The final parts will be arriving today for my 03' Litespeed Ghisallo Build.
My questions is did I make a fair parts selection based upon my budget and needs, etc. I'm 5'10', 160, avg. build. I have been riding mtn bikes for the last 6 months and have improved tremendously!

Now I want to make the move to road as well. Not only for the perfect training it will provide for mtn biking, but I also hope to begin some low level racing and 100 mile rides in the future.

I have had 2 bike shops do a fit kit analysis for me to get the proper sizing and fit. The specs on the Ghisallo fell right in line.

My current parts list is below with and estimated weight for each - I know the weights are probably off, but I won't find out how much till I begin assemble this weekend.

Claimed (g)
Frame: 03 Litespeed Ghisallo M/L - Compact Goemetry 899
Fork: Alpha Q Sub 3 310
Cables & Housings: Dura-Ace 80
Headset: Chris King 1 1/8" Threadless 126
Headset Spacers: FSA Carbon 10
Stem: FSA OS-115 31.8 x 110mm 115
Handlebar: FSA K-Wing 31.8 x 42cm 240
Handlebar Tape: ? ?
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR XP Gel Flow 175
Seatpost: FSA K-Force Light 27.2 x 350mm 175
Seat Binder: Litespeed OEM 12
Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace FD-7700 w/ clamp 83
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace RD-7700 195
Shift & Brake Levers: Shimano Dura-Ace STI-7700 432
Crank Set: FSA Superlight 172.5 mm 39/53 T., 9 spd 505
Bottom Bracket: Shimano Dura-Ace BB-7700 68x109.5 mm 173
Cassette: Shimano Dura-Ace 7700 12-21 155
Chain: KMC X9 Narrow 229
Brakes: Shimano Dura-Ace 7700 318
Wheelset Front: Mavic Kysirium SSC SL '04 Front 660
Wheelset Rear: Mavic Kysirium SSC SL '04 Rear 840
Tyres: Michelin Pro Race 440
Tubes: Latex or lightweight seamless butyl 140
Skewers: Mavic BR 601 Composite QR 100
Pedals: Speedplay X-1 Ti 150
Bottle Cage: ? ?
Computer: ? ?
Total: 6562

I went with all FSA Components, because I have a line in with the manufacture at great pricies, the wheels were a steal on EBAY, frame and partial component came from a LBS who wanted to unload it, etc. So I chose these parts based on comfort, great pricing, and quick availability... not to mention they should look good together.

So what do the experts think?
Spending the money was not really a big issue, but I am thinking about putting the CAT Claws on EBAY and keeping the Dura Ace brakes so I don't look like too much of a kook or as a roadie says: a "Fred" whatever that means...

What should I have done differently? Your input is appreciated.

For me everything is all right with your components choice...

Only douubt is about Ghisallo's overall strenght: I've heard that is a quite soft frame, so it's not very responsive on climbs, sprints and downhills. But that is not an issue, it's a specific characteristic of your frame. Litespeed is one of the best manufacturers around there (maybe the best in Ti frames ?), and they don't manufacture bad frames...

For allround use Ksyriiums are great wheels (as well as Campy Eurus & Neutrons, and others), but if you're looking for ultimate climbing performance I'd suggest you to switch to something lighter (carbon rims... if you like them).

Nice bike... go straight on your road.

Bye, Benz.

I have heard the same thing about the 2002 frames. However the 2003 frame has the new GET (Geometrically Enhanced Tubing) which is supposed to make it stiffer. We'll see.

There is difference between the real weights and the claimed weights

Alpha Q Sub 3 +70/80gr (You must use a heavy special expader)


FSA K-Wing 31.8 x 42cm +40gr

Handlebar Tape: 40-50gr

Crank Set: FSA Superlight 172.5 mm 39/53 T., 9 spd +6gr

Seatpost: FSA K-Force Light 27.2 x 350mm 175 +33gr

Wheelset Front: Mavic Kysirium SSC SL '04 Front 660 +40gr

Wheelset Rear: Mavic Kysirium SSC SL '04 Rear 840 +15gr

Bottle Cage: 5gr to 35gr (for one)

Spec looks great to me, nothing crazy light, just excellent hard wearing dependable parts. I think too much has been written about light frames/components by people ill suited for that part. So many times i have read a review about x frame being as stiff as a noodle etc then finish of the article with a comment such as "well this frame/wheels was not rated for my 220lbs but should be fine for a much smaller rider.

What i am saying is at 160 lbs you should be fine on a M/L ghisallo.
My LBS guy who is 190lbs and built like a power lifter rides a S/M and loves it, little flexy but what the hell its only 850 grms or so! You cant have it all

Enjoy

That's sort of what I was going for. First, I didn't want the same stock Ghisallo everyone else has nor did I want to spend the money and co crazy light which could comprimize the strength and integrity of the bike. And to build it superlight would just be for fun, because the reduction in weight would probably not effect me much at my current riding level.

This should be a pretty comfortable, fast ride!

Thanks for your comments thus far!

All the parts are pretty nice, just be careful. If you've only been riding 6 months, and never road, you better ride very conservitivley. A road bike is quite a bit different from a mountain bike, less stopping power, less traction, not as stable, and much easier to crash.

Personally for a beginner like you I dont think building a $5000 bike right off the bat was very smart. It would be better to start on a less expensive bike for two reasons. One, you may not like road, two, a a lower end bike ussually has slightly different geomety in favor for a beginner, i.e. easier to control.

Just don't go 80km/h on your first descent, it might be your last.

Not trying to be rude, just informing you of what your in for, be careful!

But a nice bike.

_________________
MAMA SAID KNOCK YOU OUT! HUH!

Well spoken, several folks have said the same thing.
But it's not my first time on a road bike, just the first one I have owned. I have taken a couple of trips to Vegas and rode the canyons & hills up there and borrowed friends bikes for rides here and there. Of course like the rest of us, I grew up riding a bmx bike.

But I will certainly heed your advice and be cautious.
And I got a really good deal on all the parts, so it wasn't nearly as expensive as most people think. What can I say, I just like to have nice stuff - even if I do tear it up.

I looked at your list again, heres some weight descrepencies.

Alphas Q sub 3 is around 310g, but you have to add 50+ more for the glue in star nut it comes with

Dura Ace cables and houseing isn't 80g, more like 160g

FSA stem is over 140g

K wing is around 270g

Cranks are 511g, I owned them

Ksyriums are 80g heavier then manufactuers claim

Just another note, I see that you have a 11-21 cassette. Thats a pretty burley cassette. Your not getting that just for weight savings are you? What the terain like where you ride, mostly flat or hilly. 11-21 is a far cry from a mountain 11-32 cassette X 22. Just make sure your getting that cassete for the right reason.

And for inner tubes don't go letax, you can get a butal just as light, some even lighter and they hold are muh better.

Hope that helps.

_________________
MAMA SAID KNOCK YOU OUT! HUH!

Thanks for the weight info - I hope to weigh everthing before it goes together. I will be sure to post my findings when it's done.

As for the 11-21 cassette... well that's what the group came with. I live in Florida where the terrain is basically flat. The only hills are the freeway overpasses and bridges over canals.

What do you recommend???

My mtn bike has a 11-32.

Thanks for all the input - it really helps!!!
I'll buy the beer for those who aren't on a diet or strict fitness program!

39 x 21T should be fine, in Florida I doubt you will even use the 21T.

Colorado requires MUCH bigger cassettes though

Finally you understand! It's cool, I was just kind of pissed off that day, didn't mean to bite your ear off. WEIGHT WEENIES YEAH!

And as for your cassette drew is right, living in florida 11-21 is probley the perfect cassette. Good luck with your bike.

_________________
MAMA SAID KNOCK YOU OUT! HUH!

Yeah no probs, so thinking of a Cannondale CAAD 7 eh?

I guess I will probably buy a spare cassette for trips up north to the hilly country. I remember the first time I made a very long climb with the wrong gear ratio - it sucked! (which was a rental from the LBS in Las Vegas)

The next day I had a different bike (I didn't even know what gear ratios were at the time) and it made a world of difference. Made it to the top no problem... well it was tough, but I made it without stopping (or puking).

What do you recommend for a spare cassette for the mountains and will I have to get a seperate chain as well?

Dura ace or any standard road rear derraileur (sp?) will handle 27T max.

from a 21 to 27 is a bit of a stretch for the chain, it will work but shifting will be sluggish as the pulley cage will be horizontal to the chainstay due to increased chain tension. If only occasional use O.K, but if you plan regular trips with a large cassette get a longer spare chain.