lightweight 12-28 cassette
Moderator: robbosmans
American classic makes one but it is $170 and it is only 16g lighter than a much cheaper and more durable dura-ace 12-27.
I am trying to eek out the lowest gear possible with a standard shimano double crankset. I already have a 38t front. I would like to get a 28 in the back as that is the largest cog that will fit a 9spd DA rear derailleur. Durability is not much of a factor as it will be used in hillclimb races ~3 times per year. Cost is a factor because it is hard to pony up that much money for parts the hardly ever get used. Weight is obliously a factor, these are hillclimbs and I need all the help I can get!
I am trying to eek out the lowest gear possible with a standard shimano double crankset. I already have a 38t front. I would like to get a 28 in the back as that is the largest cog that will fit a 9spd DA rear derailleur. Durability is not much of a factor as it will be used in hillclimb races ~3 times per year. Cost is a factor because it is hard to pony up that much money for parts the hardly ever get used. Weight is obliously a factor, these are hillclimbs and I need all the help I can get!
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check out
http://www.cycle-dynamics.com/
They will make you a combo to your specs. It's full TI (except for the lowest cog).
I have one and love it. I got a 26 - 11 with extra cogs and end cogs. I can run a 26 - 13 or a 19- 11 depending on my race
http://www.cycle-dynamics.com/
They will make you a combo to your specs. It's full TI (except for the lowest cog).
I have one and love it. I got a 26 - 11 with extra cogs and end cogs. I can run a 26 - 13 or a 19- 11 depending on my race
- Samu Ilonen
- Posts: 2155
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T&A Specialities Kheops may be?
It may be that 24 is biggest option.
Look here:
http://www.starbike.com
It may be that 24 is biggest option.
Look here:
http://www.starbike.com
Samu @ www.signature.fi
- asphaltdude
- Posts: 1231
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 8:39 pm
- Location: Holland
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Maybe you can buy a 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 23 - 25 Dura - Ace or Ultegra cassette, take the 13 away and add a 28 that you drill out a bit...
Whow! That's a pretty damn nice garage door!
asphaltdude wrote:Maybe you can buy a 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 23 - 25 Dura - Ace or Ultegra cassette, take the 13 away and add a 28 that you drill out a bit...
That is a great idea! thanks, i think i will give that a try.
- asphaltdude
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jer wrote:asphaltdude wrote:Maybe you can buy a 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 23 - 25 Dura - Ace or Ultegra cassette, take the 13 away and add a 28 that you drill out a bit...
That is a great idea! thanks, i think i will give that a try.
I'll use that combi too, when I go to the Elzas region in 2 weeks (with 38-53 up front)
Whow! That's a pretty damn nice garage door!
It is a long time since I tried last time, but somehow I seem to remember that it is quite difficult to drill holes in hardned steel cogs. I do remember destroying more drills than the number of holes that I was actually able to make.
- asphaltdude
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- Location: Holland
- Contact:
This one's 85 grams
Whow! That's a pretty damn nice garage door!
- spaniardclimber
- Posts: 1078
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2003 10:15 am
How much did you wait for your Cycledinamics ti cassette? I ordered mine on march and Im still waiting for it!!
- asphaltdude
- Posts: 1231
- Joined: Tue Aug 12, 2003 8:39 pm
- Location: Holland
- Contact:
jer wrote:my only worry is if the 28t cog will cut the freehub body because it is not attached to an alloy carrier. I think i am going to try to JB weld or screw it to a splined spacer
What kind of freehub body do you have?
I've used a 28 t cog without any carrier on an old 8 speed Shimano Ultegra 600 hub for 2 weeks in the Alps and no problems...
Whow! That's a pretty damn nice garage door!
I will be using it on an American Classic. The freehub bodies on those are, i believe, aluminum. I think the ultegra is steel. I have seen xtr (ti) freehub bodies cut into a little by loose cogs so I want to see if i can solve that problem before it is one.
Cobalt drill bits will work in steel, but they seem to get dull pretty fast. My application was drilling out some seized steel bolts, and I had much better success with straight flute carbide drill bits from J&L industrial supply. Carbide bits are pricey, but this is WW right? You should use eye and breathing protection when drilling as carbide tools contain boron.
http://www.jlindustrial.com/search/searchresults.jsp;jsessionid=BCJK4YH5040R1LAUBIWSFEVMCQFCYIV0?_requestid=181151
http://www.jlindustrial.com/search/searchresults.jsp;jsessionid=BCJK4YH5040R1LAUBIWSFEVMCQFCYIV0?_requestid=181151
Use for drilling hardened steel 45-65 Rockwell “C” scale
• Straight flute makes this drill ideal for cutting difficult-to-machine and abrasive materials such as nickel base material, titanium alloys, stainless steels and cast iron
• The straight flute design provides maximum rigidity and reduces tool deflection
• Available sizes 3/64" to 1/2"
• Available in 140º and 135º point angles
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
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