Best 6.8kg bike on a $3,000 to $4,000 budget?

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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larryj1969
Posts: 39
Joined: Sat Jul 17, 2004 10:46 pm
Location: Eugene, OR

by larryj1969

Hey guys,

I'm looking to buy a 15lb to 15.5lb on a $3k to $4k budget. I’ve been checking out the follow bikes a my local bike shop in OR, USA:

Cannondale Six13
Cannondale R3000
Giant TCR Composite
Calfee Tetra
Co Motion Ristretto
(all equipped with dura ace 10)

Any comments on these bikes?

It's starting to look like that most of these bikes might go over my budget once I start substituting components to get close to a 6.8kg weight.

If you were on my budget, what bike would you buy or build?

Should I buy from my local bike shop or are there any lower priced online dealers out there worth giving a shot.

Thanks for the help.

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saletel
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Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2004 8:43 pm

by saletel

i vote the r3000.... very nice bike for 3500. the 3000 six13 cant touch it.

by Weenie


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Samu Ilonen
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Location: Finland
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by Samu Ilonen

I would buy some Cannondale. More sizes for good fit and they ride better than Giant's. Calfee was tested on Tour-mag and frame was not good...

Remember, it's not so easy go to 6.8kg as it may look if you are building safe and race durability bike. And reasonable sized...If you not race, why 6.8kg?

My friend was little disapointed in last summer when he build new bike:
-Giant Composite frame/fork,M-size 1060/350
-Giant composite seat post/stem/bar=hight €€€
-Full 9 speed D-A
-Ksyrium SL wheels
-TIME Impact Mag ti pedals
-SLR seat
-Michelin Pro Race tyres....

That thing weighted 7.2kg!!!! Not 6.8kg....

Pix about it. With my Lightweight wheels. They cut ~650g...so in pix it's 6.55kg. Some may think it's not light even now but it feels "funny" light...

Image

So most weight savings will come on wheels+tyres, tubular ones. Then you should shaw brake pad liners off, they damage hight profile rims. And they are useless. On my Recod pads, they weight 8g/4 pieces. They R.I.P now.
Seat+seatpost,
Cannondale uses USE? That's good. SLR is best solution for light seat. I have AX-lightness Pallas but it cost 4X SLR and saves 55g...and SLR is way better to ride. In race Pallas is good but base rides, I could use somethin softer...
stem, may be bars. (I would look Syntace F99/3TTT Prima 199 set for ~300g combo)
Rear brake could be changed to Cane Creek 200SL or similar...use D-A on front! That the way for racing...you need good brakes.
Q-releases,I use Tune's, 53g pair(full ti, not alloy!). Works as you see Jan U uses them also but look how is thightening them, they are not Mavic's.
Pedals, TIME Impact Mag ti or Speedplay.

If you don't ride hard or race and live in Nederderland (no hills) you could use some stupid light parts but I wouldn't.

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Superlite
Posts: 2492
Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2003 9:01 pm

by Superlite

Here's the only bike that is the weight you want in your price range.

Image

http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?LPRO ... eferpage=#

At $3099 it's a super deal, as long as you don't mind the in house brand name.

bobalou
Posts: 1013
Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 6:05 am

by bobalou

I've got the TCR composite, it's a great bike for the money stock out of the box. The TCR composite aero seatpost and stem suck and are heavy. I bought a frameset and built it up myself and spent less then 4k and it weighs less then 6.8kg. Rides great, excellent vibration damping, not the most stable bike I've ridden on decents but good enough. Climb's like a cheetah. I've heard at least one person on this board crab about the integrated headset and limited sizes but they just don't like Giants and like to trash them. I've had no problems with the headset (nor do I know of anyone that has in my relatively small sample set of 12-15 guys I know that own a Giant) and have been able to get a perfect fit with relatively minor adjustments .. just my experience.

Just a side note: Fuji Team Superlight. Fuji claims 15lbs (for 56) weight but I don't know the actual weight. It's not on your list but for around $2k it's super cheap. Maybe you get what you pay for though. :?

ShinyBaldy
Posts: 478
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2004 8:31 pm

by ShinyBaldy

bobalou wrote:. I've heard at least one person on this board crab about the integrated headset and limited sizes but they just don't like Giants and like to trash them. I've had no problems with the headset (nor do I know of anyone that has in my relatively small sample set of 12-15 guys I know that own a Giant) and have been able to get a perfect fit with relatively minor adjustments .. just my experience.

Just a side note: Fuji Team Superlight. Fuji claims 15lbs (for 56) weight but I don't know the actual weight. It's not on your list but for around $2k it's super cheap. Maybe you get what you pay for though. :?



Trashing integrated headsets? They're increasingly common thesedays - and certainly better than the unique headset 5900 used before last year.... initially there were concerns about different standards in integrated headsets, but now it is pretty clear which standards are going to be around.

odd

bobalou
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 6:05 am

by bobalou

ShinyBaldy wrote:
Trashing integrated headsets? They're increasingly common thesedays - and certainly better than the unique headset 5900 used before last year.... initially there were concerns about different standards in integrated headsets, but now it is pretty clear which standards are going to be around.

odd


I don't disagree with you .. I'm talking specifically about the FSA which Giant uses, not integrated headsets in general.

C-40
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by C-40

For an intelligent criticsim of integrated headsets, read what Chris King thinks of them..........link to follow if I can find it.

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Oenk
Posts: 84
Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 2:52 pm

by Oenk

C-40 wrote:For an intelligent criticsim of integrated headsets, read what Chris King thinks of them..........link to follow if I can find it.


http://www.chrisking.com/pdfs/Int%20Headsets%20Explained.pdf

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Samu Ilonen
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by Samu Ilonen

Integrated HS would be nice if it uses press fit cups like Zero Stack from Cane Creek, it had one reasonable standard like normal 1.1/8" has,shops have tool to clean HS places in frames,weight would be same totally (frame+fork+spacer+bearings=IHS is heavy!) and bearing quality/strenght is same lever like ordinary King Head sets.

Int.HS is lot of cheaper to make, beefier look,(not always nice...TT-frame with that? Head tube looks like Coke can!) and drop gategory "always something new to sell"....

It's sad that I was released with so much to improve. 6 Sizes etc...

I have to wait few years that. While that I use King's only.

5ive
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 1:54 pm

by 5ive

If weight is the only factor to take into consideration, try the following:
1. Giant TCR Zero.
2. American Classic 350's.
3. FSA Compact crank 50 / 34.
4. 11- 23 cassette.

Take the parts you have switched out and sell them on E-Bay or work out a deal with your local bike shop. A good (smart) shop is not going to lose a sale by not working with you on part selection. I would bet that this bike would be under your 15.5 pound limit. Best of luck on your choice.
BTW You should be under your $4,000 limit.

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Samu Ilonen
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by Samu Ilonen

11-19 9-speed would be lighter...who needs 23 on rear if front is 34/50?

:wink:

5ive
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Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 1:54 pm

by 5ive

In reference to Samu's post. I suppose you are correct that one would save about 10 to 15 grams by using an 11-19. Is that pratical gearing for anyone who happens to ride where there are hills or mountains? The 50 / 34 Como gives a wide range of gearing and saves weight. What gearing do you use and what is the percentage of grade on the hills where you ride?

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Samu Ilonen
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by Samu Ilonen

That was joke!

I use that 11-19 on time trials for perfect gear ratios.

It also depend you fitness level/climbing speed/cadense what you need.

by Weenie


5ive
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2004 1:54 pm

by 5ive

Samu,
Sorry I missed the joke Samu. You are correct. 5

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