As I've now found out these Nokon shift cables aren't such a great match for older style Shimano shifters as the cable doesn't run in a smooth arc as standard cable outer's do. Has any body come up with a good solution to this? I'm using red outers on my partners Cervelo RS and she ain't impressed. She's a virgo too so super fussy with how things look.

I had the idea to use clear heat wrap on the sections from the shifter to the first cable guide only. Weight is not a primary concern, looks are.

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08 Cervelo R3, Sram Red, Zipp 101's=

You'll need to route them under the bartape like these:





It doesn't look as clean, but it'll solve the sagging problem

Thanks. Don't think she's too keen on that look... but I'll show her tonight.

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08 Cervelo R3, Sram Red, Zipp 101's=

Same here.. but it grew on me. Good luck.

If you want them to work right, you need to sag. Tucking them in did not work for me.

I've the same problems with Nokon on the shift cables. On my Litespeed i've routed the Nokons like a standard shift-cable. Looks pretty ugly with all those kinks in the cable and shifting isn't that great as Shimano housing. On my BMC i've routed them as shown above(under the bartape). Looks are better and cleaner but shifting is still not great. I think it's because too much friction in the S-curve at the bar. I'm thinking of trying the Alligator I-links for shifting. The Nokons for brakes are great. It increased stopping power.

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*Light is beautiful*
BMC SLC01 5900g ... Litespeed Vortex 6300g ... Merida Carbon Lite 7000g ... Velocite Selene 8000g ... Argon18 E114 +/-8500g ... Trek 1500 9500g

Vertebrae housing doesn't sag as it includes the outer covering.

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Vertebrae. Precision braking and shifting.

Oh yeah...the vertebrae system! I just made an order so i'll give them a try for the shift cables. I'll let you know how it performs against other systems. But i'll use them with Powercordz 1.2mm.

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*Light is beautiful*
BMC SLC01 5900g ... Litespeed Vortex 6300g ... Merida Carbon Lite 7000g ... Velocite Selene 8000g ... Argon18 E114 +/-8500g ... Trek 1500 9500g

Several tips
1) Under the bar tape - if you don't leave enough of a loop before putting the cable under the bar tape, you may find yourself without brakes if you never adjust them (as the brakes wear down, you have to pull the lever further and a tight loop will limit how far you can pull the lever - sorry rubbish description - open up your brakes and you'll see what I mean!).
2) In front of head tube - twist 3/4 of the cables (other than front brake) together on the way down from the bars to keep them together and for the clean look.
3) Rear derallieur - a small loop of thread allows you to tie the cable to the seat stay thus stopping it flopping sideways.

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Dimples: Laminar flow separates more easily from a surface than turbulent air. Delayed separation reduces drag. A groove perpendicular to the flow triggers laminar to turbulent conversion. A spinning object uses dimples so an edge always faces the flow.

I've just had a look at the (your?) website and the outer coating appears to be nothing more than heat wrap just like I originally suggested as a solution for my nokon cables. It even says that the DIY method requires a heat gun.

Do you guys realise how cheap and easy to use heat wrap is? I'm going try to get some clear stuff and give it a try.

If it is your website it would have been nice of you to suggest this as an option rather than simply plugging your own product.

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08 Cervelo R3, Sram Red, Zipp 101's=