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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:36 pm 
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I've broken many chains regularly back in my MTB days (sometimes almost every 2-3 weeks) and since I took up road cycling back in '01, KMC was the only one that held up reasonably. I don't mash the pedals but am known to squeeze out violent bursts of watts regularly.

So I'm running DA7800, sometimes replacing the DA cassette with a KCNC, and I recently broke my KMC X10 SL Gold chain for the second time. This time around due to my derailleur hanger failure. Since my previous X10s also failed before even showing the slightest wear (1500km max), I'm looking for another chain. I temporarily switched to a KMC X10-93 because it was much cheaper but I'm sure that one will break soon enough and I want something more durable! My cassettes and rings are still in good shape and don't even skip after replacing a few chains.

Now I'm looking for something better and preferably in the same weight which is +/- 120g for 114 links.

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Recently I heard about Yaban/YBN but I've never actually seen one, let alone being ridden on a bike. I'm looking at a SL210-G titanium chain
(ti pins?). Apparently they use a special lubricated coating and claim to be noiseless and last twice as long compared to a normal chain (which one?).

Any experiences or recommendations? Just curious...

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:15 pm 
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I don't think parts are that poor nowadays.
You can't really blame the chain if the hangers failed, or is that the hanger failed due to the chain or shifting problems?
To be breaking them so regularly are you sure its not your gear change or maintenance technique??
20 years of riding and racing I've only broke 2; 1 on the mtb, 1 on the road, and to be fair they were beyond the point where i should have changed them.
7900 chains seem to work fine on 7800 so you could try that or Wipperman, but go stainless.

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Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:15 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 2:58 am 
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I had good luck with YBN (Yaban) hollow pin/slotted plate 10 speed chains so far.

I use one on my 9s MTB without problems, and I run another on my 10s road bike also without problems.

I have not had them for that long, so I cannot say how they will hold up over longer distances (I think in total I have about 1000 km on them), but esthetically, they hold up really well. They are both still shiny and very easy to keep clean.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:19 am 
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mythical wrote:
claim to be noiseless and last twice as long compared to a normal chain


Pretty much all chain marketing material claims that.

What you obviously need is a Wippermann, although you may have to make minor adjustments to your cassette etc.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:56 am 
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My experience is that chain failure (with modern chains) is almost always a result of poor installation. Are you reading and following the installation instructions?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 12:57 pm 
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I've never broken a chain... ever :noidea:

but i would have thought that genuine chains from Shimano would be stronger than a gold chain... as gold is not the strongest metal... but maybe it's just a coating...


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 2:12 pm 
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Stats wrote:
gold is not the strongest metal... but maybe it's just a coating...


Fortunately, 'gold' chains are made of Titanium Nitride, which is much stronger than steel :D


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 3:49 pm 
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Titanium nitride is a ceramic material that is used as form of surface hardening treatment and a friction coefficient modifier (it decreases it significantly in some situations).

The chains are still some kind of stainless steel alloy, it is the surface TiN coating that gives the treated components the gold colour.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 4:18 pm 
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Quote:
Now I'm looking for something better and preferably in the same weight which is +/- 120g for 114 links.

Something is definitely wrong with this chain breakage scenario. Being of the Sprinty Fast-twitch specie myself at 90kg , could you post a pic of your thighs also :lol:
Also, guessing that you meant +/-220g on the weight spec.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 5:29 pm 
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LOL! Yeah, 120g is definitely wishful thinking! :lol:

@mitre_tester: I was about to go single-speed had I not bought the KMC X10-93. Such a setup would've definitely been with a wider chain. ;)

Tristan wrote:
My experience is that chain failure (with modern chains) is almost always a result of poor installation. Are you reading and following the installation instructions?
Who read those manuals anyway?! ;) In my 15 years of building exotic bikes there were never any issues with chain install, especially with the Sram's Powerlinks and KMC's Missing Links. Also, the derailleurs are always perfectly adjusted for clean and crisp shifting and upon installation chains always run silent. Install is not the cause. I did break some Sram Powerlinks though. I've not been using Sram chains since. Didn't Sram had a recall on them..?

Back in '04, I tried the Wippermann Connex 10TR Titanium chain, which I found not enough value for money to justify its cost of almost 300 euros.

I dunno what it is why my KMC chains kept on breaking. Possible causes:
- I shift a lot (to keep a steady cadence) and almost always under power. My average cruising speeds are often around 40km/h, sometimes even faster. I also accelerate a lot during rides never doing the same tempo.
- KMC chains are really greasy when purchased. As I hardly do maintenance on my SL Gold chains. When they become dry I have to lube them over and over and they turn black with dirt rather quickly. Most ProTour teams would replace the chain when this occurs.

jekyll man wrote:
You can't really blame the chain if the hangers failed, or is that the hanger failed due to the chain or shifting problems?

The derailleur hanger failure was the result of some heedless idiot knocking my Scott Addict over in passing while I was briefly inside a store. I didn't even see who did it. When riding home, I noticed that my RD didn't shift so well anymore. When I ordered news ones, I kept on riding and it happened to break a few days before I got my replacement hangers in the mail. There were bents in the inner links in 4 places, which otherwise still have a lot of miles life left in it. I'm just really put off by the umpteenth chain failure and now I'm looking for something a bit more bulletproof out there.

I found some info on the Yaban's SL210-G chain. It said:
Quote:
New Material- SFL
SFL means “Self-Lubrication” YBN took two years devoted to explore SFL new material and new treatment in order to offer customers the best chain products. SFL material has awesome Anti-Rust function. It is better than the treatment of surface Titanium Nitride coating and CP coating. Moreover, SFL material is not only extremely smooth, noiseless, easier to clean but also prolonged 100% using life of the chain.
It is not necessary to put oil on the SL210 Titanium chain again after you clean it. Furthermore, SL210 Titanium chain is not only rust proof but withstand the violence of 300 hours Salt Spray Test without rusting. It is extremely light, smooth and noiseless. The Impressive characteristic of SL210 Titanium chain is durability. The using life of SL210 Titanium chain is twice as long as a normal chain (6000~8000k).

Chromium Carbide Surface Treatment - DHA Treatment

Cooperating with Taiwan Chung-Shan Institute of Science & Technology, YBN is using the technology of Chromium Carbide Surface Treatment to increase the hardness of pin surface. Excellent performance can be expected even in adverse conditions, including the presence of abrasive contaminants. Furthermore, DHA pins have excellent protection of rusting. Chromium Carbide Surface treated chain pin is able to prolong chain 300% using life. Chromium Carbide treated chain won’t be elongated easily.
Could be worth a try...

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:29 pm 
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Quote:
- KMC chains are really greasy when purchased. As I hardly do maintenance on my SL Gold chains. When they become dry I have to lube them over and over and they turn black with dirt rather quickly. Most ProTour teams would replace the chain when this occurs.

I've always stripped my new chains with solvent (2x to make sure no greasy/sticky residue remains) and then lubricate/saturate with my favorite chain lube, usually ProLink http://www.progoldmfr.com/index.html and allow to completely air dry for a day so that no solvent-carrier remains. Then give the chain a very thorough wipe down to remove excess lube and mount the new chain. This has worked very well for me. Stays fairly clean, very well lubed and shifts nicely. Re-lube is a snap; done on bike, drip on/wipe down/repeat.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:04 pm 
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Nothing of value to add here except "haaaaaa."


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:51 pm 
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Did you try CN-7800/7801?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2009 9:48 am 
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Reliable equipment, installed properly and lubed. Big guy, shifts under power, chains break.

I think that sums up this thread?

The obvious answer is to shift under power *less* to be kinder to your equipment.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:55 pm 
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Mythical....did you get it? Is it any good?

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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:55 pm 


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