My American Classic wheels were 1580g I believe without the bolts and 1650 with bolts I think. I do not own them any longer but I am pretty sure they were around that.

Not sure what you wheelset will come in at or what the advertised weight was but the wheelset that I had sure helped me get to the lower weight from everything else I looked at.

_________________
BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5890g/12.98 lbs

I did not weigh the hubs when i got them. I was hoping to save more weight on the wheels than I did. I thought about going with that front road hub, it is crazy light, but I wanted them to match. I ended up saving about 1/2 lb on the front and about 1 lb in back. I did not get the lightest rims but I still wanted them to be pretty tough. My tires are heavier than the stockers too so that does not help. But the difference in the ride was incredible. The shop that built my wheels like the hubs, especially for the price.

I only put about a mile on the fork, I screwed up big time when I was cutting it, I changed out the fork and put all the spacers back on it and measured it, cut it and put back on the bike, realizing that I did not have my bars on there when I measured it WTF!! I took all the spacers out and I have the stem right on top of the top seal, which I am going to assume is not a good idea. And I can get a good clamp on it. I can torque the bottom stem bolt to 45, but the top one I am leery about because it is to close to the top of the stem, I have that one at about 35. My riding angle is changed dramatically also, which while sitting on it and the mile ride actually felt pretty good, but I will have to see on a longer ride.

My bike was at 16 lbs even, now it is at 15.25 lbs with the new cut to short and no spacer fork. I did seem to notice right away that when I was in the drops and pumping hard the bike seemed to surge more than it used to with each pedal action, than may be due to the new angle, or that I took the toe clips off and I am pedaling different.

Now if I can just get over my big a$$ mistake, I will be ok.

How is that fork working out for you? Is the steerer length going to be enough?

Yeah, it was to short, I had it clamped on there, but it was not right, and did not really feel all that safe. At the risk of being called a hack, I made a aluminum sleeve for it at work on the lathe and added back some of the length I cut off, epoxied it in there and tightened it all up. I have my joint in the middle of the stem I cant see it going anywhere. I put about 8 or 10 miles on it today, rides like a champ, personally I cant see any difference in the forks as far as handling, which I guess is a good thing, because I have read that people said it was to flexy, but I dont bomb any steep hills at break neck speeds being a fixed gear, so for me, it feels fine. Ill have to get on a longer ride and see if it helps with the fatigue I get in my hands from the vibration.

How much do you weigh, if you don't mind my asking? And what size Langster do you ride? I know the SLX rake is 43mm, I'm wondering what the rake of the stock fork was...

I am about 175lbs and I have a 58, I am about 6 feet tall. Today I got to try it out some more, I really got out of the saddle today and pushed it a little and there is more flex than stock, where as before I did not notice any, and now there is a little bit. But it felt good for sure, I could not be happier about it, and it was 305 grams lighter than the stock one. I dont know about the rake, I just held the easton up next to the stock one when I got it and it looked like it might be a degree less than the stock one maybe, but I am just eyeballing it.