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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 8:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 10:43 pm
Posts: 3
I just replaced both batteries in my sram s975 SRM, and everything seemed to go smoothly. The zero offset was right around where it had been before the thing ran low on battery, so it seemed alright. I took it out today, and 95% of the time, everything matched the numbers I was getting with my other SRM. But every once-in-a-while, the power numbers would about double for a bit (5-6 seconds), and then go below what I knew I was doing, and finally settle back around where I expected it. When this happened, I would go re-zero it, and the ZO was almost exactly what it had been before. Normally, I would blame this on the garmin trying to auto-zero it when it shouldn't, but that never happened nearly this often. On longer stretches of around constant power, this happened a lot less often, it seemed more frequent with stop-and-go.
I'm wondering if anyone's seen something like this after replacing batteries?

EDIT: Here's a screencap of what happens. The cadence data is fine, but the power spikes up for around 2 seconds, and then down to 0 for one, and then back to normal.
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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:57 pm
Posts: 3951
Location: Vicenza
Hey guys,
I've got a friend who needs to replace the battery on his PCV (see picture attached) and I told him he can use a normal battery but he's worried cause there's 3 wires; anyone can help?
Thanks in advance!

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Posted: Tue May 05, 2015 2:32 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 10, 2005 9:23 pm
Posts: 194
It looks like they added a diode. I wonder if they also severed a trace on the PCB.

I've always just used a cylindrical CR2-sized lithium ion battery with a round PCM at its base. It fits a lot better and gives you a lot more battery life. I only connected two wires, the red and black.

I guess if it was me I would desolder the diode and try with just the black and red wires. If it doesn't charge then put the diode back.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 9:00 pm 
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I had 2 PCV's. One had the Diode, one didn't, so don't suppose its too important.

My guess is it's probably there to stop the battery discharging back into the charger or wiring harness in the event of a short circuit.

Do what Squint says, its what I did.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 22, 2015 1:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2015 12:52 pm
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Hello to all,
are an athlete handbike Italian, I would like to replace the battery on my SRM handbike but can not open it, there are no cracks of any kind. can anyone help me?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2015 3:38 pm 
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Location: Houston, Texas
Not sure exactly when SRM changed the design or if this applies to the Dura Ace or Campagnolo SRMs, but when I changed the battery on my early 2013 Hollowgram SRM last month, I noticed two changes from the earlier models. First, the removable cover that protects the PCB had been moved to the outboard face of the spider, not the inboard/torque ringside. Second, although I already had the old style Keeper LTC-7PN-S4 batteries on had, the ones that I found installed were from a different manufacturer - Harris AN/PRC-152 HUB Battery lithium LTC-7PN-S4 w/ leads & plug) - and would not have required soldering.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 4:03 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:17 pm
Posts: 144
Maybe a little overtopic but my ROTOR 3D+ SRM (still with plenty battery life) has a fractured locking. Zero offset is normal and the readings are stable. I get a click from this part whenever I stand up on the pedals. I have spare lockrings, Loctite, lockring tool, vise, torquimeter and so on. I'm afraid to loose the factory calibration (don't have the tools to perform calibration here). Should I exchange the lockring myself? If so, what's the recommended torque? Thanks


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