I links pics. Regular and Mini. [Test report on page 3]
Moderator: robbosmans
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availpunk9
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:15 am
In the iLink, I've been using Nokon liner replacement from Jagwire. I think it's the liner for powercords. This stuff has a hair too big diameter and wouldn't fit in the minis. Any source for iLink mini liner?
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Japbeercow
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Jan 21, 2011 8:01 am
Are people using the supplied iLink wire for their installs? The ones I received are coated red and don't exactly match and I don't want to run a full liner. I ordered some jagwire shift wire and will be attempting the install with them this weekend.
Also, has anyone found a source for replacement mini ilink liner?
Also, has anyone found a source for replacement mini ilink liner?
Does anyone have a good online source for a set of brake and mini i-links? No distributor for Oz. 
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.
-- Frank Zappa
-- Frank Zappa
kman wrote:Does anyone have a good online source for a set of brake and mini i-links? No distributor for Oz.
I'm from Oz too, got mine from ebay.
There are a few sellers from Asia, took about 2 weeks to arrive, good luck!
Thanks lwrncc, I've been in contact with another WW who is importing some for his new shop. I'll post back with any updates.
You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.
-- Frank Zappa
-- Frank Zappa
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Gearhead65
- Posts: 110
- Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 1:24 am
- Location: Evansville, IN, USA
Only a few rides so far on the Alligators, but I would say they are good. There are some tricks to the install. I was having some shift issues in the rear and just redid some things a few nights ago that seemed to help. Alligator instructions blow.
Tips.....
Make sure the inner sheath extends all the way out the rear derailleur adjuster. If it does not, there is an opportunity for cable resistance there.
Make sure the inner sheath extends a few mm out the housing at the shifter for the same reason.
Before wrapping the bars, get the housings completely installed then put the FD and RD in the largest cog so you have maximum tension on the beads. Then use some elect tape to position the housings where you want on the bars and then wrap the bars while everything is under maximum tension.
I also put a couple drops of lube on the cable. Seems to be on the forums some do and some don't. I think it helped me though. What I put on was VERY light.
Tips.....
Make sure the inner sheath extends all the way out the rear derailleur adjuster. If it does not, there is an opportunity for cable resistance there.
Make sure the inner sheath extends a few mm out the housing at the shifter for the same reason.
Before wrapping the bars, get the housings completely installed then put the FD and RD in the largest cog so you have maximum tension on the beads. Then use some elect tape to position the housings where you want on the bars and then wrap the bars while everything is under maximum tension.
I also put a couple drops of lube on the cable. Seems to be on the forums some do and some don't. I think it helped me though. What I put on was VERY light.
2015 Specialized Crux Pro
2013 BMC TMR01 custom build
2013 Cannondale F-Series 29'er, Carbon 3
2012 Cannondale CAAD10-1 custom build, 14.06 lbs
1980 Palo Alto custom build
2013 BMC TMR01 custom build
2013 Cannondale F-Series 29'er, Carbon 3
2012 Cannondale CAAD10-1 custom build, 14.06 lbs
1980 Palo Alto custom build
There seems to be no source for replacement p.t.f.e. coated liners, mini or regular. I need both. Please tell me that someone, with all the i-links out there, has figured this out?
Google and Search leave me grrrr ing away the night.
Please?
Google and Search leave me grrrr ing away the night.
Please?
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prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
JN2Wheels wrote:There seems to be no source for replacement p.t.f.e. coated liners, mini or regular. I need both. Please tell me that someone, with all the i-links out there, has figured this out?
Google and Search leave me grrrr ing away the night.
Please?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ptfe-tubing/=ixv6n2
Measure.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
I-linked my Cervelo S3, should explain that I've run a bike wokshop for over 20 years so very used to replacing cables. Found the i-links fine to use, just required a little thought as it was the first time I used them. Did take a suprisingly long time to swap em (stuck some new carbon bars on so had to do all 4 cables and tape (>200 grams saved 
)
On the S3 I run internally, and linered 100%. The i-link liner threads perfectly through the cervelo guides. I did not use the i-link ferrule ends (too long to sit nicely in the red shifters), I used some nice red bling standard ferrules (with the black i-links) which I just widened the centre hole to allow the liner to come through
Now I've been running full liners on my mountain bikes for years and believe its the way to go as even getting coated in muck every trip the cables last years rather than a season even in the UK's rather damp and muddy conditions
Some notes and my suggestions (realise some of you wont agree)
1) With teflon liners and teflon coated wire DO NOT run lube, it will cause drag and attract dirt. Teflon on teflon is just about the slipperiest interface thats possible, oil will just add drag in time. If adding oil improves things then there was something not right to start with
2) I-links will allow small radius curves. DONT do it. Follow normal radiuses to keep friction low
3) Run the liners ALL the way through, from the shifter end ferrule to about 5mm from the derailer clamp bolt. The liner does not form any part of the cable tensioning or setting. you want it to cover as much cable as possible to keep the muck out. you want the derailer clamp to just touch it at max tension
4) I just took the old cable outers and measured the same length of COMPRESSED i-link outer. cable runs are almost identical in shape and arc
Very pleased with shifting. feels lighter and more positive than the Gore Ride On that was on there. So far not had any cable stretch (but expecting it). Braking is firmer (which is very noticabe in the rain) and complements the planet X brakes very well
What determines the life of linered cables is the inner wire cutting into the liner and sticking in the groove. This occurs at too tight bends, so avoid these when cabling. On my build it will be the bend around the bottom bracket plastic support where this occurs eventually. On some of my mountain bikes In the past I have used an old brake noodle to increase the radius here. On the cervelo its not too bad, but still the tightest bend in the system. if it does bed in here I can always slice away the liner in that area and get another 6 months of life out of it
)On the S3 I run internally, and linered 100%. The i-link liner threads perfectly through the cervelo guides. I did not use the i-link ferrule ends (too long to sit nicely in the red shifters), I used some nice red bling standard ferrules (with the black i-links) which I just widened the centre hole to allow the liner to come through
Now I've been running full liners on my mountain bikes for years and believe its the way to go as even getting coated in muck every trip the cables last years rather than a season even in the UK's rather damp and muddy conditions
Some notes and my suggestions (realise some of you wont agree)
1) With teflon liners and teflon coated wire DO NOT run lube, it will cause drag and attract dirt. Teflon on teflon is just about the slipperiest interface thats possible, oil will just add drag in time. If adding oil improves things then there was something not right to start with
2) I-links will allow small radius curves. DONT do it. Follow normal radiuses to keep friction low
3) Run the liners ALL the way through, from the shifter end ferrule to about 5mm from the derailer clamp bolt. The liner does not form any part of the cable tensioning or setting. you want it to cover as much cable as possible to keep the muck out. you want the derailer clamp to just touch it at max tension
4) I just took the old cable outers and measured the same length of COMPRESSED i-link outer. cable runs are almost identical in shape and arc
Very pleased with shifting. feels lighter and more positive than the Gore Ride On that was on there. So far not had any cable stretch (but expecting it). Braking is firmer (which is very noticabe in the rain) and complements the planet X brakes very well
What determines the life of linered cables is the inner wire cutting into the liner and sticking in the groove. This occurs at too tight bends, so avoid these when cabling. On my build it will be the bend around the bottom bracket plastic support where this occurs eventually. On some of my mountain bikes In the past I have used an old brake noodle to increase the radius here. On the cervelo its not too bad, but still the tightest bend in the system. if it does bed in here I can always slice away the liner in that area and get another 6 months of life out of it
Cervelo S3 2011. Blinged 6.718 Kg
prendrefeu wrote:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ptfe-tubing/=ixv6n2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Measure.
I appreciate the link, prend. Unfortunately, a quick look at the offerings shows nothing small enough.
Measured Diameters -
Shift Liner, o.d = 2mm, i.d = 1.3 (or so). Standard shift cables are 1.1/1.2 mm.
Brake Liner, o.d = 3mm, i.d = 1.75 (or so). Standard brake cables are 1.5/1.6 mm.
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prendrefeu
- Posts: 8580
- Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 10:32 pm
- Location: Glendale / Los Angeles, California
- Contact:
Hmmm... That sucks! I was hopeful there.
I'll try to source another b2b provider and will post if I find anything.
I'll try to source another b2b provider and will post if I find anything.
Exp001 || Other projects in the works.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
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