The tubular sealant thread.

Everything about building wheels, glueing tubs, etc.
allerge99
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 01, 2006 9:43 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Tx

by allerge99

Out of the 4 flat tubulars it fixed 2 of them and the other is sort of fixed. One of the tubs ended up being a total loss because it was damaged around the valve so I didn't even attempt to fill it. One of them is very slowly leaking still. The other two are holding up fine but one of them did blow up the other day while I was on the trainer. The casing had split where the puncture was and a little bit of tube gradually worked its way through and it got it to the point when it just popped again. Unfortunately when it blew I was on the trainer in the kitchen and latex goop blew everywhere. The goop is water based so it wasn't that bad to clean up but it did scare the heck out of me when it blew.

I found that you can get two repairs out of 1 can. The top of the can likes to stay stuck to the valve stem sometimes causing latex goop to go all over the place. So make sure you hold the top of the can (the plastic part) when you are taking it off, just don't grab the can and yank. I'd also still bring a pump or a CO2 with me to inflate fully.

Overall it worked well and I would definitely bring it with me when I am out on the road. I'd say out of the three tires I actually used it on it held 2 fine (until that one blew up) and another ok enough to gimp home on if need be.

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Frasertri
Posts: 198
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:54 pm
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

by Frasertri

Pretty much all tubies have a removeable valve core.. That's how I put the Stans in my Tufo's, removing the valve core and squeezing it in thru a syringe & IV catheter. That allows the displaced air to escape between the valve body and catheter, without the Stan's splurging out (using the spout on the Stans bottle) and making a big mess. :x

On pressure, I used Stans to seal Tufo's and pumped them up to 180psi with good results. 8)

by Weenie


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mrowkoob
Posts: 1487
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:35 pm
Location: Middle of nowhere, EU

by mrowkoob

Fraser tri.
Do you just use the valvecore remover from stans?
180 psi :shock:


I wonder if anyone has tried Schwalbe doc blue?
The unbearable wallet lightness of being a weightweenie

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Frasertri
Posts: 198
Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:54 pm
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio

by Frasertri

mrowkoob, I use a remover that I have in my toolbox.... Can't remember where it came from.... You can use a pair of needlenose pliers too - just be careful you only grip on the small flats and not damage the threads...

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TriRig
Posts: 329
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:56 pm

by TriRig

If you need to intentionally deflate (for air shipment), will the sealant cause a problem? That is, when you push down on your valve core to deflate, will the sealant activate, blocking your valve hole?

allerge99
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 01, 2006 9:43 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Tx

by allerge99

I deflated one of mine the other day and some pit stop goop came out when almost all of the air was out of the tire. I don't see it being thick enough to block a valve core where it would become stuck.

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
Posts: 5851
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Zenkai wrote:If you need to intentionally deflate (for air shipment), will the sealant cause a problem? That is, when you push down on your valve core to deflate, will the sealant activate, blocking your valve hole?


Hi,

Yes, it will treat the valve hole as if it was a puncture. If you can remove the valve core you than will have to clean with a solvent such as white spirit.
Also, the remaining liquid latex will tend to stick the opposing walls of the inner tube together which is why you'd better use a handpump to reinflate and not a brute force approach such as from a CO2 cannister.

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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TriRig
Posts: 329
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:56 pm

by TriRig

fdegrove wrote:
Zenkai wrote:If you need to intentionally deflate (for air shipment), will the sealant cause a problem? That is, when you push down on your valve core to deflate, will the sealant activate, blocking your valve hole?


Hi,

Yes, it will treat the valve hole as if it was a puncture. If you can remove the valve core you than will have to clean with a solvent such as white spirit.
Also, the remaining liquid latex will tend to stick the opposing walls of the inner tube together which is why you'd better use a handpump to reinflate and not a brute force approach such as from a CO2 cannister.

Ciao, :wink:


I'm not talking about removing the core, just deflating as normal. alerge99 seems to think it's not a huge problem, but it might be bad news if doing multiple deflates/reinflates over the course of a trip, right?

allerge99
Posts: 159
Joined: Mon May 01, 2006 9:43 pm
Location: Fort Worth, Tx

by allerge99

I don't think it will make the valve stick if left un screwed for a little while. When I deflated a tub completely just a little bit came out and the pit stop stuff is like a latex base glue. It doesn't get hard, it stays soft and pliable.

The amount that you loose with deflating the tire is negligible when you see how much is in that tub. When the one blew up on me on the trainer (see above) I was amazed how much pit stop goop was in there.

I would also use a hand pump to reinflate the tub after it has been flattened and has sat for a while.

After filling a tub up the other day I ck'd to see how much air I had in the tub with my pump and it was about 80 psi.

On the other hand, I think pit stop is a good way to get you home if you get a flat during a ride. I don't think I would continue to ride on the tub with pit stop in it. If you get a flat again you are going to have to replace the tub because the pit stop didn't work that time. My $.02.

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
Posts: 5851
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Zenkai wrote:
fdegrove wrote:
Zenkai wrote:If you need to intentionally deflate (for air shipment), will the sealant cause a problem? That is, when you push down on your valve core to deflate, will the sealant activate, blocking your valve hole?


Hi,

Yes, it will treat the valve hole as if it was a puncture. If you can remove the valve core you than will have to clean with a solvent such as white spirit.
Also, the remaining liquid latex will tend to stick the opposing walls of the inner tube together which is why you'd better use a handpump to reinflate and not a brute force approach such as from a CO2 cannister.

Ciao, :wink:


I'm not talking about removing the core, just deflating as normal. alerge99 seems to think it's not a huge problem, but it might be bad news if doing multiple deflates/reinflates over the course of a trip, right?


Hi,

That's not what I'm saying either. I mean, if you can't remove the core you may have a problem in that the latex will block it to the point where you won't be able to reinflate the tubular.
This is especially true if you leave the deflated tubular in that state for a prolonged period of time, long enough so the liquid can harden and obstruct the valve.
Injecting a cleansing product will likely damage the innertube so you're stuck with a dud unless you can build up enough airpressure to blow it through the core into the tyre....

If you can remove the core you can clean it with a spirit and that's quite often the end of that even though I've seen cases where the entire bottom of the stem was blocked off with hardened liquid, piercing it with a blunt object cleared it for a while.

In general deflating the tyre is not recommended once the tyre has been treated either preemptively or for a repair as the inner walls will collapse and tend to bond to each other. This is why I mentioned that care should be taken when reinflating. Go slow here and chances are you'll do just fine.

In the course of a multiple flat within say a day it's no big deal as the liquid won't have enough time to solidify to the full.

Cheers, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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TriRig
Posts: 329
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:56 pm

by TriRig

fdegrove wrote:In general deflating the tyre is not recommended once the tyre has been treated either preemptively or for a repair as the inner walls will collapse and tend to bond to each other. This is why I mentioned that care should be taken when reinflating. Go slow here and chances are you'll do just fine.

So, a partial deflate (say to 50-60psi) would probably be OK then, right? That would be high enough to prevent tire collapse, and low enough to prevent high-altitude explosion.

Rickyfirst
Posts: 381
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2004 4:47 pm
Location: Belgium

by Rickyfirst

fdegrove wrote:
Zenkai wrote:
fdegrove wrote:
Zenkai wrote:If you need to intentionally deflate (for air shipment), will the sealant cause a problem? That is, when you push down on your valve core to deflate, will the sealant activate, blocking your valve hole?


Hi,

Yes, it will treat the valve hole as if it was a puncture. If you can remove the valve core you than will have to clean with a solvent such as white spirit.
Also, the remaining liquid latex will tend to stick the opposing walls of the inner tube together which is why you'd better use a handpump to reinflate and not a brute force approach such as from a CO2 cannister.

Ciao, :wink:


I'm not talking about removing the core, just deflating as normal. alerge99 seems to think it's not a huge problem, but it might be bad news if doing multiple deflates/reinflates over the course of a trip, right?


Hi,

That's not what I'm saying either. I mean, if you can't remove the core you may have a problem in that the latex will block it to the point where you won't be able to reinflate the tubular.
This is especially true if you leave the deflated tubular in that state for a prolonged period of time, long enough so the liquid can harden and obstruct the valve.
Injecting a cleansing product will likely damage the innertube so you're stuck with a dud unless you can build up enough airpressure to blow it through the core into the tyre....

If you can remove the core you can clean it with a spirit and that's quite often the end of that even though I've seen cases where the entire bottom of the stem was blocked off with hardened liquid, piercing it with a blunt object cleared it for a while.

In general deflating the tyre is not recommended once the tyre has been treated either preemptively or for a repair as the inner walls will collapse and tend to bond to each other. This is why I mentioned that care should be taken when reinflating. Go slow here and chances are you'll do just fine.

In the course of a multiple flat within say a day it's no big deal as the liquid won't have enough time to solidify to the full.

Cheers, :wink:


To avoid theses problems, I'm always stock my wheels with the valve up and don't put too much latex in the tube.

I'm also using Notubes latex which contains a little amount of amoniac to avoid as much as possible the hardenning of the liquid latex.

fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
Posts: 5851
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

Rickyfirst wrote:
fdegrove wrote:
Zenkai wrote:
fdegrove wrote:
Zenkai wrote:If you need to intentionally deflate (for air shipment), will the sealant cause a problem? That is, when you push down on your valve core to deflate, will the sealant activate, blocking your valve hole?


Hi,

Yes, it will treat the valve hole as if it was a puncture. If you can remove the valve core you than will have to clean with a solvent such as white spirit.
Also, the remaining liquid latex will tend to stick the opposing walls of the inner tube together which is why you'd better use a handpump to reinflate and not a brute force approach such as from a CO2 cannister.

Ciao, :wink:


I'm not talking about removing the core, just deflating as normal. alerge99 seems to think it's not a huge problem, but it might be bad news if doing multiple deflates/reinflates over the course of a trip, right?


Hi,

That's not what I'm saying either. I mean, if you can't remove the core you may have a problem in that the latex will block it to the point where you won't be able to reinflate the tubular.
This is especially true if you leave the deflated tubular in that state for a prolonged period of time, long enough so the liquid can harden and obstruct the valve.
Injecting a cleansing product will likely damage the innertube so you're stuck with a dud unless you can build up enough airpressure to blow it through the core into the tyre....

If you can remove the core you can clean it with a spirit and that's quite often the end of that even though I've seen cases where the entire bottom of the stem was blocked off with hardened liquid, piercing it with a blunt object cleared it for a while.

In general deflating the tyre is not recommended once the tyre has been treated either preemptively or for a repair as the inner walls will collapse and tend to bond to each other. This is why I mentioned that care should be taken when reinflating. Go slow here and chances are you'll do just fine.

In the course of a multiple flat within say a day it's no big deal as the liquid won't have enough time to solidify to the full.

Cheers, :wink:


To avoid theses problems, I'm always stock my wheels with the valve up and don't put too much latex in the tube.

I'm also using Notubes latex which contains a little amount of amoniac to avoid as much as possible the hardenning of the liquid latex.


Hi,

That seems like a good idea. If the inner tubes are latex then they'll deflate themselves given enough time anyway.... :wink:

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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mrowkoob
Posts: 1487
Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:35 pm
Location: Middle of nowhere, EU

by mrowkoob

I´m kinda confused. I thought prestavalves were non removable? How do you guys get stans in a road tubular?
The unbearable wallet lightness of being a weightweenie

by Weenie


fdegrove
Tubbie Guru
Posts: 5851
Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Location: Belgium

by fdegrove

mrowkoob wrote:I´m kinda confused. I thought prestavalves were non removable? How do you guys get stans in a road tubular?


Hi,

You have both removable and non-removable presta valves.
Over the past couple of years a lot of manufacturers have given up on removable cores due to manufacturing costs.
If you're facing an inner tube with a non-removable core, be that for a clincher or a tubular, you can still get the latex in through pressurized injection.
A syringe or a pump will do the trick....

Ciao, :wink:
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.

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