Sub 1000g wheelset for sub US$1000? - Ride report p12

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bin31z
Posts: 15
Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:13 am

by bin31z

I'm planning on building a pair of these cheap hoops as well and I was wondering if you guys could help me out with some questions.

1. Soul Prodigy V3 hubs, I've seen them recommended here multiple times. Anyone have any personal experience with them?

2. I'm trying to decide between sub 1000 gram 20mm tubulars or sub 1200 gram 38mm tubulars. Is the aero benefit of the 38mm rim worth the 200 additional grams.

3. DT Swiss revolution spokes? Yay or Nay

4. Black hub with gold nipples or blue hub with blue nipples?

Thanks guys, this is my first post.

xnavalav8r
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:09 pm

by xnavalav8r

I built the 20mm tubular rims with the American Classic Micro-58 and RD-205 hubs. I used 20 radially laced 15g spokes on the front and 24 15g spokes 2x on the drive side and radial on the nds in back. I am 5'10" tall and weight about 160 pounds. I'm having no trouble with this combination. Incidently, I'm riding a pair of AC hubs on my mtn bike that are nearly 20 years old. They are still using the original bearings. Admittedly I have taken good care of the hubs but never expected them to last so long. I have never encountered a failed AC hub which is why I was so happy to use them for my build. That said, I know some people here aren't fans but my personal opinion is they are a vocal minority. Let's face it, we cyclists don't typically devote a lot of talk/type to what works, we usually bitch about what doesn't... it's in our nature. I'm as guilty as the next guy.

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soulbike
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by soulbike

Here's my take on this topic.

Front- 363g
Rear- 551g
Total- 914g.

20/24. Made with our Prodigy V3 hubs with steel bearings. Alloy nipples and Brass RDS. Would be sub 900g with ceramics and full alloy nipples.

Front

Image

Rear

Image

xnavalav8r
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:09 pm

by xnavalav8r

Nice!

gilesharrison
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Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 6:44 pm

by gilesharrison

Nice. Are you selling these wheels? If so, do you know what they will cost?

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nickf
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by nickf

gilesharrison wrote:Nice. Are you selling these wheels? If so, do you know what they will cost?

What he said.

bin31z
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Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:13 am

by bin31z

Need some help guys...I've only used clinchers in training and races so far. I see 2 problems with building up a super light carbon tubular set of hoops.

1) There's a huge selection of very high quality and cheap clinchers. Based on a test, ride comfort and rolling resistance in these high quality clinchers is better than any tubular can offer. So I'm at a loss at what set of tubular will be good for training and racing like the GP4000S clincher tires are.

2) I've seen that some manufacturers have a max weight of around 190 for light 38mm carbon rims. I'm 170 so could that spell disaster if I hit a big pothole?

I train a decent amount depending on my schedule (100 miles a week usually), and I don't know if I should use the carbon wheels to train or use it only as a race day wheel.

520 Dan
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by 520 Dan

The "tests" you talk about with ride quality and rolling resistance are done on drum rollers and don't reflect real world situations. Ride tubulars yourself and see what feels faster and more comfortable. I won't turn this into a tubulars vs clinchers debate, there are plenty of those. But there is nothing definitive from any type of test that is for sure.

roadie
Posts: 106
Joined: Mon Sep 11, 2006 9:45 pm

by roadie

I noticed a massive improvement in ride quality when I switched from high end clinchers to this wheelset with tubulars. My clinchers were very light (AC sprint350s with Ultremos and light tubes) but these shaved off almost a pound! Better riding and lots lighter for not much $$. Best upgrade so far.

dmotoguy
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by dmotoguy

bin31z wrote:Need some help guys...I've only used clinchers in training and races so far. I see 2 problems with building up a super light carbon tubular set of hoops.

1) There's a huge selection of very high quality and cheap clinchers. Based on a test, ride comfort and rolling resistance in these high quality clinchers is better than any tubular can offer. So I'm at a loss at what set of tubular will be good for training and racing like the GP4000S clincher tires are.

2) I've seen that some manufacturers have a max weight of around 190 for light 38mm carbon rims. I'm 170 so could that spell disaster if I hit a big pothole?

I train a decent amount depending on my schedule (100 miles a week usually), and I don't know if I should use the carbon wheels to train or use it only as a race day wheel.


get GP4000 tubulars if you like their clinchers, your weight is fine, and no problem riding them 100 miles a week.. the wheels aren't going to wear out ;)

gilesharrison
Posts: 226
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by gilesharrison

Not much point in training on your carbon tubular wheels though. I use some basic clincher wheels for training. They're heavier, so you work harder in training, and it always feels better when you switch to your nice wheels for racing. Gives you that little psychological lift!

dmotoguy
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by dmotoguy

gilesharrison wrote:Not much point in training on your carbon tubular wheels though.


counterpoint, know what you race.. if you dont spend tons of time riding carbon tubs you won't be used to their idiosyncrasies.
Plus, why spend the money on nice race wheels to only use them a few times a month.. they are way too much fun for that :)

xnavalav8r
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2008 12:09 pm

by xnavalav8r

This thread is going way off topic. I'm pretty sure there are tubular vs. clincher threads elsewhere on the forum.

dmotoguy
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by dmotoguy

come on man..

a few more weeks and this topic will be hopping with tons of new builds and all will be well.
:mrgreen:

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Frankie - B
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by Frankie - B

Please keep it on topic guys. tubbie vs clinchers debates are already widespread.

Thanks
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