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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 7:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 12:06 am
Posts: 1246
Location: A Scotsman on rock in the pacific
I've got a full carbon fork (Giant TCR)... without any star-fangled nut inside for tightening the headset... What are my options for a lightweight component to do this that will work well with my carbon steerer?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 7:13 am
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Location: Finland
Plastique cap....with or without USE Ring-go-star.

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Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 8:16 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 5:31 pm
Posts: 125
if you are an ultra weight weenie you could:

1) remove your front brake
2) obtain a piece of threaded rod, 2 nuts and 2 washers,
3) tighten the nuts against the washers bearing on the underside of your fork and top of your stem,
4) tighten the stem clamp,
5) remove the rod, nut and washers
6) reinstall brake.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 6:48 am
Posts: 1225
Location: Central USA
Get the Extralight Ultra Star from Lightbikes.com

It reinforces the carbon steerer beside helping with the top cap


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 4:44 pm
Posts: 148
Location: All over Texas
http://www.henryjames.com/

Order the Alpha Q kit. This it the best insurance for a carbon steerer as it completely reinforces the tube. The only downside is it is more or less permanent since you glue it in place.

Be sure to clean the ID of the steerer with sandpaper before epoxying the insert. Wet both surfaces with epoxy, position the insert and let cure upside-down with a greased bolt installed in the nut.


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 Post subject: That URL doesn't work...
PostPosted: Tue Aug 03, 2004 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 16, 2004 12:06 am
Posts: 1246
Location: A Scotsman on rock in the pacific
do you have a working URL for lightbikes.com or another place that I can get an extralight ultra star?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 2:55 am 
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Weisse Luft wrote:
http://www.henryjames.com/

Order the Alpha Q kit. This it the best insurance for a carbon steerer as it completely reinforces the tube. The only downside is it is more or less permanent since you glue it in place.

Be sure to clean the ID of the steerer with sandpaper before epoxying the insert. Wet both surfaces with epoxy, position the insert and let cure upside-down with a greased bolt installed in the nut.

:?:
I'm not certain that the AlphaQ kit is compatible with all carbon steerer tubes...apparently the wall thickness of the AlphaQ is thinner than some others (which is why they have the flange kit). The diameter of the alloy tube might not fit all steerer tube inside diameters, I'm not sure.

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"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 2:57 am 
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mzagorski wrote:
do you have a working URL for lightbikes.com or another place that I can get an extralight ultra star?

http://www.sales.light-bikes.com/

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"Gimondi è un eroe umano, che viene sconfitto ma che continua la sua corsa fino a tornare a vincere." - Enrico Ruggeri


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 5:39 am 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 7:13 am
Posts: 2169
Location: Finland
Alpha Q forks are silly. First you make light fork that has so thin walled stereer that it flex like hell and second you need alloy reinforcement so you could clamp stem to it. If I remember correctly that alloy tube+star weighed ~42g so it's doulble as Rin-go-star (very handy).

Many road forks haven't got hole on bottom on fork so treaded rod can't be used. But you van use normal alloy anchors and take them out after thightening headset. But best solution in to get Stork Stiletto fork, you know what I mean when assembling it. Amaising engineering!

:wink:

But if you must stay on lower quality forks then Extralite may me nice, only 6g!

Image

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 10:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 12, 2003 3:11 pm
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Location: Frederica (Denmark)
@ Mr_Potatohead

Great tip on star nut savings. I'm running a Pace RC-31 carbon fork on my mtb. My fork does have a hole in the bottom, so I'll be trying that one out.

I currently run 10mm of carbon spacers and a ring-go-star. If it works, I could lose the 10mm spacer, the ring-go-star and cut my steerer tube to a shorter length.

I was considering shortening my steerer tube anyway. I use my mtb on the road 90% of the time and the aero advantages of 20mm off my front end would also help.

Anyone have a rough idea what 20mm of steerer tub would weigh?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 3:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2003 1:43 pm
Posts: 751
Location: Belgium
3cm weighs about 10g (carbon steerer), so it will be about 6g + the ringostar and the spacer.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 5:31 pm
Posts: 125
Samu Ilonen wrote:
Many road forks haven't got hole on bottom on fork so treaded rod can't be used. But you van use normal alloy anchors and take them out after thightening headset.



I suppose you could use a big ol' carpenters clamp. I would just be concerned about applying the clamping load eccentric to the centerline of the fork tube.

What are these alloy anchors that you refer to?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2003 1:43 pm
Posts: 751
Location: Belgium
Mr_Potatohead wrote:
if you are an ultra weight weenie you could:

1) remove your front brake
2) obtain a piece of threaded rod, 2 nuts and 2 washers,
3) tighten the nuts against the washers bearing on the underside of your fork and top of your stem,
4) tighten the stem clamp,
5) remove the rod, nut and washers
6) reinstall brake.


Just install expander and top cap and remove it again after adjusting the headset bearings


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 7:38 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 7:13 am
Posts: 2169
Location: Finland
Alloy Achors...I meaned some sort of expander system that is remoable after use. Not very handy.

_________________
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 7:38 pm 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2004 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2004 5:31 pm
Posts: 125
Joel wrote:
Just install expander and top cap and remove it again after adjusting the headset bearings


yeah that's probably a better idea, my idea is actually from the days of press into head tube headset cups. You can use the same principle to install your own headset without the ol' hammer and block of wood.


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