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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:09 am 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5850
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Quote:
Some of the time you can bend the housing so it gives more clearance. i do this with all my housings.


Does that actually work with run off the mill Shimagnola housings as well?
Somehow I have a nagging doubt about it staying bent in the long run....

Quote:
Well I use those transparent A4 size printer stickers or those faux carbon
sticker sheets that they use for motorcycles.


Same here...
You can actually protect any spot on the bike that's prone to have it's paint damaged that way. Nobody notices it unless they stick their nose right on it.
A circular cutter is a must if you want to copy the elipsoid shapes those fancy chainstay protectors come in....
Heck, you can even get tough as nails wire mesh reinforced carbon jobs nowadays although I suppose these are likely more targeted at the MTB chain suckers.... :?

Ciao, :wink:

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.


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 Post subject:
Posted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:09 am 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:17 am 
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User avatar

Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:59 am
Posts: 1386
Location: Sydney, Australia
Westbank wrote:
Bruiser wrote:
I use sticky tape, which on a CR1 clear finish is very hard to see.


I have a CF frame and the I think the transparent tape would be good. When you say Sticky tape are you talking about the stuff used to cover books ?


No just the standard tape you use on paper and buy for almost nothing.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:25 am 
Offline
Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5850
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Quote:
No just the standard tape you use on paper and buy for almost nothing.


Sounds like what we commonly refer to as "cellotape" overhere.
The translucent plastic foil to cover bookcovers with is more of the same but comes in roughly 40 cm width and 1 to 5 m lengths and is a trifle thicker, isn't it?

Main thing is, both are cheap but depending on how long it has been stocked, the "cellotape" tends to show some glue sticking when you pull it away from the underlaying layer IME.

Ciao, :wink:

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 2:24 am 
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User avatar

Joined: Thu Mar 17, 2005 3:25 am
Posts: 2206
Location: Southern Indiana USA
I slip a piece of aquarium tubing over the brake/shift cable in question. The surface is hard enough and slick that dirt and grit doesn't stick to it, but it will not scratch the paint because the surface hardness of the paint is much stronger. I have only been doing this for 3 years with good results and no dulling, but possibly over decades it might dull the paint, but I don't think so.

_________________
For certain parts stiffer is more important than lighter.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 3:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 3:42 pm
Posts: 1021
Location: in Colorado
It works with the shimano and the Campy housing. You have to really bend it more than you want because it springs back. After you do it a couple of times you get the hang of it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 5:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Mar 23, 2003 3:10 am
Posts: 466
Location: Airport Lounge
doozer wrote:
the best solution ever are these foam cyclinders that slip over your outer cables. THey're about 50mm long and are soft so prevent damage to the frame. I got mine from Decathlon. much better than stickers that eventually wear through and often the stickers are large enough as the cables move across the frame as you steer.

Doozer :thumbup:


These rubber or foam type cylinders sometimes catch some grit, and can still produce wear on the paint or frame finish.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 10:11 am 
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User avatar

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 1:36 pm
Posts: 4123
I use 3M Scotchgard clear protective film. It available in several thicknesses. Car shops also use it to shield off areas against stone damage.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 10:20 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 05, 2003 7:27 pm
Posts: 2510
Location: Manchester, UK
I have seen a number of tiny rubber o-rings used over the cable outer that seemed like quite a good solution.


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 Post subject: Options
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 12:28 pm 
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User avatar

Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2002 4:49 am
Posts: 1903
XTC-Max wrote:
you can tie a zipt-tie around the head tube, and another one on each side of the headtube to tie the housings to the one zip-tie around the head tube. no more rubbing!


This works brilliantly, or you can cross the cables (run the rear into the LH cable stop).

You could also be a real WW and go fixed - no need for heavy gears 8)

_________________
Success is how far you you bounce back up after being knocked down


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 Post subject: O rings
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 1:56 pm 
Offline

Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 2:20 pm
Posts: 92
Location: cambridge
I use rubber O rings. They are very neat and cheap. Get them from your local hardware store.

Staggerlee


Attachments:
kodak bike 033 o rings (Small).jpg
kodak bike 033 o rings (Small).jpg [ 92.89 KiB | Viewed 243 times ]
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 2:14 pm 
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User avatar

Joined: Tue Mar 08, 2005 5:34 pm
Posts: 1918
Location: USA
Quote:
Some of the time you can bend the housing so it gives more clearance. i do this with all my housings...You need to do it when there is no cable in it.


This is a bad idea. When you bend the cable house without a cable in it, all you are doing is crimping the metal internals of the housing, causing a crimp that effectively lessens the inner diameter of the housing and causing increased friction for the cable. While this may not matter much with a campy drivetrain with it's stronger derailluer springs, it will matter on a shimano drivetrain where you'll get slow shifts (especially from big to smaller rings and whichever way the sping has to pull on the rear der) and dragging brakes.


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