bolt ? Nothing to be concerned about?






There is a configuration on the inside of the arms displaying their type (SL) ,length (172.5) ,left or right arm and four numbers at the end.
As you can see these four numbers are total different on our arms.
*Are HG SL crank arms manufactured in pairs and have these end numbers on the arms to match each other?
*Are these not of importance?



I will appreciate any contribution.

No Cannondale experts here around?

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Seen/downloaded this - Hollowgram SL Crankset Owners Manual ? I think that typically for the Hollowgram crank, the non-drive side crankarm is installed and torqued first then once installed, for maintenance only the drive side crank arm is removed.