SRAM Red Rear Derailleur Tuning

[voodoojar]

I use a Delrin Pivot bolt as long as you have a really good torque wrench and only tighten it to like 3nm they work well dont drop weight. my RD is down to 110 now with that addition. I'm running Delrin on the bike I ride to work right now to test it out while I'm building my new bike so far so good.

[gumgardner]

These bolts don't drop weight?

On another note, I see that someone replaced the inner plate but I don't see how you would remove SRAM one. Anyone else try this?

[voodoojar]

The Delrin Pivot bolt dropped 3 grams for me.

[gumgardner]

DDtung, could you take a picture of your cable clamp up close? Im having a hard time lightening this thing up anymore without really getting greedy with the dremel.

What kind of pulleys are these?

http://www.xx-light-bikes.de/shop/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Which one is the right one to buy for the rear dérailleur? I don't speak whatever they are speaking

[voodoojar]

Im not sure what exactly you're looking for.

for bolts I run something like this but put the bolt kit together myself and use nylon for the m4 adjusting bolts. http://www.xx-light-bikes.de/shop/pd-1308300691.htm?categoryId=253

For pivot bolt I use this but when I email the guy I asked for Delrin instead of Alloy. I also have a couple alloy incase Delrin doesnt last. http://www.afcbike.com/tr/?p=110

For Jockey Wheel I use this. I put teflon tape on the thin bolt instead of a spacer. http://www.afcbike.com/tr/?p=301

[gumgardner]

Perfect response. Thanks. My rear dérailleur is coming along nicely. I'll post pics soon.

[madmole]

I've had a set of the KNCN pulleys on my mountain bike for 2 years now, still absolutely fine and thats using mud and gunk as a lubricant. No visible wear just a little of the anodising worn off the ends of the teeth. Bearings are easily replacable if needed

I supect they will last a lot longer than the normal plastic ones

[bura]

I've had a set of the KNCN pulleys on my mountain bike for 2 years now, still absolutely fine and thats using mud and gunk as a lubricant. No visible wear just a little of the anodising worn off the ends of the teeth. Bearings are easily replacable if needed

I supect they will last a lot longer than the normal plastic ones

Which are interacting with your chain. And do you think the alloy pulleys will do this better and will not cause a higher chain wear than plastic ones?
If this is WW and I can shave half of the weight of the alloy pulleys with plastic ones I will use the plastic ones.
Sorry to all that this goes slightly off topic but could not resist.

[gumgardner]

I use a Delrin Pivot bolt as long as you have a really good torque wrench and only tighten it to like 3nm they work well dont drop weight. my RD is down to 110 now with that addition. I'm running Delrin on the bike I ride to work right now to test it out while I'm building my new bike so far so good.

How hard was it to remove the standard red pivot bolt and reinstall this one?
And once it's installed, does it last?

Thanks for your help

[voodoojar]

It's really easy to remove. I used a tiny flat head screwdriver to pop off the ring clip and immediately lost it. It's ok because I suspect it's only job is making everything stay together before the RD is installed. Anyway I have no idea how many miles to expect out of the Delrin part just be really careful tightening it, like 3nm and it's good. I used some thermoplatic threadlock on it as well.

[gumgardner]

Thanks.

Here's another issue I've run into...
When installing the btp pulley wheels if I tighten it to the mech cage even at a normal torque it doesn't spin. The only way it spins freely is if I barely tighten the bolt. I used loctite but I don't know if I should just torque it down tighter and maybe after a while they'll loosen up? Any suggestions?  I'm using SRAM red.

[bura]

Thanks.

Here's another issue I've run into...
When installing the btp pulley wheels if I tighten it to the mech cage even at a normal torque it doesn't spin. The only way it spins freely is if I barely tighten the bolt. I used loctite but I don't know if I should just torque it down tighter and maybe after a while they'll loosen up? Any suggestions?  I'm using SRAM red.

This can happen if you have these http://www.b-t-p.de/B-T-P_Team/Produkte ... dchen.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
because these have only washers and no caps like OEM,KCNC or AFC.
Pulley dust caps act like a stop because they press against each other in the middle of the bearing hole or have a slight spline inside the cap which pushes against the outer cage of the bearings not pressing onto the seals causing the bearings stop .
Washers like BTP uses them do this if the cage is tightened onto them and I can not justify 100 US Dollar for pullyeys which on top are not the lightest 10T out there.
But you can use your pulleys without tightening your cage to press against bearings or the washers to press against bearings using Loctite like you have done.
Let a slight play there of less than 0.5mms and you will be all right with Sram Red.It will not loosen up and do not omit to wrap some Teflon tape around the thinner Sram bolt like voodoojar did .

[gumgardner]

Luckily I got them on eBay for only $50. They spin like crazy if they aren't over tightened. Maybe I'll try the Teflon...or just switch over to my fibre-lytes and lose a gram

[bura]

Luckily I got them on eBay for only $50. They spin like crazy if they aren't over tightened. Maybe I'll try the Teflon...or just switch over to my fibre-lytes and lose a gram

Yes this is a good idea. A better one is to spend 40 bucks for 10T jockey wheels which are even 2.5gram lighter than the BTP pair.

[UpFromOne]

gotta love exploded drawings!

regarding the teflon on the bolt comment a few posts up, what exact action are you talking about? putting teflon around the bolt shank?