jlok wrote:How to extract the stuck heal pad bolt? the nut in the footbed is loosen... both the nut and bolt are rusted...
try a few drops of plusgas and leave it to sink in, it can help ease the thread
Bont shoes
Moderator: robbosmans
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ok, i will try... but the nut is loosen and when you turn the bolt from under the shoe, the nut turns also...
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
Because of my terrible difficult left foot I thought I might give it a try for some Bont Vaypor shoes. They where on discount @ Wiggle so I tried myself a pair of black ones, size 42 which is the same as my Giro 41. When I rode with the Giro's I always used my orthopaedic insoles to give some comfort to my left foot. The only discomfort was that I got a few dormant toes. Not really bad but I thought that could be better. Tried the Giro's without the insoles but that gave me a lot of pain under the left foot - no succes at all.
Molded the Bont shoes with the slightly more comfortable insole from the Giro shoes and well....Almost perfect @ first ride. Did a second heatmold with an extra sock on my left foot to give some extra space for the little toe. Yesterday I rode a 75K ride and they are spot on now
No pain or strange feeling in my left foot - just even better that orthopaedic soles in my daily shoes I wear.
Just ordered a second pair of Bont Vaypor - the white / black ones now @ Wiggle. I will try the Bont insoles that come with the shoes during the first molding process - see how that will fit.
Molded the Bont shoes with the slightly more comfortable insole from the Giro shoes and well....Almost perfect @ first ride. Did a second heatmold with an extra sock on my left foot to give some extra space for the little toe. Yesterday I rode a 75K ride and they are spot on now
No pain or strange feeling in my left foot - just even better that orthopaedic soles in my daily shoes I wear.Just ordered a second pair of Bont Vaypor - the white / black ones now @ Wiggle. I will try the Bont insoles that come with the shoes during the first molding process - see how that will fit.
Got me a pair of used zero + recently. I have heat molded them a few times now, and bumped up my oven temp to 185 F for 20 minutes. I feel like they have molded ever so slightly each time but I am considering going up to 190 F and molding again. They are amazingly stiff!
Update: shoes are getting more comfortable but I feel the need to mold them again as the toe box is not quite comfortable enough yet. It feels like the bottom of the shoes curves upwards and my toes want it to be flatter. I have read that someone discussed the heat molding process with a Bont employee and the employee stated that the actual temp for molding is higher than stated: should be about 200 F. They figure people are going to overshoot or oven temp variations occur so they play it conservatively. I see that the recommended temp by bont has increased over the years. I'm not sure how reliable this info is but tonight I plan to bump up the temp to 200 F for 20 min and have another go.
sounds likely, initially i used a temperature probe to see what was going on, at the published temperature the resin was barely softening
but i gave up on the oven, too slow and the entire shoe 'relaxes' each time making it impractical for changing just one area
now i use a heat gun set to 100c, it's faster, easier and better, a hairdryer can also be used but needs care as some go way hotter
but i gave up on the oven, too slow and the entire shoe 'relaxes' each time making it impractical for changing just one area
now i use a heat gun set to 100c, it's faster, easier and better, a hairdryer can also be used but needs care as some go way hotter
Beatie,
not sure that you will have any luck in flattening the sole at the toes. If you do succeed (I think you will have to get really forceful to bend in that direction) you may change the cleat interface so much that it will require shims to properly mount a cleat.
The curvature of the sole has to match the cleats. Other mfgs manage that camber by creating a dip in the sole to create separate curves for the cleat and foot. Since the Bont doesn't have that dip, the curve for the cleat and sole are the same.
not sure that you will have any luck in flattening the sole at the toes. If you do succeed (I think you will have to get really forceful to bend in that direction) you may change the cleat interface so much that it will require shims to properly mount a cleat.
The curvature of the sole has to match the cleats. Other mfgs manage that camber by creating a dip in the sole to create separate curves for the cleat and foot. Since the Bont doesn't have that dip, the curve for the cleat and sole are the same.
^^^this
you can mould the edges of the toe box, but i doubt the cleat area can be changed, i always assumed the cf applied in the heat mouldable areas was added to a non-mouldable central 'plate'
different footbeds might help, last year when i had only just got the bonts i went away and forgot to put my efit ones in - i need a lot of arch support - but i improvised by cutting up some old specialized bg footbeds i'd packed - i brought two pairs probably thinking one were the efit ones! - and fixing the lumps to the other pair with double sided tape, it took a few rides to get them just right and looked awful, but they were comfy and worked out really well over the next couple of weeks
on the same principle perhaps you can create a piece to under the footbed and 'fill in' some of the dip
you can mould the edges of the toe box, but i doubt the cleat area can be changed, i always assumed the cf applied in the heat mouldable areas was added to a non-mouldable central 'plate'
different footbeds might help, last year when i had only just got the bonts i went away and forgot to put my efit ones in - i need a lot of arch support - but i improvised by cutting up some old specialized bg footbeds i'd packed - i brought two pairs probably thinking one were the efit ones! - and fixing the lumps to the other pair with double sided tape, it took a few rides to get them just right and looked awful, but they were comfy and worked out really well over the next couple of weeks
on the same principle perhaps you can create a piece to under the footbed and 'fill in' some of the dip
This^^^
Use whatever insole you want, then sand down the thickness of the insole forward of the ball of the foot, or cut it offer entirely. You can either sticky tape the insole inside the shoe to keep it form sliding forward, or you can mate up another section ahead of BOF using a thinner material. That will effectively reduce toe spring height/camber in the sole.
BTW, I agree with your assessment - i don't like too much camber in the sole, find newer Shimano's very good in this respect.
Use whatever insole you want, then sand down the thickness of the insole forward of the ball of the foot, or cut it offer entirely. You can either sticky tape the insole inside the shoe to keep it form sliding forward, or you can mate up another section ahead of BOF using a thinner material. That will effectively reduce toe spring height/camber in the sole.
BTW, I agree with your assessment - i don't like too much camber in the sole, find newer Shimano's very good in this respect.
sungod wrote:....
now i use a heat gun set to 100c, it's faster, easier and better...
That's a great idea!
I used so far my Bont shoes without any modification but I finally decide to try to get the sole modified.
How long do you heat them?
Is there any point I should be careful with this method?
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