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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:04 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Denmark
"Mavic IsoPulse" LOL! :roll:

Just typical Mavic marketing bulls***, trying to coin a fancy phrase for a common sense lacing technique, that has been used for decades!!

Not to disregard your input WheresWaldo, because you certainly have a point! I would never buy a wheelset with NDS radial, as it just doesn't make sense. And the 32h rear wheel I recently built, has DS x1 heads-in and NDS x3. With a stronger rim and fewer spokes, I would have gone radial DS, but I think x1 is better with that many spokes.

Anyhow, I guess this is OT for this thread, and really belongs in the wheelbuilding thread...


Also: Everhard and StefanG>>>> Would love to hear more about your Farsports SVT-T5 rims. There is a thread dedicated to just these rims, that could really use some actual hands-on experience info from you: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71057&hilit=lacing+50mm+tubs&start=60

:)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 9:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:52 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Netherlands
Illuminate wrote:
pino76 wrote:
I build a set of farsport 20 mm tubular rims and soul prodigy hubs. the front wheel was no problem at all but i had trouble with the stiffnes of the rear wheel.
I built this wheel with 288mm dt comp. (2x ds) and 288 mm dt rev. (radial nds). after the first ride i noticed a crack in the rim at the valve hole. I think this was because the rear was flexi as hell :evil: the rim is too light for rear built.
tension was 210 kg (ds) and 70 kg (nds)
I am 85 kg.... 8)

What should I do? build the rear with 38mm rim, or order a heavyer (more durable) 20 mm rim??


Pino, i found these sets of articles to be quite useful and well written when considering lacing patterns. The linked other chapters are also quite interesting.

http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/lacingsr.htm

Your aim should be to even out those spoke tensions to bring down the DS tension and up the NDS
-less chance of a spoke pulling through on the DS when the wheel is loaded
-less chance of the spokes completely unloading on the NDS when they're at the bottom of the wheel's cycle (which leads to a. increased spoke fatigue and b. spokes that lose tension easily (unless the thread is threadlocked with linseed or akin) and therefore an unstable wheel)


All the best, I


thanks for the link. :thumbup:

I relace the wheel with radial (ds) and cross 2x (nds) and see if it makes any difference.
Is a 38mm rim a better choice for the rear? :noidea:


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Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 9:57 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 29, 2010 1:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2010 4:18 am
Posts: 351
Location: Australia
To be honest, I would run it by some other experienced wheel builders on the forum to get their opinion. Zen... Wheelbuilder...

If you do undertake the build, would it be possible to keep us updated with the new tensions and also wheel durability (probably over the in WB thread).

Many thanks!
I


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 3:15 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:44 pm
Posts: 8
I did just post in the 50mm thread - as I said there nothing to report yet, I have just got the rims, they look good will report more when I start building them up.

That said I wish they would make an 80mm or 90mm deep rim in the 'light version'... Would love to build a set for the tt/ bike.
E.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:46 am 
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Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:59 pm
Posts: 35
Did the majority of folks who got the 20mm rims build them up themselves, have a local do it, or send them away to get built?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 31, 2009 5:52 am
Posts: 34
I built up 2 sets of 20mm tubulars- for myself and a friend. With Soul Prodigy hubs and sapim cx rays- 20h radial front and 24h radial and 2x rear the weights came in at 1020-1030 gm. After 400km on mine I am impressed with them. I weigh 75kg and they are plenty stiff for my moderate power! The hubs roll very well and the wheels only have needed a slight retension after 100km and that has been on mainly rough chip seal roads.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 11:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 8:59 pm
Posts: 35
anyone tried these rims http://www.farsports.cn/ViewProduct.aspx?id=577


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 10:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:44 pm
Posts: 8
Whoopsie - how did you lace the rear? I've been debating how I'm going to do mine - same wheels but they are 50mm vs 20mm. I've read my way thru this whole thread and the wheel-building thread (wow, lots to digest, and I'm sure I didn't get it all!) and after being diverted to a huge number of great pages I'm leaning towards doing a half-crow's foot/2cross (ds/nds) as that sounds like the strongest wheel I could build - and it looks good to! :)

What are peoples thought on doing that pattern? (maybe I should have posted this in the wheel-building thread...!)

Thanks,
E.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2007 5:56 pm
Posts: 986
pino76 wrote:
I build a set of farsport 20 mm tubular rims and soul prodigy hubs. the front wheel was no problem at all but i had trouble with the stiffnes of the rear wheel.
I built this wheel with 288mm dt comp. (2x ds) and 288 mm dt rev. (radial nds). after the first ride i noticed a crack in the rim at the valve hole. I think this was because the rear was flexi as hell :evil: the rim is too light for rear built.
tension was 210 kg (ds) and 70 kg (nds)
I am 85 kg.... 8)

What should I do? build the rear with 38mm rim, or order a heavyer (more durable) 20 mm rim??



Do carbon rims use higher spoke tensions???
I've only ever built 'normal' wheelsets, like DA hubs and Reflex rims....
You mention a drive side tension of 210. Isn't that way over normal?? I thought normal drive side tension on a rear wheel was more like 120, and 60-70 for the drive side...
Thx


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:18 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:19 am
Posts: 630
Location: Brisbane, Oz
addicted wrote:
You mention a drive side tension of 210. Isn't that way over normal?? I thought normal drive side tension on a rear wheel was more like 120, and 60-70 for the drive side...
Thx

Obviously a typo.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 5:34 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 05, 2007 2:02 pm
Posts: 322
Sadly, it wasn't a typo.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:10 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:19 am
Posts: 630
Location: Brisbane, Oz
Ah yes, the Soul Prodigy hubs require a 3:1 spoke tension ratio


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 5:16 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2010 6:25 pm
Posts: 44
Is it really true that the soul hubs require a 3:1 tension ratio?
Can this be modified with heads out or different lacing patterns? What tension ratio would be achieved?

What tension in the DS and NDS were used in the presented builds?

Best regards,

Filipe Dias


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:26 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:19 am
Posts: 3
Where do you guys buy Archtek rims?

On ebay?


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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 3:26 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2009 9:04 pm
Posts: 95
Location: Denmark
No, direct from Archteks: http://archteks.en.alibaba.com/
Just ordered 6 rims from them.

I don't think their rims are sold on Ebay.

:)


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