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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 4:20 am 
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drool another pound.... i think i should finish paying for it first. $1200 to go woooo!


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Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 4:20 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 4:33 pm 
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Location: Santa Monica, CA
I don't think the Am Classic BB is available in 102mm ISO taper for Campy cranks. So FRM, PMP, Zerolite or Phil Wood BB's would be the lighter alternatives.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:25 pm 
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Location: Belgium
I should take Tune skewers 49g and normal, not turning to tighten it like USE and a Extralite seatpost: 2 bolts, 139g in 250mm


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 7:35 pm 
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Location: Colorado
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I should take Tune skewers 49g and normal, not turning to tighten it like USE


Hav you tried the USE's? There awsome. Just cause they turn doens't mean they are bad. They use a special threading that has double the pitch of standard threads, meaning fast on, fast off, no fussing around getting the QR's in the right posistion to get them closed.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 8:43 pm 
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Location: Belgium
I more like the standard design, feeling safer too for some reason.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 9:06 pm 
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its a 2 degree taper on the bottom bracket, which is the same as campy right? anyway 103 vs 102 is not much especially with an adjustable cup.

also the Record Carbon cranks made in Italy?

when i finished building it up. out local old racer guy came in, who was picking up his new Fondreist Carbon frame built up with record and the aluminum record cranks... he was really liking the carbon cranks.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 12:30 am 
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ye olde balde one is right about the ac ti bb. it is a 103mm, and the taper is jis. i have seen folks use the ac bb with campy cranks but you will mess up the taper, and after that, only be able to use the crank with the ac bb. there are other alternatives.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 6:52 am 
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Superlite wrote:
Quote:
I should take Tune skewers 49g and normal, not turning to tighten it like USE


Hav you tried the USE's? There awsome. Just cause they turn doens't mean they are bad. They use a special threading that has double the pitch of standard threads, meaning fast on, fast off, no fussing around getting the QR's in the right posistion to get them closed.

But the USE's won't work on a hooded rear dropout, one would not be able to turn the skewer around....

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 6:56 am 
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Location: Colorado
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But the USE's won't work on a hooded rear dropout, one would not be able to turn the skewer around....


What do you mean? What hood? I'm pretty sure they work on every road bike out there. Have you used these, maybe your not familiar with how they work.

saletal and I have the same frameset, they work just fine on my bike.

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Last edited by Superlite on Tue Apr 13, 2004 7:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 7:22 am 
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Superlite wrote:
Quote:
But the USE's won't work on a hooded rear dropout, one would not be able to turn the skewer around....


What do you mean? What hood? I'm pretty sure they work on every road bike out there.

saletal and I have the same frameset, they work just fine on my bike.


On a hooded "Breezer" or "Wright" style rear dropout like this, by Paragon or Arctos Machine, etc., how does one spin the skewer around the hood?
Image

On a conventional rear droput, of course they would work:
Image

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 7:24 am 
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Is the hood on both side, the twisting part goes on the non driveside of the bike. Either way, there is a spacer that puts the arm out from the bike about a cm, so clearance shouldn't be an issue I don't think.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2004 7:37 am 
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I know the lever arm goes on the non-drive side. :roll: Yes, the hoods are on both rear stays. It's a hood at 90 degrees to the dropout, that the stays are welded to. It provides strength, but it does restrict movement in a circle. So, how does the skewer spin arm clear the hood as it revolves? (Unless the lock nut (spacer) is deep enough that it clears the hood first, on the USE I don't know.) But even a typical cam skewer lever arm will only work in certain orientations...I know, my stays have these dropouts.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2004 2:53 am 
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cadence90, i have these style dropouts on my giant tcr. in the interest of lighter weight :), i substituted my use qrs which didn't work too well on the rear, for a pair of control-tech ti qrs. the allen key tightening can be a pain, but at 49 grams a pair, they are cheap, and a good upgrade.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2004 3:21 am 
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jim wrote:
cadence90, i have these style dropouts on my giant tcr. in the interest of lighter weight :), i substituted my use qrs which didn't work too well on the rear, for a pair of control-tech ti qrs. the allen key tightening can be a pain, but at 49 grams a pair, they are cheap, and a good upgrade.

Yes, I may go that way again too, I've been thinking about it. The CT's are light (to be completely fair to WW: of course not as light if one carries the allen key on board, which I did, so you kind of are robbing Peter to pay Paul), strong, and unless one is switching wheels often (I'm not), the allen key "speed" isn't much of an issue.
Heck, by the time I've lined up my qr lever arm the way I like it, I could have tightened down the allen key: you stick it in and spin; it's the hooded dropout version of SpinStix, in a way. :P
I would guess the tune's work OK on hooded dropouts, since the lever arm is in the center of the qr, and it looks like it sticks out enough before turning? I've never put a pair of tune's on to see....
[EDIT]: looking at the tune's again, maybe they wouldn't work in all orientations either...

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