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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:35 pm 
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WWotY 2007
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Location: France.
Hey.


I've received today my MAG190 hub, I'd like to know if I can lace it radial for the non drive side? If it is not allowed, Ill lace it three times.
What about the front hub? Can it be laced radially?

My latest build, almost finished:

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Image
Image


Thanks.Adrien.

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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:35 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:52 pm 
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I have not the answer, but which rim are you using? 651 gr. for a rear alu-wheel is very light and i like the gold-finish.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:55 pm 
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@ cannondale

you should see some other (old) tricks from this french magician, posted before...

:wink: :wink: :wink:

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Last edited by Luc on Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 9:57 pm 
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Cannondale wrote:
I have not the answer, but which rim are you using? 651 gr. for a rear alu-wheel is very light and i like the gold-finish.


Mavic OR7... Retrostyle...


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 10:06 pm 
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:back2topic:

rear: NOT ALLOWED, but you could do it 2time crossed in the left and 3time crossed on the right side (cassette side= right)

front: up to 28holes it is allowed

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 9:24 am 
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Ok thanks you guys, I'll lace it 3 times on both sides so.
It is indeed a Mavic Or7 rim, certainly the lightest aluminium rim :)
I weighted every parts of this wheel;
you can see it HERE

Maybe I'll translate all what I wrote on this french forum in a new topic here.
This may be interesting for some persons.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:55 pm 
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On the Tune MAG 190 hub only radial with heads out will give a smaller bracing angle than 3 cross. Less crosses or radial heads in all result in less tension on the non-drive side.

(according to spocalc - hope it's not wrong :) )


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 1:33 pm 
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Adrien wrote:
Ok thanks you guys, I'll lace it 3 times on both sides so.
It is indeed a Mavic Or7 rim, certainly the lightest aluminium rim :)
I weighted every parts of this wheel;
you can see it HERE

Maybe I'll translate all what I wrote on this french forum in a new topic here.
This may be interesting for some persons.


Nice, can these rims still be had/bought? how durable are they, would you use for everyday normal riding?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 10:07 pm 
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For Spytech; no the rims can't be bought anymore, they were sold between 1980 and 1985/1990. I don't know if they are durable, this is the first build I do with very light aluminium rims. I'll use them for two or three trainings when they will be done, then if there's no problem, I'll give them to my father for his new bike, he will buy this frame and fork:

Image

with a 10 speed Ultegra complete group, that should be an amazing bike!
Personnaly, I doubt the Or7 is a solid rim, but my dad ride quite slowly, smoothly and I'll tell him to take care of the wheels. :wink:

For divve; I chose to put the spokes heads inside the flange to have a little lateral stiffness gain; the angle is bigger than with outside spokes heads, which means that the spokes will let the rim to move laterally but less than with outside spokes heads (theorically).I hope I explain well...
It should also theorically bring some more comfort. Indeed, inside spokes heads will allow the rim to move easier vertically than outside spokes heads (still thanks to the bigger angle).
But all those facts are only theorical, I doubt it happens like that really.(it does, but it is trivial).
Anyway, the con is that it brings a more uneven spoke tensure between right and left spokes, and this is not theorical!
Your picture is good for the hub, but the Or7 effective rim diameter is 616 and not 599, it should change a bit the angle. It is also a 36 spokes rims.

By the way, why do you have all these options on your spoke calculator? For the french version, there's only the spoke lenght according to the cross, there isn't the bracing angle and the different spoke tension.

I go to download the english version! NOW :)

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 10:37 pm 
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I think the OR7 are okay for a front wheel...

I'm pretty keen on old skool stuff myself... you can still buy these rims at insane prices at some stores, but if you know where to look and have a lot of luck, they can be found for cheap...


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 12:53 am 
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divve wrote:
On the Tune MAG 190 hub only radial with heads out will give a smaller bracing angle than 3 cross. Less crosses or radial heads in all result in less tension on the non-drive side.

(according to spocalc - hope it's not wrong :) )


also if you have a Rim with offset it will give you more even tension. does anyone know what the offset is on the velocity aerohead OC and the alex EST 14 rims?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 1:44 am 
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Adrien, I understand. It's all one big compromise, but it's still interesting to find out why one person chose a certain build option over another.

(the data used was from my build with a DT RR 1.1 rim)


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 Post subject: OR7s
PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:05 am 
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Adrian, I'm my experence the OR7s and Fiaemme Ergal Golds do not hold up well to use on modern rear hubs. They do not have the inherant stiffness to hold the driveside spoke tension that will build a reasonably stiff wheel, unfortunatly.

Best of luck, but I found after a short period of time they would start to colapse into the long "potato chip" type wave.

Althogh Tune do not reccomend a radial non drive side spoking, the tension will be low enough that it would not damage the hub

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:22 am 
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Well I did a build with a "Argent10" 334gr, 3x crossed right and 2x crossed left, I'm using them since almost 1000km, and I have no problem yet with them, of course they are almost 60gr more than the Or7 but they have absolutely the same form!
So I might have no problem with the Or7 build, like for the Argent10.

I hope.
Anyway, the time will speak. I'll let you know if I get problems with them.
If one breaks, I will still have 3 Or7 in my garage to build again one ! 8)

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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:22 am 


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