i've been unsuccessful in finding some for purchase. mind if i ask where you got yours?

thank you!

i've mounted and installed that combination (404 + mastik 1 + evo cx) a number of times and never have i seen the issue you describe. obviously, that is not a ton of data, but i suspect something specific to your environment (whether that is pre-installation contamination or something occurring during your ride such as over-lubing the chain as suggested).

i phoned schwalbe north america this morning. they told me they will not be getting the tubular glue remover because they are unable to get it through customs.

Thats how I do it too..

Also to remove the access glue I use acetone. Its not as harsh white spirit

But it isn't anywhere near as effective (many would say, ineffective)...

i got it from germany, i think they'll ship to usa, but you'll need to see if shipping costs are ok...

http://www.bike-discount.de/?lg=en&country=227&cr=USD#

Hi,



Don't know why this keeps popping up but I'll repeat it one more time:

Acetone is to degrease rims with. On a new rim to remove mold release residues or after you've removed an unwanted layer or rim cement from a rim with some chemical that leaves a mildly greasy deposit on the rim bed: diesel oil, white spirit (aka Stoddard solvent) and other mineral spirits tend to do that.

It has no use for removing rim cement as it simply flashes off too fast to have an effect.

Ciao,

P.S. As for Schwalbe's rim cement remover crossing the pond: I'm surprised to learn Schwalbe hasn't thought this through and have it made in the US for the US market instead of trying to export it and have it stopped (one wonders why) at customs.
Somehow that excuse has a false ring to it if you'd ask me.....

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

I got the same response from the US distributor a few months ago when I wanted to try it out. It's hard to get anything like that through customs these days with all the security checks and restrictions on flammable products etc.
I did find a product by Klean Strip ("America's #1 Stripper Brand") simply called Adhesive Remover that I thought might be very similar to Schwalbe's product. Gel like and thick, you put it on and let it work for a while. Supposed to remove "adhesives, mastics and contact cement". Maybe I didn't give it a fair shake but it was making a goopy mess and so I just went back to using Goof-Off which works really well.

But yes, acetone does nothing for actually removing glue.

_________________
C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
Trek Emonda SL

Hi,

Politics aside, let's make sure that whatever is used to remove rim cement (or contact adhesives in general as some of the die hard TT setups use industrial adhesives as well) do not contain toluene as that is one of the few chemicals that actually do attack the epoxy in the CF composite.

I thought Goof-off does contain toluene, not sure though. Anyway, mind your health as well....

Ciao,

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

Hi, i am after some advice on the level of difficulty in removing a tub. I apply 3 layers on the rim and two on the tub, then mount (hypernon wheels with vittoria tubs). I have only removed a couple of tubs which usually ends up with me struggling for a good 10 minutes, building up a sweat and blistered thumbs if I really go for it!!

Is this normal? Or am I putting the glue on too thickly? I only ask because I have read that people say they are quicker to replace a tub than a clincher.

Any advice most helpful.

That is a good indication of a decent job. In the comfort of your basement, it is probably a lot harder to get the tire off. In a race, you won't even remember you had to change it...

Hi,



It can be quicker but it does take some experience. Basically you need to have an eye for where the weakest spots can be: spoke hole areas are your most obvious targets.
Keep in mind also that some of us build in some weak spot just for the purpose of being quick in changing a tub.
It usually involves an easy to remember spot, right opposite the valve, at a spoke hole for instance, that receives no cement on the the tub's base tape. Just an example.
It doesn't need to be be more than say half an inch, just enough so you can worm a plastic tyre lever between the rim and the tub to get started.
Don't worry, it's perfectly safe. It takes a lot of odd forces to actually roll a tub.

Thick layers of cement are actually even easier but unwanted as they take like for ever to fully cure and up rolling resistance since they just stay too soft. Too much room for minuscule movements creating losses.

Ciao,

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

i've had the same thumb-blistering experience removing a tyre

now i carry a lezyne matrix lever, one is enough, it's light, strong, won't damage a cf rim and the end is blunt enough to avoid damage to basetape or sidewall

once started, the lever can be slipped through the gap so that it sticks out each side of the tyre and then slid along to release the glue

http://www.lezyne.com/products/tire-rep ... rix-levers

ordered the Schwalbe cement remover.

will try upload progress and see how well it works

(unless there are negative feedback, so far very little feedback but good)

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Dogma 6710g

double post