Hi guys,I've just bought a 28 hole Zipp 280(303) tub rim and am gonna build it up using an AC rear ultralight hub,does anybody have this combination,so they can advise me on spoke length?I was thinking 2x drive,radial non drive,but am open to suggestions?Any advice on the build would be much appreciated.I weigh about 160 pounds.

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Ti or dye!

The Weenie formally known as CAADHEAD

The ND side of the AC Ultralight cannot take radial lacing. The cut-outs weaken the radial strength of the ND flange. Its best on the 28H to lace 2x ND side. The drive side is a solid flange and the hub body is 27.5mm OD with a bore of 25mm so it has high torsional stiffnesss. This allows you to use highly swaged spokes (2-1.5mm) on the drive side because of greater torque transfer to the ND side.

If you search for "Harris Cyclery" and "Damon Rinard", you will find a spreadsheet that has all the hub and rim data you need PLUS its macro enabled to auto input the dimensions into a sheet that auto-calculates the spoke length for crossings from 0 (radial) to 5x(impossible to lace).

Look AM.C web site-->Tech-> spoke lengt chart.

There is all combinations for Zipp 280/Am.C hubs.

Front radial is always 280mm if I remember.

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Samu @ www.signature.fi

Thanks guys,I forgot that the carbon AC wheels are Zipp rims.I see that AC use DT Revolution on the ND and Competition on the D,which seems to be the opposite to what Weisse is saying,which I read as using the lighter spoke on the driveside as the flange is much stiffer.Have I got that right?

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Ti or dye!

The Weenie formally known as CAADHEAD

Use DT Revolutions all around for the AC lightweight hub. 2 cross lacing works well but you can go to 1 cross or even RADIAL on the drive side since the flange is solid. If you go radial on the drive side, all spokes will be heads in, further balancing tension.

The downside of radial spoking is the spoke elbows with slightly rotate in the holes and this could lead to fretting of the hubs. You need to keep the flanges clean, lubricating with dry moly lubricant. This lube is available in spray form from industrial suppliers. It is non-greasy when dry. Shake it well and spray a small amount in a cup. Apply a tiny drop to each spoke head, filling the hole to keep dirt out and lubricate. ALthough moly disulfide looks like graphite, it is non-condctive where graphite leads to seroius corrosion. Never use graphite on aluminum!

Moly is also great on aluminum nipples when used with eyeletless rims. Spokefreeze on the threads, though.

Please use the spreadsheet!

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/spocalc.htm

Thanks,this information has really helped me,the only thing that I'm still not sure about is the spoke nipples,I realise I need to get nipples with hexagon heads,but what length do I need?and should I stick with brass or go for alloy?

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Ti or dye!

The Weenie formally known as CAADHEAD

If you use aluminum nipples, you need to use a special lubricant to prevent galling which increases nipple torque greatly. Even hex headed nipples will fail if you don't.

What you need is an extreme pressure lubricant. Anti-seize works well but is very messy as it is fine aluminum powder in a sulfurated grease. Hypoid gear oil is somewhat less messy but still attracts dust and that smell! Dry moly spray is my favorite as it is only messy until it drys and that takes only seconds in the sun. Don't use it indoors. If you don't want the wrench shanks sprayed, drill small holes in a block of soft wood to hold the spokes. Plug the thread holes with toothpicks and plunge the nipple shanks in the block of wood so the spray will only coat the bearing areas of the nipple. This sounds like a bit of work but with a drill press, it takes only minutes. And grease-free wheels are worth it.
If you cannot find it locally, Mcmaster Carr has it under part# 1436K51 for $5.88 per 12 oz can. http://www.mcmaster.com

Thanks,what length are the nipples?

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Ti or dye!

The Weenie formally known as CAADHEAD