Anyone knows of an online source (preferably european) for the SI SRM battery?

Anyone have any tips on getting the cover fully back on? I can get it mostly on, but the plastic will not sit flush with the metal on the bottom. I have lined up the battery cutout on the bottom of the lid and also made sure no wires are getting caught underneath. I also cleaned and lubed the o-rings, and then removed any excess lube.

Thanks.

Good job -- brave man!

Funny... my zero offset is always in the mid- to high-600 range.

Sorry if I am unnecessarily confused.

It the battery for the regular SRM Pro the circular one shown in Mike's disassembly instructions?

I'm probably going to have to change one soon.

Here is what Mike Zagorski said about the rear cover install:

"they're a little fiddly... and held in place by the inner chainring which should seal it down..."

After putting on and removing the chainring - he was right - the rear lid stays in place.

Hi,
do you think the battery electrode can be disconnected involuntarily ?
Because I was riding my bike with my SRM then I saw that my left crankarm wasn't tighten as it should be (space between the botton bracket and the crankarm since I lost the cache one week ago), so I stopped and screwed it down and perhaps I hit a bit on the right crankarm (the one with the SRM) to be sure there is no space between the bb and the left crankarm.
Then, I rode 1min and saw that I had no more power/cadence.

Yesterday, I tried to unmount everything, I also tried the sensor directly on the cadence magnet in the SRM to see if it works, I also checked my sensor cable but no power/cadence displayed.
The battery has been changed 5 months ago and I only rode 800km. It worked very well before that problem so I don't think the battery is dead. The only thing I can imagine, is either I hit it too much and disconnected the battery or *f##k* the electronic.
What do you think ?

It isn't warrantied any longer, so I would like to fix it by myself.

The wires are soldered - so there is a low chance they disconnected. Open it up and take a look.

Do I need something special to close it ? (I mean, something so it remains waterproof, because I want to be sure to make a good job, not like a pig!)

No special tools, just follow the directions posted here.

For those of you interested in doing the battery replacement yourself be aware that there are more than one type of battery. Below is a photo of a SRM with FSA crank. This model was new in 2008. As you can see the orignal batteries were round, these are rectangular. This part # is: LTC-7PN-S4

Same battery as the Cannondale version.

do you need to re-calibrate the SRM after changing the battery?

_________________
The Chronic

No, the slope will not change (should not change). The zero offset will.

One has to wonder why they have the battery there? Especially since the revised wireless model, they could have used several 2032 etc..

OK - but does anyone know what is the code for the PC battery? PM battery is traceable - and obtainable in the US and EU - but what about the PowerControl battery?