Beating a Dead Horse (CR1s and Campy BBs)
Moderator: robbosmans
OK, not to sound like an idiot... I was browsing ExcelSports.com looking at Record BBs, and this occurred to me.
They offer two versions: 68x102 and 70x102... does the 68mm refer to the width, or the threads? (Eng or Italian). Just wondering, could a 70x102 cure my woes with this last 56cm CR1 limited im sitting on?
In regards to the uneven crankarm clainstay clearance I'm finding?
(Sitting here waiting in my Clown suit)
Also, my Look rep buddy loaned my a 585 demo with DA10 on it... so I'm out to brave the 30° weather for an evaluation. Tweeking postition now. I wish the head tube was 1.5 cm longer...
They offer two versions: 68x102 and 70x102... does the 68mm refer to the width, or the threads? (Eng or Italian). Just wondering, could a 70x102 cure my woes with this last 56cm CR1 limited im sitting on?
In regards to the uneven crankarm clainstay clearance I'm finding?
(Sitting here waiting in my Clown suit)
Also, my Look rep buddy loaned my a 585 demo with DA10 on it... so I'm out to brave the 30° weather for an evaluation. Tweeking postition now. I wish the head tube was 1.5 cm longer...
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..."68mm or 70mm is the width of the bottom braket shell. Most bikes use the 68 English type. Choose 70 for most Italian made frames." I really do feel for what you are going through right now. Given my own anal-retentiveness and the expectation that things should be "perfect," I'd have already had a breakdown over this
I'm just trying to be patient and make sure every option is exhausted before I send it back.
Scott customer service will gladly send me a yellow decal version, but I I just can't stomach it... back to plan B... the 585... but its just too hard to get my position worked out with it.
Scott customer service will gladly send me a yellow decal version, but I I just can't stomach it... back to plan B... the 585... but its just too hard to get my position worked out with it.
The 68mm is BSA thread. The 70mm Italian thread won't go into a frame that takes BSA as the thread goes in a different direction. So if you have the BSA in at the moment you won't be able to use the 70mm version
Can't believe Scott can't put a bit more effort in to helping you out
Can't believe Scott can't put a bit more effort in to helping you out
bikerdan wrote:The 68mm is BSA thread. The 70mm Italian thread won't go into a frame that takes BSA as the thread goes in a different direction. So if you have the BSA in at the moment you won't be able to use the 70mm version
Can't believe Scott can't put a bit more effort in to helping you out
Actually Scott does seem to be trying. As Scott outsources all of their frames, once the Limited frames are gone, they are gone. I agree that the yellow stickered ones are a bit on the fugly side, but the frame itself is still good. Why not just get that frame, ride it for a year, then sell it off and buy next year's version of the king of the heap.
I turn over my race bikes every year- let's me try new stuff and new components. Plus- new toys!
This forum would be a better place if you had to know what you were talking about prior to posting. And if you took yourself less seriously.
Do you have access to any fiends that have shimano or FSA cranks and BB to test in that frame?
Usually a carbon frame is biult in a jig that holds all of the parts in perfect alignment when they are built. All that I can think of is that the BB shell was flawed before it went in the frame.
Usually a carbon frame is biult in a jig that holds all of the parts in perfect alignment when they are built. All that I can think of is that the BB shell was flawed before it went in the frame.
Retapping the BB shell to Italian will move everything 2mm to the left (1mm to for the less offset to the right in the shell and 1mm for the BB expecting to be offset). This would then give you a more even spacing.
The MAJOR downside to this is there is a max. torque value that Scott places on the frames to prevent you moving the shell in the frame. Retapping will exceed this by a fair margin. There will be the minor asthetic issue of 2mm of thread sticking out the non drive side cup - but probably a smaller problem that the yellow stickers
The MAJOR downside to this is there is a max. torque value that Scott places on the frames to prevent you moving the shell in the frame. Retapping will exceed this by a fair margin. There will be the minor asthetic issue of 2mm of thread sticking out the non drive side cup - but probably a smaller problem that the yellow stickers
Success is how far you you bounce back up after being knocked down
I think that I would rather have yellow stickers than modify a frame like that. May void the warranty as well.
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Do you really think the yellow decals are that bad? I think they look pretty good if you slap on a pair of cosmic carbones to accent the yellow. Very sexy imo.
Having failled all that, let your LBS try. I know if my shop was bewildered we'd request the help of the best mechanic in the region.
I'm at a loss why the limited frame would be incorrect for a campy BB. Let your LBS try the BB's they have.
I know the Australian supplier is getting low on stock (no Team Issues for 2005 but framesets are available).
I've heard mixed comments as I own one with silver stickers and a workmate/racemate has one with yellow stickers. I thought silver was very glary at first, but I'm not sure now.
I'm at a loss why the limited frame would be incorrect for a campy BB. Let your LBS try the BB's they have.
I know the Australian supplier is getting low on stock (no Team Issues for 2005 but framesets are available).
I've heard mixed comments as I own one with silver stickers and a workmate/racemate has one with yellow stickers. I thought silver was very glary at first, but I'm not sure now.
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If does'nt come into it. English and Italian shells are different widths, diameters and the drive side threads are in the opposite direction to each other. So you can't rethread them. Try a Royce Ti BB as I think they have no shoulders on either cup and can be adjusted lef to right. Or send it back to Scott and get them to replace it with a frame that is not pissed!![/quote]weiwentg wrote:even if you were to re-thread your frame to Italian, the spindle of the BB would be exactly where it is now. Italian BBs are deeper. sorry, but either your BB is defective or your frame is.
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68mm & 70mm are the distances between the bearings..... sweet FA to do with threads other than english bottom brackets have 68mm axles & ittalian ones have 70mm??
there is so much duff advice on this site its unbelievable
to the geezer with the problem..... have you tried a different BB crank combo ????
out ov interest.... is your frame made in a mould?
there is so much duff advice on this site its unbelievable
to the geezer with the problem..... have you tried a different BB crank combo ????
out ov interest.... is your frame made in a mould?