Weightweenism for Paris-Roubaix?
Moderator: robbosmans
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how'd you build your bike assuming you are riding in the Paris-Roubaix
share your ideas!
share your ideas!
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the first thing that would go would be the SLR saddle, assuming of course that I would like to be able to urinate and have children in the future
a gooooood padded seat!
a gooooood padded seat!
I would put some different wheels (maybe 32x CXP or Open Pros w 25mm tires), change my bars to my TTT Prima 199, put my olds Rolls saddle back on, put on a Record 53/39 instead of compact, and go for a nice, long ride...
"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri
cyclo-cross frame (longer rear end )
fizik pogio or rolls classic.
hugi 240 hubs older one (not the s version) cx-ray spokes mavic paris roubaix tublar rim (24 mm) , vitoria pave 24 mm tube
campa record
itm millenium steer and stem 140mm inst. of 130mm
fizik pogio or rolls classic.
hugi 240 hubs older one (not the s version) cx-ray spokes mavic paris roubaix tublar rim (24 mm) , vitoria pave 24 mm tube
campa record
itm millenium steer and stem 140mm inst. of 130mm
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Sat Jan 15, 2005 6:27 pm
frame: longer wheel base and comfortable, more upright. Maybe even carbon..
Wheels: 25mm Tubs!! Alu rims with a good higher spoke count. Not pumped up too hard.
Bars and stem. NOT carbon.
Saddle Fizik Arione. and carbon seatpost.
chainset. Dura ace. Very workmanlike.
Gell bar tape. Gel mits and well padded backside.
Wheels: 25mm Tubs!! Alu rims with a good higher spoke count. Not pumped up too hard.
Bars and stem. NOT carbon.
Saddle Fizik Arione. and carbon seatpost.
chainset. Dura ace. Very workmanlike.
Gell bar tape. Gel mits and well padded backside.
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- Posts: 1288
- Joined: Thu Nov 04, 2004 4:05 pm
Dr.Dos wrote:I'd train a bit more and gain some muscle weight...
In a race the strongest rider wins, although WW lamers might think the bike really makes a difference.
who you calling a lamer?
I would look for a Ti frame with my normal position, but longer wheelbase
36h 3(4?)x Mavic SSC rims on 240s(CK?) hubs with DT Revs with Dugast Paris/Roubaix silks
Swap my Std Flite saddle for a Max Flite
Swap the WCS stem for a Thomson
Replace the 42t inner ring for a 47
Pretty much as standard otherwise
36h 3(4?)x Mavic SSC rims on 240s(CK?) hubs with DT Revs with Dugast Paris/Roubaix silks
Swap my Std Flite saddle for a Max Flite
Swap the WCS stem for a Thomson
Replace the 42t inner ring for a 47
Pretty much as standard otherwise
Success is how far you you bounce back up after being knocked down
why the bigger rings? wouldn't the compact and smaller rings work better since you can keep spinning but not torque out the rear wheel. it's the same in MTB, my coach tells me to keep a steady cadence over the slow technical section and keeping grip is more important. like when someone goes down in front of you which plenty do in the hell of the north.
On a really rough road bumpiness will affect a higher rpm more than a lower rpm.
If you are riding at the higher rpm then the bumps are closer in frequency to the cadance, and with the bike bouncing around the pedal stroke typically ends up very choppy. As opposed to the MtB situation, the grip on a slipery road is generally greater than that which will cause wheelspin.
Also there is a much greater speed than on a MtB especailly on a techy climb, and the road is flat.
If you are riding at the higher rpm then the bumps are closer in frequency to the cadance, and with the bike bouncing around the pedal stroke typically ends up very choppy. As opposed to the MtB situation, the grip on a slipery road is generally greater than that which will cause wheelspin.
Also there is a much greater speed than on a MtB especailly on a techy climb, and the road is flat.
Success is how far you you bounce back up after being knocked down
On rough stutter bump sections I also like to push a relatively heavier gear with an MTB. As mentioned by Cyco it's more stable and gives better overall speed average using less effort.
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