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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:04 pm 
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I also have a better feeling when building a wheel with the spokes interlaced. Mavic do some of there wheels without interlacing though don't they.

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Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:04 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:46 am 
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eric wrote:
On the rear it makes a difference which way the pulling spokes go. If the last cross has the pulling spoke on the outside (head out), tension on it will pull the spokes inward. If it's on the inside (head in), tension on the pulling spoke will pull the spokes outward. That reduces clearance between the spoke and derailleur cage.

I read somewhere that Mavic did an experiment on their pro neutral support wheels, lacing them each way and recording what happened. They found that the heads in lacing for pulling spokes made more reliable wheels. I wish I could find that reference again.

I've done both and haven't noticed a difference, but since I only build wheels for myself my sample size is too small.


i remember that test. heads out had marginally shorter lifespan. pulling spokes with all elbows left and with all elbows right were off the back.
i typically build with pulling spokes heads out bc i find it easier/more intuitive to turn the hub that way when building.


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 Post subject: Will this hub work ?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Hi
I have a set of ultegra wh-r6600 wheels but the rear hub is knackered, would this dura ace hub work??? http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 6061493269
Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 1:33 pm 
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eric wrote:
On the rear it makes a difference which way the pulling spokes go. If the last cross has the pulling spoke on the outside (head out), tension on it will pull the spokes inward. If it's on the inside (head in), tension on the pulling spoke will pull the spokes outward. That reduces clearance between the spoke and derailleur cage.

I read somewhere that Mavic did an experiment on their pro neutral support wheels, lacing them each way and recording what happened. They found that the heads in lacing for pulling spokes made more reliable wheels. I wish I could find that reference again.

I've done both and haven't noticed a difference, but since I only build wheels for myself my sample size is too small.


However if you lace the pulling spokes heads out then the lazy (forward facing) spokes have to be elbows out and in the event of pushing a chain into the spokes they will tend to pick up the chain and jam it between the cassette and flange while carving great divots out of the spokes. If the outside spokes are facing backwards (pulling spokes heads in) they tend (in theory anyway) to push the chain away from the hub so the spoke damage is less severe.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 4:14 pm 
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bm0p700f wrote:
Diarmudic 3x lacing for 32H please. Rev's will be fine I am running a set of 28H RR415 with Sapim Lasers all round and they are fine. However there is alittle bit of flex when standing up and putting out some torque. The use of 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes DS helps cure that problem and leads to a durable rear wheel. You could try ACI's 2.0/1.7/2.0mm spokes or Sapims D-light 2.0/1.65/2.0mm spokes for greater stiffness over revs/lasers.

I would use Sapim spokes as they are cheaper than DT spokes and ust as good and Race DS and Lasers NDS is a combination that works well.

Thanks for that.

I'm considering changing the build somewhat due to price of components and availability.

Now thinking of a
Ambrosio Crono 32H
Tune Mig 70 / Mag 170
DT Revs all around apart from DT Comps on the rear DS
3x front and back

Any opinions on the quality of wheel that would result from such a build?


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:27 pm 
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A good quality wheel is one that meets your needs. It stands a very good chance of meeting your needs but I don't know what they are. It will be durable and stiff. However servicing tune hubs requires some special tools apparantly and I have heard of some tune freewheel issues that are awkward to solve but my direct experience of tune hubs extends that far as I can't afford them. However they are light hubs with good geometry.

I think you will be fine.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:31 pm 
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Dane 456 The hub was never available as a spare so it is impossible to tell if the hubs are interhanageable.
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 728264.pdf

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 10:52 pm 
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diarmuidc wrote:
Thanks for that.

I'm considering changing the build somewhat due to price of components and availability.

Now thinking of a
Ambrosio Crono 32H
Tune Mig 70 / Mag 170
DT Revs all around apart from DT Comps on the rear DS
3x front and back

Any opinions on the quality of wheel that would result from such a build?


I haven't worked with those rims, but I have worked with those hubs/spokes. Overall, I think that would be a solid build. The Mig 70/Mag 170 is a solid hubset and seems to be pretty durable (especially when considering their weight).
I like your idea on the lacing of 3x all around too. In that hole count, it really is ideal.

-Roland

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 11:34 pm 
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Cool. Order is in so will post a review when I get them


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:45 am 
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I wanted to find out which hub to use on my next wheel build. I plan on building some 32 hole Mavic Open Pro CD rims for the high mileage wheel set. The deal is I can get both brands about the same money. I think the CK in black with black spokes would be sweet. The Dura Ace hubs are also nice and less to maintain.
I weigh 185 lbs, plan on using DtSwiss Comp spokes and would like to build these as laterally stiff as possible.
Is there any benefit between these two hubs. Thanks :up:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 1:04 am 
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I think either way you would be stoked. They are two completely different hubs, however, they both are quite durable. The one thing that would sell me on the Kings though is the 5 year warranty. Kinda hard to beat that.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 9:44 am 
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Dura aca is cupo and cone and is servicable at home with a couple of cone spanners so long long as you buy grade25 stainless ball bearings and good grease. The CK hub will use proprietry CK bearings and require special tools to service. So on that basis I would always use the Shimano Dura ace hub.

Otherwise you will have an excellent wheelset and one I want. Alternative rims are the DTSwiss RR465 and ambrosio Excellight.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:13 pm 
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Hi, I'm new here, but have been lurking for a long time. I want to build up a cost-effective, lightweight aluminum tubular wheelset. I weigh 155 lbs and will use this wheelset for some training, but mostly climbing in the mountains, crits, and maybe some road races. I want something that is pretty snappy, and that I can spin up fast. I haven't been terribly hard on wheels in the past. I was thinking:

Velocity escape rims

Bikehubstore or similar hubs (20/24)?

Either Sapim CX ray or Sapim Laser/Race spokes with alloy nipples.

Thoughts on this build for my situation? Looking for <1350 grams


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 7:38 pm 
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Velocity escape rims 390g apparantly. Available in 24, 28 and 32 hole drillings. No 20H!

Novatec A291SB SL hub and F482SB-SL is 290g without skewers.
Sapim laser/Cxray spoke with alloy nips 24F and 28R 2x allround.

Total weight is 1335g. If the BHS hubs are lighter substract the difference to get an approximate weight.
At your weight this build would be more than fine. I find a 28 rear using a RR415 with laser spokes both sides to be a bit flexy but not too much when I putting power down but I got alot fitter recently and it was an experiement. I an 80 kg though and it fast climbs out of the saddle that do it. There is a simple solution though - sit down Malcolm.

You should be fine.

Using Mavic reflex rims a 360g each 32H front and rear with Novatec hubs as above and Sapim laser spokes would give a weight of 1340g. Funny that more spokes same weight almost. The wheels with mavic rims would in theory spin up a bit quicker if you that sensitve. The difference in the moment of inertia and the energy required to spin up to say 20 mph between the two wheel sets would be small though in reality.

Stiffness will probably be similar but other can comment on that.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:21 pm 
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jaketim114 wrote:
Hi, I'm new here, but have been lurking for a long time. I want to build up a cost-effective, lightweight aluminum tubular wheelset. I weigh 155 lbs and will use this wheelset for some training, but mostly climbing in the mountains, crits, and maybe some road races. I want something that is pretty snappy, and that I can spin up fast. I haven't been terribly hard on wheels in the past. I was thinking:

Velocity escape rims

Bikehubstore or similar hubs (20/24)?

Either Sapim CX ray or Sapim Laser/Race spokes with alloy nipples.

Thoughts on this build for my situation? Looking for <1350 grams


I haven't worked with those hubs, but that rim seems to be pretty solid. At your weight it would be plenty stiff. If you were much bigger though (ie my size 210 lbs) then the TB25 from Kinlin may be a better option. The spoke count would be doable as well. Do you know what cross pattern your going to do?

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Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 8:21 pm 


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