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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 13, 2017 4:27 pm
Posts: 100
Hello all,

I'm trying to do the best I can with the creating the cleanest look I can on the front of my bike. I dont want to trim any more length on the cables here as Ive taken off enough, but hoping you can all give some advice on how to make it look nicer. Please know the zip ties are just place holders. What am I doing wrong, it looks messy to me? Any help appreciated, thanks.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:50 pm 
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Posts: 1171
Location: CO
I'm not sure what could be done to enhance the aesthetics. The brake cables are hydraulic cables so they cannot be altered easily. And you already have only the rear shift cable. Most other bikes have a total of four cables on a mechanical shift system. If you go with eTap you can eliminate one more cable but that an expensive method to just make the cables look better.


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Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:50 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 11:55 pm 
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Posts: 194
Sram eTap will eliminate the shifter cables.

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2015 Trek Emonda SLR Project One - Red eTap - Zipp 303 - 6.48kg
2016 Cannondale SuperX Rival CX1 - 9.29kg


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 12:29 am 
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Posts: 100
Thanks guys, if it’s the best possible set up, I can live with it. It’s all
I can do. I love the bike, will do etap 1x when it’s available. I know it’s possible for current system, but I can wait until official 1x comes to market.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 12:32 am 
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Posts: 423
The front brake cable exit from under the bar tape could be slid down so it curves away from the handlebars more naturally. I'd try to get the curve to bend inward towards the head tube. It's also too long.

You could do the same with the other cables. No need to add slack for 90 degree angle on the front wheel. Lose the ties. Cables should naturally stay in place. These housings seem quite soft. A harder light weight housing makes softer bends.

Just my guess. I'm not a mechanic or anything. :)

The shape of those bars really makes it a bit troublesome for cable routing.

/a


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:55 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2014 3:50 pm
Posts: 1122
Location: FIN
Cables/housing under the bar( not in the front) , rear shifting housing behind front brake. Instead of zip ties (ugly) use electrical shrink tube.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:26 am 
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stormur wrote:
Cables/housing under the bar( not in the front) , rear shifting housing behind front brake. Instead of zip ties (ugly) use electrical shrink tube.
I’ll try it that routing, go under too, thanks. The zip ties are just placeholders as I haven’t gotten shrink tape on hand st the moment. Lol, I know it’s ugly.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:55 am 
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I'm a cabling fanatic. My advice would be to route the rear brake hose behind everything else and close to the head tube. Then the arc of the rear derailleur cable and the front brake will appear more symmetrical. You can then eliminate the need for zip ties or shrink wrap, or any of that. As others have stated, hoses and housing under bars. Not in front.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 5:21 am 
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Posts: 100
wheelbuilder wrote:
I'm a cabling fanatic. My advice would be to route the rear brake hose behind everything else and close to the head tube. Then the arc of the rear derailleur cable and the front brake will appear more symmetrical. You can then eliminate the need for zip ties or shrink wrap, or any of that. As others have stated, hoses and housing under bars. Not in front.
Thx wb, I think that’s what stormer was implying. I know this will help. How do you decide what’s going to be enough slack for rear brake hose?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 5:54 am 
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Location: CO
You can also run your bar tape all the way to the stem so it can cover more the exposed cables. Your current bar tape seems to be way too short...


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:37 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I think its the design of your bars.

If you ran a more traditional bar, you sorta run the cables on the underside more, then they join further down under the stem

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:22 pm 
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Zip tie the brake and shifter cables together is not a good idea since the brake cable will flex when actuated and can cause the shifter cable to move and possibly affect shifting.

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2015 Trek Emonda SLR Project One - Red eTap - Zipp 303 - 6.48kg
2016 Cannondale SuperX Rival CX1 - 9.29kg


iRide4Sue.org Please Donate to fight Cancer. $27,000 raised in 2017


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:55 pm
Posts: 90
One thing I found out is if cables rub against each other, the housing wears through at that point. I’ve corrected that problem somewhat by running a slightly shorter matching cable on the right or left side.


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Posted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:35 pm 


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