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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 6:32 pm 
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@DaveS

I'd prefer not to use the SRAM 10 powerloc because apparently it's only meant to be used once. The KMC link might be better but I thought you had reported the KMC Missing Link X 10 speed for Campy 10/KMC X10SL chain isn't of suitable inner width for Campy 11 speed?

EDIT: I don't know anything about KMC's product and nomenclature. Are the KMC Missing Link X 10 and the KMC Missing Link 10C different? Which will work best with Campy 11?


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Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 6:32 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 7:42 pm 
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The link for a genuine KMC chain is wider across the inside than the special version made for the Campy 10 chain. I use the narrower version for the Campy 10 chain. Ribble sells it. It will produce about .012 inch of side clearance when new, which is kind of sloppy, but that's how KMC tends to make their links and chains - with more side clearance than some brands. I've had no problems with the KMC link, but as I said earlier, I don't intend to use a lot of them. I've got one on my winter bike, since the chain gets dirty quickly and I want to be able to clean it whenever I want.

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:06 pm 
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With all the money I spent on SR the idea of using a questionable quick chainlink to streach some extra life out of a chain to save a fee bucks is not how I would best use my time. Having had a chain break on me once was enough. Lucky for me I'm still able to have kids. I have used those links that were the proper spec for the specific chain I was using. Until such is available for 11 speed chains and you need to save money go Chorus :beerchug:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:18 pm 
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Great. Thanks for clarifying. I was just looking at those on and C11 chains on Ribble's site. As long as they do the job and don't click on the cassette they'll be acceptable for the time being.


http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000[/quote]


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 8:30 pm 
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If you want to get real picky, even a KMC 11 speed link won't be made to fit a Campy chain, but certainly should fit it better than any 10 speed model. As a mechanical engineer, I'm smart enough to assess the risk of using a less than perfect fitting master link.

A lot of people have been riding with the same type of mismatch by using the wrong 10 speed link with their SRAM or Campy chains. The current Wipperman connex link is often advertised (by vendors, not Wipperman) as suitable for all 10 speed chains, but it's not. It fits Wipperman, Shimano or KMC with the proper side clearance, but not SRAM or Campy.

Some people made an even worse mistake by using the old 10S1 link on a Shimano chain, since it came from a Wipperman chain that was called "Shimano compatible" back then. That link produced little or no side clearance and some people popped the heads off the pins. It's better to have a little more side clearance than none at all. The same thing occurs if a SRAM 10 powerloc is used on a Shimano chain - little or no side clearance. People still do it becasue they don't know any better.

I'm already using Chorus chains and cassettes due to the ridiculous priced asked for the SR cassette and the fact that it lasts half as long. I might spend $225 for a Chorus cassette and three chains to get 12,000 miles. Two SR cassettes and 6 chains would be be about $860. Take your pick.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:06 pm 
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@rustychain

I already use a Chorus cassette and plan on rotating in some new C11 chains. The difference in cost between the connection options isn't so much of a big deal. The problem with CN-RE500 pins is the fact that C11/R11 chains can only be safely connected twice. Getting maximum use of the 3 chains and cassette involves rotating them so they are each used 3 or 4 times.

I suppose I could use Campy pins for now and hope that KMC or Wipperman have 11spd links (which won't be perfect for Campy either) readily available on the market by the time the opportunity to reconnect with Campy pins runs out. On the other hand, if the inside width of the KMC Campy 10 link is reasonably close and it clears the cassette it shouldn't pose a safety risk if it is installed correctly.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:24 pm 
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Seems to me that the compromise might be a rotation where you use a new chain with a new cassette for 2,000 miles, then:

- swap to another new chain for another 2,000 miles
- use the first chain for another 2,000 miles
- use the second chain for another 2,000 miles

This should cost under $180 when using Chrous 11 chain and cassette (or just over $210 with Record 11 chains and Chorus 11 cassette) and get you easily to 8,000 miles on a Chorus cassette without compromising shifting quality. So bascailly you have at most $210 for just about a year of riding. Not too bad and a good compromise over DaveS's rotation scheme while addressing rustychain's concerns about using non-Campy connectors.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 07, 2010 10:40 pm 
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I trust DaveS's engineering judgments and I can do my own precise measurements with calipers and feeler gauges when I have the KMC connector in my hands.

What's more beneficial about this approach if we see no facts to cause us concern about using a KMC link for Campy 10 spd?


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:08 am 
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Are these the connectors for the Campy 11sp?

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000

Hardly that much more expensive than all the generic ones yes?


My bigger concern is how many times it's acceptable for a chain to be broken. Oh and which tool to use (is the Park one any good? Or will I have to shell out for the Campag original one?)

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:33 am 
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Tinea Pedis wrote:
Are these the connectors for the Campy 11sp?

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000

Hardly that much more expensive than all the generic ones yes?

My bigger concern is how many times it's acceptable for a chain to be broken.



Though the cost of Campy CN-RE500 pins isn't a big issue the chain can only be pinned twice which means it can be broken only once.


Tinea Pedis wrote:
Oh and which tool to use (is the Park one any good? Or will I have to shell out for the Campag original one?)


You either need this: http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... 0000000000

Or a regular chain tool to insert the pin AND a Park CT-11 rivet peening tool: http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... item=CT-11

I have the Campagnolo tool. It's quite nice.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:55 am 
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At for that occor - might get the Campag tool as I don't know anyone aorund my parts in Oz who sells Park tools...

And have to say, I'd be pretty happy with 4000 miles out of each chain. That's over a years worth of riding for that bike. Even longer should I use 3 chains.


Ta to yourself and Dave for all the help. Now all I have to do is work out how to install a chain.

Please, no laughing! :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 2:58 am 
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anybody tried the 11-speed athena cassette yet?

should be much cheaper , at a weight penalty of about ~50g more


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:07 am 
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I was under the impression that it was in fact a Chorus cassette?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:08 am 
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Follow the instructions, measure three times; cut once. :wink:


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Posted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:08 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:17 am 
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Athena gets a Chorus cassette and chain.

http://www.campagnolo.com/jsp/en/groupset/catid_13.jsp


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