Campy tuneing parts

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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TimT
Posts: 78
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Location: New Orleans Louisiana USA
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by TimT

I would like to tune some Campy der. and brakes. Does anyone know who makes alum./Ti bolts for Campy. Like SRP does for Shimano. Specifcly rear der. mounting bolts pulley bolts and the like.

Thanks
Tim

by Weenie


Carbonman
Posts: 321
Joined: Mon Oct 04, 2004 10:10 am
Location: London (then Tokyo, now Singapore)

by Carbonman

Don't forget to get the Fyberlite rear der. inside carbon plate - save at least 2gms, looks great and costs next to nothing (for a ww).

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Tippster
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by Tippster

Carbonman wrote:Don't forget to get the Fyberlite rear der. inside carbon plate - save at least 2gms, looks great and costs next to nothing (for a ww).


Aren't they like £12 to save 2g...

agree they are a small amount of money , but in $$$/g they are more expensive than Ti bolt tuning...!
"Ride it like you've just stolen it!"

Carbonman
Posts: 321
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Location: London (then Tokyo, now Singapore)

by Carbonman

That is correct but what is £12 for a ww ? Even if it only saves 2gms it looks great and your replacing non-carbon for carbon :D

fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

Specifcly rear der. mounting bolts pulley bolts and the like.


Nuts and bolts adhere to standards allowing them to be easily specced.
So, all you need to do is make a list of the ones you want to replace, distinguish between steel/alu parts and find a supplier of the lightweight versions of each.

Unless you know what you're doing (meaning you know better than the manufacturer), never replace steel bolts with alu ones, titanium is what you want there.
Most alu bolts can be replaced with light alloy ones even sometimes nylon bolts.

Chances are some of the specialized vendors have already done your homework and offer a replacement kit for a generic drivetrain, brakeset, chainrings, whatever.

All in all an upgrade path for the person who's already exhausted all others; most lightweight goodies already come fitted with mini-weight fixings so if it's just the drivetrain parts you're looking at maybe.....50 to 60 g of weightsaving all in?

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

mike
Resident Pro
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Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 9:42 pm

by mike

i have the campy fibre lite on all my bikes. i have an extra one if need it. $29.50 shipped in the USA. pm me if interested.

TimT
Posts: 78
Joined: Sat Apr 16, 2005 1:44 am
Location: New Orleans Louisiana USA
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by TimT

I know were to get and have a list of the regular bolts. I'm just looking for the special bolts like the rear der. hanger and the pulleys. The Shimano ones don't even come close. I've already taken the rear mech. plate and shaved off 4 grams with some creative cutting with my die grinder and polishing. I do have a Fiberlite on my MTB. It cut the weight in about half.

Peace
Tim
New Orleans Louisiana

mike
Resident Pro
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by mike

tim t, please check your pm.

DGSdale
Posts: 100
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:26 pm

by DGSdale

fdegrove wrote
Unless you know what you're doing (meaning you know better than the manufacturer), never replace steel bolts with alu ones, titanium is what you want there.
Most alu bolts can be replaced with light alloy ones even sometimes nylon bolts.


Thats just not true - I've made a lot of the 'small parts', including both the main bolts in a Chorus rear mech, the main hanger bolt in a Daytona mech & most of the steel parts for Chorus brake calipers. I used 7000 series Aluminium & copied the steel parts exactly. I had them anodised locally & have'nt had a problem with any of them in two years. The Chorus rear mech now weighs 187grams & the brake calipers a total of 306g so I'm right in Record territory at a much lower cost.
What do you mean "Most alu bolts can be replaced with light alloy ones" - Alu bolts are light alloy!

fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

Thats just not true


Well it is true but it seems that you know what you're doing anyway.
Would you advise anyone to just replace the manufacturer's steel bolts with alu ones?
I know I wouldn't, hence the qualifier.

Alu bolts are light alloy!


Of course they're not. Alu alloys exist in innumerable incarnations, think 60xx to 70xx range for instance. And then there's just plain aluminum out of which nuts and bolts can be machined too....
Again, you'd need some technical background to tell which is which anyhow.

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

DGSdale
Posts: 100
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:26 pm

by DGSdale

fdegrove wrote

Of course they're not. Alu alloys exist in innumerable incarnations, think 60xx to 70xx range for instance. And then there's just plain aluminum out of which nuts and bolts can be machined too....
Again, you'd need some technical background to tell which is which anyhow.


Nuts & bolts are never made out of plain (pure) Aluminium. Pure Aluminium is as soft as sh*t. Nothing, as far as bikes are concerned, & very little anywhere else (except maybe medium to high voltage cables) is made of pure Aluminium. You are absolutely right to say Aluminium has innumerable alloys & thats exactly what light alloy bolts are - mostly 7075, I believe.

DGSdale
Posts: 100
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:26 pm

by DGSdale

fdegrove wrote

Would you advise anyone to just replace the manufacturer's steel bolts with alu ones?
I know I wouldn't, hence the qualifier.


No, absolutely not - it really depends mostly on the application & diameter of any particular screw. I certainly wouldn't use Aluminium alloy screws in a h/bar stem to clamp the bars for example. Obviously a bit of common sense is needed but there are a lot of cases where steel can be substituted for Aluminium alloy perfectly safely. Look at the SRP range of replacement screws/bolts for steel parts in Shimano products, its just a shame they don't do the same for Campy. I use a Hershey Racing seat post clamp which uses an M6 socket cap screw, I've replaced the screw for a gold anodised Al. alloy screw tightened to 6Nm (Cannondale frame/ ITM Millenium post) - No problems at all but I would use a grade 5 Titanium screw if it was an M5.

fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

You are absolutely right to say Aluminium has innumerable alloys & thats exactly what light alloy bolts are - mostly 7075, I believe


Yes but....Not everyone Alu alloy bolt is:
A) Lighter than the one already present.
B) Stiff enough to carry the load the original one was chosen for.
C) There's a real chance that the unwary comes back from the hardware with a lighter alu bolt that is potentially dangerous.

A) B) and C) imply that some prior knowledge of the stresses put under even the most normal uses of brakes, der hangers, pulleys and whatever else is in there exist in order to avoid accidents.

This is a form open to the general public, next thing you know some 12 year old may go out and swap out all kinds of stuff on his/her bike in attempt to make it lighter....And break a leg or worse soon after that because of it.

Nuts & bolts are never made out of plain (pure) Aluminium.


I assume most people here know that, I do.

As said before, you seem knowledgeable enough to know what can and can not be done but don't automatically assume everyone else does...
Heck, you even use a torque wrench...
Not all repairshops even have one, those that do don't necessarily use one......

Why not ctc SRP and ask their advise regarding Campa? Surely they nust have been asked before?

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

by Weenie


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