Best latex tube - which one?

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dereksmalls
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by dereksmalls

Yeah I'm currently using Vredestein latex with Enve 45 classic CC, and have also used Panaracer Greenlite tubes, with no issues/blowouts etc. Only issue I have had was myself not installing them properly once and catching the tube between tire and rim causing a puncture not long after riding. Otherwise all good

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drainyoo
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by drainyoo

Would definitely like to know if there are others who are using latex tubes with carbon clinchers. I really want to try latex but Mavic doesn't reccomend using them with the Cosmic Carbone 40C. Not sure why though if the inner part of the rim is aluminum.

fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

I really want to try latex but Mavic doesn't reccomend using them with the Cosmic Carbone 40C. Not sure why though if the inner part of the rim is aluminum.


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spookyload
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by spookyload

Vredestein Latex have been amazing with my carbon clinchers. Fairwheelsbikes has them online. They also have the Vittoria latex that are good as well. I prefer the Vredestein however.

fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

I prefer the Vredestein however.


As do I but can you tell us why?

TIA, ;)
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spookyload
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by spookyload

The first reason I like them is they aren't dyed. They are natural latex colored. They seem to bond with patches better for some reason. I have had problems with patches failing on Michelin green tubes in particular, and sometimes the Vittoria tubes which are dyed pink get touchy. I also like the valve stem length. It is a little longer than the Vittoria tubes. For my Reynolds Assault 46mm rims, they are just long enough that I don't need an extender. That is huge for me. Of course the fact that they are the lightest by a lot is the last reason I like them. This is WW after all.

supermidget
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by supermidget

Vredestein tubes here! Haven't had any issues with them at all.

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Mockenrue
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by Mockenrue

I started off with Vredesteins after all the praise on here, but found them to be unreliable despite the utmost care having been taken with installation. I had three let go one after the other, two of which were just after inflating the tyre prior to going out. I barely got a dozen rides out of them. Upon inspection they had gone all wrinkly in a strip along the underside and a hole had appeared close to the part where the valve is attached or elsewhere along the wrinkle where the tube was weakened. I then tried Vittorias (the pink ones) and these lasted longer but eventually succumbed to the same problem. I'm now using Michelin AirComps and so far (touch wood) these have been fine.

Wheels are Hyperon Ultra Twos with Open Corsa SCs and Velox cloth rim tape.

fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

User error.

Ciao, ;)
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fdegrove
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by fdegrove

Hi,

spookyload wrote:The first reason I like them is they aren't dyed. They are natural latex colored. They seem to bond with patches better for some reason. I have had problems with patches failing on Michelin green tubes in particular, and sometimes the Vittoria tubes which are dyed pink get touchy. I also like the valve stem length. It is a little longer than the Vittoria tubes. For my Reynolds Assault 46mm rims, they are just long enough that I don't need an extender. That is huge for me. Of course the fact that they are the lightest by a lot is the last reason I like them. This is WW after all.


Couldn't agree more.
I'd also add that undyed latex feels a tad more comfortable, better touch with the road.

Thanks fro the reply, 8)
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dereksmalls
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by dereksmalls

So fdegrove, what tires, are you riding with your Vredesteins to give the best feel and what pressures?

alexaqui
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by alexaqui

Using vittoria latex tubes with an Enve 6.7 wheel set with Veloflex Carbon clinchers. No issues at all after about 1500kms.

I did have a failure of a Vredestein latex tube on another wheelset (non-CC) after a seemingly okay installation. Sadly this happened 5 miles into a race and ruined my A race of the season!

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djconnel
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by djconnel

From Lennard Zinn's VeloNews.com column, mounting advice from Challenge.... don't forget the talc....

The keys during installation are:
1. lightly inflating the tube exactly to the point where it first forms its toroidal shape with no extra pressure;
2. making sure the tube is covered in talc so it slides through your hand (and inside the tire) and is not sticky;
3. as you press the second bead of the tire into the rim, make sure the latex inner tube is inserted into the tire cradle (away from the tire rim interface) and is NOT twisted;
4. when you get to the point where you are pushing the last bit of the second bead onto the rim, if the tube is trying to escape the tire, reduce the air pressure a bit until the tube can be pushed up into the tire and away from the tire/rim interface;
5. when you get the tire fully seated, inflate the tire to about 2 bar (25-30 psi), remove the pump and gently rock the tire back and forth through its entire radius to make sure the tire is truly seated and the inner tube is not pinched between the tire and rim somewhere; and
6. finally, fully inflate the inner tube.
Read more at http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/07/ ... 51dVSpc.99

supermidget
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by supermidget

Note to anyone looking to buy the vredestein latex tubes: their stem lengths are very far off as i found out yesterday buying a replacement for my front wheel. the 50mm advertised is really more like 34mm so the tube doesn't work with my wheels. Read a little online to find out that the 60mm is actually more like 54-55mm as well so take this into account if you're looking to buy the Vredestein tubes.

11.4
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by 11.4

djconnel wrote:From Lennard Zinn's VeloNews.com column, mounting advice from Challenge.... don't forget the talc....

The keys during installation are:
1. lightly inflating the tube exactly to the point where it first forms its toroidal shape with no extra pressure;
2. making sure the tube is covered in talc so it slides through your hand (and inside the tire) and is not sticky;
3. as you press the second bead of the tire into the rim, make sure the latex inner tube is inserted into the tire cradle (away from the tire rim interface) and is NOT twisted;
4. when you get to the point where you are pushing the last bit of the second bead onto the rim, if the tube is trying to escape the tire, reduce the air pressure a bit until the tube can be pushed up into the tire and away from the tire/rim interface;
5. when you get the tire fully seated, inflate the tire to about 2 bar (25-30 psi), remove the pump and gently rock the tire back and forth through its entire radius to make sure the tire is truly seated and the inner tube is not pinched between the tire and rim somewhere; and
6. finally, fully inflate the inner tube.
Read more at http://velonews.competitor.com/2014/07/ ... 51dVSpc.99


Pretty good description from Challenge. #5 means to push the tire far enough to each side so you can see down between the tire and the rim to the base tape. If you see any sign of the tube, that has to be fixed. The tube should be completely inside the tire at that point.

One important additional step at the end is to start pumping the tire, then make sure the valve stem is well and fully seated in the rim bed. If it's sitting up just a few millimeters, the tire will expand and infiltrate under the valve stem base and even into the valve stem hole on the rim. Needless to say, do this before you have much air in the tire or you may already have inflated the tube down and around the raised valve stem. At that point you end up sooner or later with a puncture or blowout right at the valve stem, something that latex tubes often suffer and that they are wrongly maligned for.

by Weenie


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