I split the difference and used the supplied cable end for my Dura Ace 7900 shifters which leaves a slight 'bump' under the bar tape and omitted the cable end and pushed the inner liner slightly into the plastic/teflon lined groove for my wifes bike (also with DA 7900).

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Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

Is it possible to use the liner only in the beads?
So not where the inner cable is 'open/vissible'?

This because the liner of the mini i-links is white.
The beads and my Addict are black.
I don't like like seeing the white liner.

I hope you understand my question.

Wezep,

Yes you can, just make shure that the end of the liner stops inside of the cablestop and stays hidden this way.

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'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'

Follow me on twitter. I try to be interesting
On Facebook!

Using mini for braking is officially prohibited? Anyone brave enough to try?

I 'studied' this option and the inhibitors are that the brake cable is too large in diameter to be fed into the mini ilink teflon liner and the diameter of the holes in the mini ilink pearls is too small to use regular ilink liner. That said, if so inclined, one could run the brake cables though the mini ilinks without the teflon liner but I doubt that would offer very good brake feedback and evertually might result in the cables etching the inside of the ilinks.

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Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

Using segmented housing without the liner doesn't work. Don't ask me how I know.

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Vertebrae. Precision braking and shifting.

Actually I also already knew the outcome - probably for the same reason as you.

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Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

I had a nightmare installing these this weekend. After 2 days the result was I-links everywhere but the rear derailleur loop, and liners trimmed just after the first frame stop. No matter what I did I could not get the right tension. I thought the liner might have been too long, so I first trimmed it just to stick on about 2mm past the end of the barrel adjuster at the rear der. I tried taking the slack up by turning the adjuster a full turn after setting the cable, which usually works (2010 Force), but even this time there was still a ton of slack that appeared to be coming from where it bent on the bb cable routing guide. Worrying about compressing the liner kept me from manually tugging the slack out a bit. I have the Yokozuna rear loop on for now and will be trying to get a new set of cables for them soon, but can anyone provide details on how they took the slack out when using them with Sram?

The brakes went fine and were super easy, but I would like to add the rear loop on for uniformity's sake and then put in the new cables and liners eventually. As of now my sanity is completely vanished and I would not bother with these again. I've cabled several bikes with everything from regular Shimano cables, to Gore sealed cables and everything in between so I didn't find the process difficult until it came down to taking the slack out.

Email sent to Kwalker. If it turns out to help him I need to alter it into a good guide for setting bikes up with I links.

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'Tape was made to wrap your GF's gifts, NOT hold a freakin tire on.'

Follow me on twitter. I try to be interesting
On Facebook!

Frankie-B...A guide to set these up would be really helpful. They seem like a pain for some and easy for others.

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

Anyone know where I can get replacement cables and liners? I've contacted Alligator directly but the response time is slow.

I will heed to the provided advice on the new install and attribute it to a cable tensioning issue.

Does anyone know the g/m for the Yokozuna?

How do the two compare?

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RUEGAMER 5.21kg, 11.48lbs

CRUMPTON 4.40kg, 9.70lbs

Just thought I'd chime in with a few pics of a recent iLink build I did.

Coming off DA 7900 stock cables, braking and shifting feel butter smooth, and worlds apart from DA.

Installation for me was relatively simple, although extremely time consuming, what with all the trial and error of threading the teflon liners, getting the right lengths and adjusting the links themselves etc... It took me a good 3 hours to get the job finished. For what it's worth, I discarded the provided instructions after about 10 minutes. The process is pretty self-explanatory, but Alligator seem to have made it sound a whole lot more complicated that it actually is!!!

Note in the 3rd from last picture the tension of the inner cable keeping the iLinks tought and away from the frame. This is one feature I love. Gone are those annoying rattles from the cables vibrating against each other/the frame.

Also note in the last picture the length of the teflon liners. I purposely ran mine 1 inch through/outside of the barrel adjusters. My logic behind this was that the inside diameter of the barrel adjuster was almost perfectly matched up with the outside diameter of the teflon liner, meaning that when pulled through, there was enough friction between the two to keep the liner firmly in place and to stop it slipping back through. I also did the same on the other side, as well as on the rear derailleur.

I opted to leave off the orange frame protectors. Well, in all honesty I forgot! In hindsight though they wouldn't have looked right on the bike, so they're in the toolbox keeping the leftover ferrules and iLinks company (PM me if you want them?)

Anyway, onto the pics:

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7900 Stealth Bike - 6.8kg

DA C50 Ghost

great build, i want one!

clee cycles in the uk do -> http://clee-cycles.co.uk/cc/catalog/

On my build I used the liners for the full length of the cable run.

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"Step forward the climber and all those who worship at the altar of lightness" - R. Millar