Sub 1000g wheelset for sub US$1000? - Ride report p12

[jwilliams]

Can you define heat up for me. Just asking because I burned up a set of ec90 slx on Palomar Mt in San Diego, Final Stage of the Tour of California 09

[stella-azzurra]

i struggle to hold speeds over 28mph, even when tucked in the draft. i wonder it is is due to the lack of initial or the shallow depth of the wheels, cant blame the hubs as they are very smooth.

Errm you're joking right

[athletic91]

Pls note i was on the DA c50 before this wheel

@jwilliams
Heat up when i brake to stop at a traffic light, moderate braking force

@stella
Well they felt that it couldnt hold speed comapred to the c50

[jwilliams]

Thanks I would destroy these wheels!!! I was so tempted to buy them, but last second placed an order with ax lightness after the random weights and service. I push my bike to far to have a wheel I can't trust.

[StefanG]

Post revival time... Hi all I've been lurking for a while, and now finally time to post up. I've just ordered a pair of 50mm rims from http://www.farsports.cn - they have a regular and light version I went with the light one's which are quoted as being approx 320g each. Along with that I've ordered the Soul Prodigy V3 hubs which should be on their way to me now as well.. Once I've got both I'll order spokes, haven't made my mind of between the Sapim and the DT Swiss aero spokes...
I know this set won't make it under the 1000g mark but hopefully not too far off while keeping it budget concious.

If anyone has built up a set of wheels using the same components please let me know if you have any issues, comments etc.
E.

I've just built up the front wheel (farsports 50mm tubular, light version, front rim came in at 315g) with one of the ebay non-branded hubs (78g for front) with Sapim CX-Rays. Completed wheel came to ~480g (without tire). Just glued on tubular tire, planning to take for a spin later today, so can't comment on ride quality yet. Waiting for spokes to arrive for rear wheel build.

[Denavelo]

If you weight anywhere between 175-183, would it be best to stay away from 20/24 low clincher style wheel builds? Is 24/28 the more reliable option?

[pino76]

I build a set of farsport 20 mm tubular rims and soul prodigy hubs. the front wheel was no problem at all but i had trouble with the stiffnes of the rear wheel.
I built this wheel with 288mm dt comp. (2x ds) and 288 mm dt rev. (radial nds). after the first ride i noticed a crack in the rim at the valve hole. I think this was because the rear was flexi as hell the rim is too light for rear built.
tension was 210 kg (ds) and 70 kg (nds)
I am 85 kg....

What should I do? build the rear with 38mm rim, or order a heavyer (more durable) 20 mm rim??

[Gregorio]

@athletic WTF...heats up stopping at a light? So how would you ride down hill with twists and turns? Or do you not ride this light weight wheel set in the hills?

[Illuminate]

I build a set of farsport 20 mm tubular rims and soul prodigy hubs. the front wheel was no problem at all but i had trouble with the stiffnes of the rear wheel.
I built this wheel with 288mm dt comp. (2x ds) and 288 mm dt rev. (radial nds). after the first ride i noticed a crack in the rim at the valve hole. I think this was because the rear was flexi as hell the rim is too light for rear built.
tension was 210 kg (ds) and 70 kg (nds)
I am 85 kg....

What should I do? build the rear with 38mm rim, or order a heavyer (more durable) 20 mm rim??

Pino, i found these sets of articles to be quite useful and well written when considering lacing patterns. The linked other chapters are also quite interesting.

http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/lacingsr.htm

Your aim should be to even out those spoke tensions to bring down the DS tension and up the NDS
-less chance of a spoke pulling through on the DS when the wheel is loaded
-less chance of the spokes completely unloading on the NDS when they're at the bottom of the wheel's cycle (which leads to a. increased spoke fatigue and b. spokes that lose tension easily (unless the thread is threadlocked with linseed or akin) and therefore an unstable wheel)


All the best, I

[WheresWaldo]

I have read these pages in the past and wondered why more people do not build like the Mavic IsoPulse as the tensions even out faster. Is it simply because we are creatures of habit and don't want to change something that works? Is it because we feel that non drive side flanges aren't strong enough? Is modern hub design sacrificing material on the drive side flange to prevent radial lacing?

One of the strongest rear wheels I ever built was a Velocity Fusion rim, Ultegra hub, Wheelsmith AE-14, Wheelsmith Alloy nipples, 32 hole, 3x NDS / 2x DS. After nearly 20,000 miles it has never needed to be trued and is still round in four years of service commuting on some nasty Eugene city streets.

I am currently experimenting with a 2x NDS / 1x DS (heads in) wheel to see just how well it holds up. Although I believe in the theory behind IsoPulse I have yet to go "all in" and built radial DS.

[Berg]

"Mavic IsoPulse" LOL!

Just typical Mavic marketing bulls***, trying to coin a fancy phrase for a common sense lacing technique, that has been used for decades!!

Not to disregard your input WheresWaldo, because you certainly have a point! I would never buy a wheelset with NDS radial, as it just doesn't make sense. And the 32h rear wheel I recently built, has DS x1 heads-in and NDS x3. With a stronger rim and fewer spokes, I would have gone radial DS, but I think x1 is better with that many spokes.

Anyhow, I guess this is OT for this thread, and really belongs in the wheelbuilding thread...


Also: Everhard and StefanG>>>> Would love to hear more about your Farsports SVT-T5 rims. There is a thread dedicated to just these rims, that could really use some actual hands-on experience info from you: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71057&hilit=lacing+50mm+tubs&start=60

[pino76]

I build a set of farsport 20 mm tubular rims and soul prodigy hubs. the front wheel was no problem at all but i had trouble with the stiffnes of the rear wheel.
I built this wheel with 288mm dt comp. (2x ds) and 288 mm dt rev. (radial nds). after the first ride i noticed a crack in the rim at the valve hole. I think this was because the rear was flexi as hell the rim is too light for rear built.
tension was 210 kg (ds) and 70 kg (nds)
I am 85 kg....

What should I do? build the rear with 38mm rim, or order a heavyer (more durable) 20 mm rim??

Pino, i found these sets of articles to be quite useful and well written when considering lacing patterns. The linked other chapters are also quite interesting.

http://spokeanwheel.110mb.com/lacingsr.htm

Your aim should be to even out those spoke tensions to bring down the DS tension and up the NDS
-less chance of a spoke pulling through on the DS when the wheel is loaded
-less chance of the spokes completely unloading on the NDS when they're at the bottom of the wheel's cycle (which leads to a. increased spoke fatigue and b. spokes that lose tension easily (unless the thread is threadlocked with linseed or akin) and therefore an unstable wheel)


All the best, I

thanks for the link.

I relace the wheel with radial (ds) and cross 2x (nds) and see if it makes any difference.
Is a 38mm rim a better choice for the rear?

[Illuminate]

To be honest, I would run it by some other experienced wheel builders on the forum to get their opinion. Zen... Wheelbuilder...

If you do undertake the build, would it be possible to keep us updated with the new tensions and also wheel durability (probably over the in WB thread).

Many thanks!
I

[Everhard]

I did just post in the 50mm thread - as I said there nothing to report yet, I have just got the rims, they look good will report more when I start building them up.

That said I wish they would make an 80mm or 90mm deep rim in the 'light version'... Would love to build a set for the tt/ bike.
E.

[Adamd]

Did the majority of folks who got the 20mm rims build them up themselves, have a local do it, or send them away to get built?