hmm... I tried that and it resulted in a lot of foot pain and not much shoe movement. I got frustrated so I cranked my oven up to 220 and left them in there for 20 minutes, and then placed a table leg over the arch area and pushed down with all my weight. A make-it-or-break-it approach if you will. It helped to some extent, I went on a 30 mile ride today and didn't feel the same arch pressure for the most part. left shoe might need to undergo ahem, "treatment," again.

A curious side note, originally there were about two dozen little pinholes in finish/resin? on the bottom of the shoe. After putting it through the oven like that they all seem to have disappeared...

Did you order these shoes from Bont? I believe they have a flat arch option:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/genera ... ost4062446

nah, I bought them from Excel sports because it was $50 cheaper...
At any rate, after reading Steve Hogg's article about arch support, what I have going now might not be such a bad thing for me. Guess I'm going to try riding like this for a while, and for now focus on getting speedplay cleats on properly. Baseplate is warping because of imperfect shoe curvature...

Try different combinations of 1 and 4 shims to get a nice flush flat fit. Personally I'm running 1's in the rear of the cleat and 4's up front and that seems to perfectly match the sole, haven't had any issues.

Also, sadly it looks like my honeymoon might have been a bit too soon, the ctt-1's are awesome with the Giro insoles but when I try to use my eSoles the 42's are too small and crunchy for this the 42.5's seem to be better when using eSoles because of their added mass.

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Looks like I made a new 90 Proof friend

If volume is the problem try baking again and strap down real snug to stretch uppers.

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Bianchi-Campagnolo

Tried baking twice, don't seem to be able to make up enough room, the eSoles are really thick compared to the Bont stock or Giro SuperFit Kit ones plus the heel cup isn't nearly as deep which props the foot up noticeably.

Anyhow, I'll be experimenting a bit yet

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Looks like I made a new 90 Proof friend

Hmm, I'll give it a shot. I think the biggest issue for me is that I have such a small size (41) that the baseplate ends up going over the arch area a little which is not side-to-side flat, which causes torsional warping. My friend's size 47 has a very flat (side-to-side) sole though.

My size 46 Vaypors have significant rocking with Keo cleats.

Please can anyone let me know where I can find those shims? Thanks

GJ

The shims come with Speedplay pedals. I'm not sure they will work with Keo/SPD-SLs.

Cut yogurt covers worked for me.

Louis

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http://www.ccsalma.com

Yeah, even with the 4F/1R shims it's not sitting well because of how the shoe curves side to side. I guess that's just an issue with these smalle shoe sizes. Gonna have to take a dremel to it and shape it out a bit I guess.

Alright, basically *f##k* this... the sole is so curved that after ~4hrs of dremeling and shimming I got it *acceptably* flat on one shoe. I say acceptably flat because it the 3-4 hole baseplate *seems* flat, but I know its warped because after multiple clip-in/clip-outs there is an obvious wear pattern in the base plate for only half the pedal. On the plus side, I can clip in, which is more than I can say for the other shoe right now. I have half a mind to get some urethane casting resin and just cast my own shims from a mold of my shoe.

I believe the shims are for adjustments along the sole (front to back), not laterally. I also believe Bont soles are made by hand so there's some element of randomness there.

Have you considered adjusting (dremel, sanding, etc) the shims to fit the shoe, instead of the other way around?

Also, what exactly is the issue with the cleat not sitting flush? Is it rocking side to side when you pedal? If the problem is difficulty engaging, have you possibly fastened the cleat screws too tightly? That will make it near impossible to engage, as I learned on my first day riding Speedplay.

Sorry I was a bit unclear. I was dremeling/sanding the shims to fit the shoe, I dont want to take a dremel to the sole of the shoe. The issue with the 3-4hole adapter plate not sitting properly flush is that when the 3 adapter screws are tightened, the adapter plate warps to fit the shoe. This causes the plastic part (the part that holds the C clip and screws into the 3-4 adapter) to warp and makes it extremely difficult to engage the pedal. If I loosen the adapter plate screws enough so that it doesn't warp, it's completely loose and slides around the shoe.

I got them both to clip in and out for now, but the left shoe is noticeably harder to get it to engage. I didn't spend as much time on that one and the adapter plate is ever-so-slightly warped.

The adapter plate is only to allow for the cleat to be attached as well as minor front to back cleat position adjustment. Have you tried tightening just the top plate screw, and leaving the other two fairly loose to the point where it does not warp? The front screw should hold the plate in place and prevent it from moving forward and back.

Then attach the cleat itself to the plate, tightening a quarter turn per screw. If you crank down the cleat screws very tight, you will not be able to engage. If that still doesn't work, can you upload a picture of what's going on? I've never heard of anyone needing to sand down shims to use Speedplay pedals.

Quote from Speedplay website:
I just installed my new X pedals and cleats. The pedals will not engage the cleats properly or the cleats pull out while riding or sprinting. What should I do?

Be sure that the 4 x 11mm outer fastening screws of the cleats are not over-tightened. Tighten cleat fastening screws until resistance is felt and then tighten no more than ¼ turn. Over-tightening prevents the springs from operating properly, can affect engagement and retention, and can cause the springs to break. Also ensure that the correct mounting hardware and Snap Shim Kit have been used.