I links pics. Regular and Mini. [Test report on page 3]

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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by timzcat

5mm liner for powercordz liner by powercordz will work for brakes there are others that will work like Jagwire liner.

I am going to start looking for a mini liner replacement.

by Weenie

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by prendrefeu

JN2Wheels wrote:There seems to be no source for replacement p.t.f.e. coated liners, mini or regular. I need both. Please tell me that someone, with all the i-links out there, has figured this out?

Google and Search leave me grrrr ing away the night.



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by madmole

I-linked my Cervelo S3, should explain that I've run a bike wokshop for over 20 years so very used to replacing cables. Found the i-links fine to use, just required a little thought as it was the first time I used them. Did take a suprisingly long time to swap em (stuck some new carbon bars on so had to do all 4 cables and tape (>200 grams saved 8-))

On the S3 I run internally, and linered 100%. The i-link liner threads perfectly through the cervelo guides. I did not use the i-link ferrule ends (too long to sit nicely in the red shifters), I used some nice red bling standard ferrules (with the black i-links) which I just widened the centre hole to allow the liner to come through

Now I've been running full liners on my mountain bikes for years and believe its the way to go as even getting coated in muck every trip the cables last years rather than a season even in the UK's rather damp and muddy conditions

Some notes and my suggestions (realise some of you wont agree)

1) With teflon liners and teflon coated wire DO NOT run lube, it will cause drag and attract dirt. Teflon on teflon is just about the slipperiest interface thats possible, oil will just add drag in time. If adding oil improves things then there was something not right to start with
2) I-links will allow small radius curves. DONT do it. Follow normal radiuses to keep friction low
3) Run the liners ALL the way through, from the shifter end ferrule to about 5mm from the derailer clamp bolt. The liner does not form any part of the cable tensioning or setting. you want it to cover as much cable as possible to keep the muck out. you want the derailer clamp to just touch it at max tension
4) I just took the old cable outers and measured the same length of COMPRESSED i-link outer. cable runs are almost identical in shape and arc

Very pleased with shifting. feels lighter and more positive than the Gore Ride On that was on there. So far not had any cable stretch (but expecting it). Braking is firmer (which is very noticabe in the rain) and complements the planet X brakes very well

What determines the life of linered cables is the inner wire cutting into the liner and sticking in the groove. This occurs at too tight bends, so avoid these when cabling. On my build it will be the bend around the bottom bracket plastic support where this occurs eventually. On some of my mountain bikes In the past I have used an old brake noodle to increase the radius here. On the cervelo its not too bad, but still the tightest bend in the system. if it does bed in here I can always slice away the liner in that area and get another 6 months of life out of it
Cervelo S3 2011. Blinged 6.718 Kg

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by JN2Wheels

prendrefeu wrote:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ptfe-tubing/=ixv6n2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I appreciate the link, prend. Unfortunately, a quick look at the offerings shows nothing small enough.

Measured Diameters -

Shift Liner, o.d = 2mm, i.d = 1.3 (or so). Standard shift cables are 1.1/1.2 mm.
Brake Liner, o.d = 3mm, i.d = 1.75 (or so). Standard brake cables are 1.5/1.6 mm.

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by prendrefeu

Hmmm... That sucks! I was hopeful there.
I'll try to source another b2b provider and will post if I find anything.
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