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 Post subject: Stans notubes in a tube
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:19 pm
Posts: 131
Location: Greve, Denmark
I ride the Stans notubes setup succesfully on my MTB and then I thought, why not put in some of the sealant in the tubes on my roadbike. I have used the search function and read that it should work in a tubular but not sure if it will also work on a clincher/tube setup.

Does anyone have any experience running Stans sealant in the tube? Does it seal punctures? Will it work both on latex and butyl tubes?

I know Vredestein makes tubes with removable valve cores (Presta), but not sure if it's only the versions with long valves (60 mm). Other suggestions on tubes with removable valve cores. Preferable with 36 mm valves?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:22 pm 
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Schwalbes tubes have removable valve cores. I use them myself with stans for winter training.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:50 pm 
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Location: Greve, Denmark
mrowkoob wrote:
Schwalbes tubes have removable valve cores. I use them myself with stans for winter training.


How does it work, does it seal punctures? Do you use butyl or latex tubes?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:56 pm 
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Well I rode my cross all winter last year without punctures. Schwalbe Butyl.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:09 pm 
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It does work sometimes. It depends on the size of the hole and the pressure. Often it won't seal a small hole at 120psi, but once the pressure leaks down to the 90-100psi range the hole will seal. So for that purpose it's great, often if you get a flat it will allow you to keep riding at a lower pressure. Just don't think that after it seals you'll be able to put more air back in, because sometimes it isn't possible.

It works better in CX bikes because of the lower pressures.

Conti tubes also have removable cores.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:15 pm 
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Madcow. You are usully a great source of info but the conti tubes I´ve bought for road and cx have not had removable valve cores could it be different for the US market?

I also tried on my road training wheels. Had less punctures than without but twice i had blow outs with stans all over the place. Mind I only use about 10 ml Stans in a tube.

Also I´ve tried it on punctured tubulars. Could refill air withoput a problem and ride maybe 1000 k´s extra on a punctured tubbie.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:25 pm 
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That really is odd that yours don't. Our conti tubes have had removable cores for years and years. I had wondered if they recently changed that, so I went downstairs and checked some in the stock, and they all still have removable cores. So perhaps it is a difference between the US and EU.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:37 pm 
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Maybe they make both? Anyway if you buy them online tcrcramer maybe email and ask them about the valves before ordering

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:59 pm 
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Thanks a lot for the answers. Found out that I have some Bontrager Race X-lite tubes with removable valve core, so will try with those.

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 Post subject: Stans sealant for tubes
PostPosted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:12 pm 
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Location: USA
I successfully used the Stans for road Tubular applications because it seemed so similar to the Tufo sealant. Anything big enough to cut the chords was more than it could handle at higher pressures. It worked well for objects that went between the chords I.E. thorns, staples, finishing nails

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 12:35 am 
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Location: Belgium
mrowkoob wrote:
Maybe they make both? Anyway if you buy them online tcrcramer maybe email and ask them about the valves before ordering


Hi,

Only the lower range of most manufacturers' tubulars have non-removable cores.
We're talking 15 to 25 Euro a tubular here invariably with butyl inner tubes and in the 300g range.

Since I tried Tufo sealant years ago (yes, it does work but...) I only use either Vittoria PittStop (once at home, not on the road) as it works most of the time to repair semi-worn tubulars or I'll just repair the tried and trusted old-fashioned way.

By not using sealant pre-emptively I also know where I puncture and with what tubular so I know when to avoid certain areas with what tubulars etc.
There's also no point IMHO in buying light and thereby fragile tubulars to then fill them with a liquid that will ruin the very qualities you'd bought it for in the first place.

On training tubulars with non-removable valve cores you can still get some liquid latex in by using either Vittoria PittStop or by pouring some latex in a pump if you must.
There are also means to remove a non-removable core too...

Ciao, :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:25 am 
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fdegrove wrote:
There's also no point IMHO in buying light and thereby fragile tubulars to then fill them with a liquid that will ruin the very qualities you'd bought it for in the first place.


True, although it might allow you to keep using your tubs as training tyres if you puncture in a race.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 3:26 am 
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I tried Stan in my tub that had a small hole puncture it does not seal at pressure above 110psi but once the pressure went down to 80-70 psi it seem to seal and hold air however when you try to inflate it back to 110 psi even after it holds air the liquid start to spray right out of the puncture therefore it will only be good for riding back home after puncture .


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:06 am 
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fdegrove wrote:
mrowkoob wrote:
Maybe they make both? Anyway if you buy them online tcrcramer maybe email and ask them about the valves before ordering


Hi,

Only the lower range of most manufacturers' tubulars have non-removable cores.
We're talking 15 to 25 Euro a tubular here invariably with butyl inner tubes and in the 300g range.

Since I tried Tufo sealant years ago (yes, it does work but...) I only use either Vittoria PittStop (once at home, not on the road) as it works most of the time to repair semi-worn tubulars or I'll just repair the tried and trusted old-fashioned way.

By not using sealant pre-emptively I also know where I puncture and with what tubular so I know when to avoid certain areas with what tubulars etc.
There's also no point IMHO in buying light and thereby fragile tubulars to then fill them with a liquid that will ruin the very qualities you'd bought it for in the first place.

On training tubulars with non-removable valve cores you can still get some liquid latex in by using either Vittoria PittStop or by pouring some latex in a pump if you must.
There are also means to remove a non-removable core too...

Ciao, :wink:


Fdegrove the thread is about tubes not tubulars :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 3171
Location: Belgium
Hi,

Ooopssss..... :oops:
Things can become confusing after midnight. :wink:

Anyway, some of the stuff I wrote apply to inner tubes and tubulars alike so not all is lost..... :D

Anyway, sorry about that. :wink:

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