A/C Campy10 Conversion Casette & Shimano CR420's?
Moderator: robbosmans
Please tell me I am doing something wrong here. Just picked up an A/C Campy10 conversion casette and was hoping to use my pair of Shimano-freehub CR420s off my other bike and ride them on my Campy-10 CR1.
Problem is, the top sprocket is right in the spokes... looks like its been installed correctly... Chain hits the spokes. Looks there is just not enough clearance.
I'll try to post a pic later.
Problem is, the top sprocket is right in the spokes... looks like its been installed correctly... Chain hits the spokes. Looks there is just not enough clearance.
I'll try to post a pic later.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
-
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 4:39 pm
Yes. I used the AC conversion cassette too and there is a spacer that goes behind the cassette to bring it away from the spokes.
-
- Posts: 1019
- Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 3:42 pm
- Location: in Colorado
Hey Rich, I did the same thing with my Dura Ace 9 speed wheel after I switched to Campy 10 speed. The conversion cassette I used was Wheels manufacturing.
The Wheels Man. cassette came with 3 different thickness of spacers that you put behind the cassette to move it out away from the spokes. You will want to use the minimum amount of spacers though. Adjust your upper limit set screw so the chain barely climbs on the inner most ( large ) cog. That will help keep the derraileur away from the spokes.
I ran into problems on the other end when I spaced it out too much. The smallest cog was too close to the frame when the chain was on it. So I had to put a washer behind the last piece that goes on the axle. To keep the dish right I put one on the other side also.
After all that fussing around to make it work, i don't use it because the shifting isn't very good. Also, the whole derraileur has to be adjusted when you swap out wheels. Not that hard but still a pain.
The best solution is to have wheels with the same spacing (Campy) so you can take one out and put the other in without adjusting anything.
I'm going to buy some Campy wheels ( or compatible ) in the future. The Dura Ace/open pro wheels are a good all around wheel but they just don't work on my bike.
The Wheels Man. cassette came with 3 different thickness of spacers that you put behind the cassette to move it out away from the spokes. You will want to use the minimum amount of spacers though. Adjust your upper limit set screw so the chain barely climbs on the inner most ( large ) cog. That will help keep the derraileur away from the spokes.
I ran into problems on the other end when I spaced it out too much. The smallest cog was too close to the frame when the chain was on it. So I had to put a washer behind the last piece that goes on the axle. To keep the dish right I put one on the other side also.
After all that fussing around to make it work, i don't use it because the shifting isn't very good. Also, the whole derraileur has to be adjusted when you swap out wheels. Not that hard but still a pain.
The best solution is to have wheels with the same spacing (Campy) so you can take one out and put the other in without adjusting anything.
I'm going to buy some Campy wheels ( or compatible ) in the future. The Dura Ace/open pro wheels are a good all around wheel but they just don't work on my bike.
They are indeed close enough to work. To get the Shimano 10 cassette to work a little better with Campy 10, I substitute the single cog 10 speed spacers for Shimano 9 speed ones. Works well for me.
skid wrote:just buy a shimano 10-speed cassette. i've heard that this is compatible enough with campy that you won't notice the difference.
jester69 wrote:Since campy cassettes are wider than shimano cassettes some wheelsets that cut it close to the shimano cassette simply can't use an adapter cassette for lack of space...
You may be in that situation.
Take care,
Jester
Thanks for all the replies fellas, I just got back home.
The casette came with no extra spacers... and honestly...I'd have to be pretty thick to fix the problem.
Also, after comparing my two sets of A/C wheels, Campy 38mm Carbons, and Shimano CR420's... it looks like they build up the rear wheel with a different offset. Something is wrong... I'll shoot some comparision shots, and hopefully we can get to the bottom of this. I'll call A/C on Monday morning.
Another option is to get an AmClassic campy splined cassette body and swap out the cassette body when you want to use those wheels with your campy equiped bike. It is an easy operation that doesn't take much more time than swapping cassettes.
Definitely. You will also need to redish the wheel.
ndbike wrote:Another option is to get an AmClassic campy splined cassette body and swap out the cassette body when you want to use those wheels with your campy equiped bike. It is an easy operation that doesn't take much more time than swapping cassettes.
I don't understand why he would need to re-dish the wheel if he changes the freehub body? If the axel doesn't change, and the rim was at the center of the axel to begin with, then how would the cassette body change the dish?
Seems to me the best bet would be to change the freehub body. I've done this with a set of wheels (non-AM Classic) and I didn't need to fix the dish. Just my 2 cents.
Cheers
Seems to me the best bet would be to change the freehub body. I've done this with a set of wheels (non-AM Classic) and I didn't need to fix the dish. Just my 2 cents.
Cheers
Toys-R-Us
ras11 wrote: I don't understand why he would need to re-dish the wheel if he changes the freehub body? If the axel doesn't change, and the rim was at the center of the axel to begin with, then how would the cassette body change the dish?
Ras, the width of the cassette body on a Campag hub is wider than that on a Shimano hub, so unless AC designed the hub with the drive side flange further in, then when swapping bodies the rim will be not centered.
Success is how far you you bounce back up after being knocked down
I looked into this issue for you... see...
http://www.amclassic.com/tech/pdf/Hub_Cassette_Body_Swap.pdf
I didn't realize that you need to add a 0.5 mm spacer to your axel, which lucky-you, means you have to re-dish your wheel. That sucks.
I'm sorry to get your hopes up. I do know that many hub designs allow you to switch the freehub body without changing the axel spaceing... But unfortunatly the AC hubs are not one of those designs.
I emailed AC for you, and they said "We have bodies available for $100 msrp + shipping. You will need to redish. Please check out the directions on the technical link" So I guess you could always send your wheel into AC and have them do it for you? But it's kind of an expensive option at this point. Best of luck.
http://www.amclassic.com/tech/pdf/Hub_Cassette_Body_Swap.pdf
I didn't realize that you need to add a 0.5 mm spacer to your axel, which lucky-you, means you have to re-dish your wheel. That sucks.
I'm sorry to get your hopes up. I do know that many hub designs allow you to switch the freehub body without changing the axel spaceing... But unfortunatly the AC hubs are not one of those designs.
I emailed AC for you, and they said "We have bodies available for $100 msrp + shipping. You will need to redish. Please check out the directions on the technical link" So I guess you could always send your wheel into AC and have them do it for you? But it's kind of an expensive option at this point. Best of luck.
Toys-R-Us
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com