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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 10:50 pm 
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Location: Anchorage, AK
American classic makes one but it is $170 and it is only 16g lighter than a much cheaper and more durable dura-ace 12-27.

I am trying to eek out the lowest gear possible with a standard shimano double crankset. I already have a 38t front. I would like to get a 28 in the back as that is the largest cog that will fit a 9spd DA rear derailleur. Durability is not much of a factor as it will be used in hillclimb races ~3 times per year. Cost is a factor because it is hard to pony up that much money for parts the hardly ever get used. Weight is obliously a factor, these are hillclimbs and I need all the help I can get!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 10:53 pm 
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That would be a shimano compatable 9 speed cassette that i am after :oops:


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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 10:53 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 2:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 10:18 pm
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Location: Colorado
check out

http://www.cycle-dynamics.com/

They will make you a combo to your specs. It's full TI (except for the lowest cog).

I have one and love it. I got a 26 - 11 with extra cogs and end cogs. I can run a 26 - 13 or a 19- 11 depending on my race


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 5:31 am 
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Location: Finland
T&A Specialities Kheops may be?

It may be that 24 is biggest option.

Look here:

http://www.starbike.com

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:12 am 
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Location: Holland
Maybe you can buy a 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 23 - 25 Dura - Ace or Ultegra cassette, take the 13 away and add a 28 that you drill out a bit...

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 8:46 am 
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Location: Anchorage, AK
asphaltdude wrote:
Maybe you can buy a 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 23 - 25 Dura - Ace or Ultegra cassette, take the 13 away and add a 28 that you drill out a bit...


That is a great idea! thanks, i think i will give that a try. :D


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 10:42 am 
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Location: Holland
jer wrote:
asphaltdude wrote:
Maybe you can buy a 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 17 - 19 - 21 - 23 - 25 Dura - Ace or Ultegra cassette, take the 13 away and add a 28 that you drill out a bit...


That is a great idea! thanks, i think i will give that a try. :D


I'll use that combi too, when I go to the Elzas region in 2 weeks (with 38-53 up front)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 10:49 am 
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Location: Mainhattan
It is a long time since I tried last time, but somehow I seem to remember that it is quite difficult to drill holes in hardned steel cogs. I do remember destroying more drills than the number of holes that I was actually able to make.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 10:55 am 
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Location: Holland
Image

This one's 85 grams :roll:

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 Post subject: Cycle Dynamics
PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2004 1:36 pm 
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You can get a 28t Cycle Dynamics cog to go on the back

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2004 2:21 pm 
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How much did you wait for your Cycledinamics ti cassette? I ordered mine on march and Im still waiting for it!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2004 6:33 pm 
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my only worry is if the 28t cog will cut the freehub body because it is not attached to an alloy carrier. I think i am going to try to JB weld or screw it to a splined spacer


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2004 6:46 pm 
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Location: Holland
jer wrote:
my only worry is if the 28t cog will cut the freehub body because it is not attached to an alloy carrier. I think i am going to try to JB weld or screw it to a splined spacer


What kind of freehub body do you have?
I've used a 28 t cog without any carrier on an old 8 speed Shimano Ultegra 600 hub for 2 weeks in the Alps and no problems...

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2004 10:25 am 
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Location: Anchorage, AK
I will be using it on an American Classic. The freehub bodies on those are, i believe, aluminum. I think the ultegra is steel. I have seen xtr (ti) freehub bodies cut into a little by loose cogs so I want to see if i can solve that problem before it is one.


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Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2004 10:25 am 


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 1:14 am 
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Cobalt drill bits will work in steel, but they seem to get dull pretty fast. My application was drilling out some seized steel bolts, and I had much better success with straight flute carbide drill bits from J&L industrial supply. Carbide bits are pricey, but this is WW right? You should use eye and breathing protection when drilling as carbide tools contain boron.
http://www.jlindustrial.com/search/searchresults.jsp;jsessionid=BCJK4YH5040R1LAUBIWSFEVMCQFCYIV0?_requestid=181151

Quote:
Use for drilling hardened steel 45-65 Rockwell “C” scale
• Straight flute makes this drill ideal for cutting difficult-to-machine and abrasive materials such as nickel base material, titanium alloys, stainless steels and cast iron
• The straight flute design provides maximum rigidity and reduces tool deflection
• Available sizes 3/64" to 1/2"
• Available in 140º and 135º point angles


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