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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 10:57 am 
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Location: Sweden
Hello, I hope someone can help me with advice, when my bikeshop mounted the seatpost on my TREK-carbonframe, the clamp kind of splintered (don't know if there is such a word in english 8) ) the top of the frame.

I havn't dared to open the clamp yet, but I have to fix it now, going on a 300 km trip on friday...

NOW I WONDER: is it OK to use epoxy glue to "fixate" the splinters, it's only at the top of the seatpost-stay???

PLEASE HELP ME...

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 Post subject: Fixes
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:08 am 
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Yes, epoxying the top of the seat tube will wurk to stop you from getting splinters. Talk to Trek and find out the max temperature the frame is able to withstand (may have to tell them you are painting it ;) ). Go to a aerospace supply and find the highest strength epoxy available, that dosn't cure over the maximum frame temperature. Attach a temperature probe inside the seat tube and cure the repair with a heat gun.

How did the shop do this? Was the seatpost a good fit for the frame?

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 Post subject: Fixes
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:08 am 


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:14 am 
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Let me state firsts that I'm not a carbon expert.

However, depending on the crack or cracks they may propagate further and deeper into the frame. On my Fondriest for instance that area is reinforced with more flexible kevlar/carbon mesh and has vertical slots cut in to deal with the compression. The slots also have a round hole at the end to prevent propagation and the thick clear coat finish is removed from the clamp area.

Are you sure it's a real crack and not damaged clear coat? (have never seen the material finish actually under the seat clamp of a Trek)

If it's really damaged I think your LBS owes you a new frame or perhaps a warranty replacement.


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 Post subject: Re: Fixes
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:18 am 
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Cyco wrote:
Yes, epoxying the top of the seat tube will wurk to stop you from getting splinters. Talk to Trek and find out the max temperature the frame is able to withstand (may have to tell them you are painting it ;) ). Go to a aerospace supply and find the highest strength epoxy available, that dosn't cure over the maximum frame temperature. Attach a temperature probe inside the seat tube and cure the repair with a heat gun.

How did the shop do this? Was the seatpost a good fit for the frame?


Cyco: Thanx for your rapid answer, but do I really have to find an aerospace supply for this, cant't think of one nearby... isn't it OK with an ordinary two-component epoxy glue?

Well the clamp "slipped" upwards over the top of the seatpost stay, it was TREK:s original clamp and a Campa seatpost of the right size...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:26 am 
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divve wrote:
...

Are you sure it's a real crack and not damaged clear coat? (have never seen the material finish actually under the seat clamp of a Trek)

If it's really damaged I think your LBS owes you a new frame or perhaps a warranty replacement.


I'm not really shure yet, as I said I have not yet opened the clamp since it was put on, but what I see "from above" is the end of the seatpost stay, where there is no clearcoat, and you can actually see the black carbon, and it looks as small splinters on the edge, I'm pretty shure it hasn't gone too far down (I hope...) :roll:

I hope I dont have to take it back to the shop, waited for a looooong time for this one...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 11:39 am 
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Well, if the people at your shop damaged it, THEY're the ones that have to repair it........

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:46 pm 
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KRAFTWERK wrote:
divve wrote:
...

Are you sure it's a real crack and not damaged clear coat? (have never seen the material finish actually under the seat clamp of a Trek)

If it's really damaged I think your LBS owes you a new frame or perhaps a warranty replacement.


I'm not really shure yet, as I said I have not yet opened the clamp since it was put on, but what I see "from above" is the end of the seatpost stay, where there is no clearcoat, and you can actually see the black carbon, and it looks as small splinters on the edge, I'm pretty shure it hasn't gone too far down (I hope...) :roll:

I hope I dont have to take it back to the shop, waited for a looooong time for this one...


I understand what area you mean now. Of course I have no way of telling but if it's just the very top edge which is a bit chipped or delaminating you could seal it off with CA (cyanoacrylate aka super glue). Any model hobby shop usually has the higher quality stuff. Usually you have the option between thin and thick compounds. Also have some acetone handy in case it flows somewhere unintended (the thin stuff is often less viscous than water).

BTW, realize that messing with your frame can be a reason for Trek to void its warranty.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:54 pm 
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Tanks for all replies, great people you forum friends.

OK superglue it is, but I think I'll wait until after the "race" and talk to my bikeshop again, I hope it won't get worse using it...

Apart from this incident, I have to say, I am very pleased with both my LBS and the 5500 frame.

Again: thank you all!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 1:57 pm 
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you might void the warranty by trying to self-repair the damage. how badly is it splintered (yes, that is a word in English)? is it just the clearcoat or deeper?
either way, they owe you a new frame. the only place on a bike where you really need to use gorilla strength is the chainring bolts.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 3:48 pm 
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Location: Austin
Post a pic if you can. That whole area is laid with multiple plies of unidirectional fabric. What you have seen is a filament become detached because some nose picking mechanic jammed the seat clamp on without paying attention to what he was doing.

How wide is the splinter and how long is the run? Is the end of it currently tucked under the clamp or sticking out the side?

The idea now would be to stop the filament from running. Would be nice to have someone with composite experience fix it for you. If you plan on having a professional fix it at some point, then place some masking tape on it and leave it alone. If you do tape it and need to remove the tape, ONLY REMOVE THE TAPE FROM THE END WHERE THE CARBON IS STILL ATTACHED!!!

If you plan to fix yourself, then PM me rather than waste everyone’s time here.

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Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 3:48 pm 


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 6:17 am 
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I really would advise that you don't do anything without bringing it to a shop first and having them see if they can warrenty it first. If you try to fix the problem yourself, you could void the warrenty. :shock:


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