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 Post subject: Scott CR1
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 1:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:50 pm
Posts: 58
the light fork is hopelessly weak. (not for persons over 70 kg).
At the moment I'm rebuilding my Cr1 (It was 6.1 kg with lightweight/Easton EC 90 slx) with reliable parts that will result in a weight of approx. 6.8 kg.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 2:11 pm 
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Dr.Dos wrote:
The black coating should have been gone for good even if the wheels have only 1-2 thousend miles on them. At least that would happen here, 500 miles north of Switzerland.

I remember him answering to this question back in another thread. He said he simply used black permanent waterproof marker


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Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 2:11 pm 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:59 am
Posts: 1386
Location: Sydney, Australia
6.8 is legal 8)

My CR1 is just over 7 at the moment, but I'm prioritising my weightloss to ensure performance improvements.

I weigh 70kg

Brian


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 11:30 am
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Location: Sweden
spaniardclimber wrote:
Dr.Dos wrote:
The black coating should have been gone for good even if the wheels have only 1-2 thousend miles on them. At least that would happen here, 500 miles north of Switzerland.

I remember him answering to this question back in another thread. He said he simply used black permanent waterproof marker


Hey! that might add 0,5 grams! 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 7:13 am
Posts: 2169
Location: Finland
Muhahaaa!!!

" I use my bike as "everyday" trainingsbike and such wheels aren't what you would use there"

Tire (Rear): Continental Supersonic 700x20 140

They last less than 200g Tufo tubulars. I ridder 23mm models to end little 1000km...ten rides???? And Supersonic's don't even roll good!

"Brakes: Zero-Gravity 187"

Or should we call them Zero force? these brakes IN land with mountains??

"Bottle Cage: Tune Wasserträger incl. 2 Al-bolts 9"

They tend to loose. I changed to steel bolts with Locktite. Now they work fine. I use 0.75L bottles and race...

"Cables: Shimano / Tune Plastic Housing 88"

Are you boys sure that they don't flex?

"Chain: Shimano Dura-Ace 268 (to be replaced with a KMC 10X which should weigh no more than 255g)"

Why not C10 or C10 Ultra? They would last longer and are light...

"Derlr (Front) Dura-Ace Braze-on 71 (to be replaced with 04 Campa Carbon 69g)
Derlr (Rear) Campagnolo Record 10s 191"

I have 2004' models...187/71g.

"Seat: AX-Lightness Sprint 68 (to be replaced by 44g Tune Saddle) "

Any pix from that Tune Saddle?

Nice but only for light rider. Fork,bb, pedals,cassette...no sprints with these.

Nice bike but bad wheels and fork. Too much limitation to me but sure it's light.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2004 9:29 pm 
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Location: München
Samu Ilonen wrote:
"Bottle Cage: Tune Wasserträger incl. 2 Al-bolts 9"

They tend to loose. I changed to steel bolts with Locktite. Now they work fine. I use 0.75L bottles and race...

I can't see how changing the material of the bolt will influence the tendency to loosen on that place. The carbon is compressed by the bolt and will "flow" under the pressure, so any bolt will loosen if not secured otherwise. Regardless of the material used for the bolt.
Tune recommends to use loctite blue btw.

Martin

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:34 am 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 7:13 am
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Location: Finland
But Tune's alloy screws have weak Phillips heads. They couldn't hold them enought with big bottles and racing. Now 10.8 hard steel with hex heads. Not heavy in M5X12...

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Last edited by Samu Ilonen on Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:43 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:38 am 
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Location: Drenthe, Holland
My tune bottlecage came with two Al. hex screws. Ive never seen them with philips heads :shock:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 10:46 am 
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Location: Finland
Ok....it seem that I have some old models. They were bought in 1,5 years ago. Glad to hear that they have upgradet those screws.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 1:34 pm 
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You might need a better screw driver :P I have two sets with phillips heads on my MTB. They don't come loose. The current hex although more convenient to tighten is still just a screw.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 2:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 4:32 am
Posts: 39
Location: St. Louis, USA
kinda off topic, but I just got through a horror story with my tune cages (otherwise very happy with them, used em for years).

The loctite held the bolt in so well that it spun the riveted bottle boss in the frame when removing! This was only a few days after installation. I couldn't get that sucker out and it eventually stripped the head of the bolt when I held the rivet securely with pliers. I thought I was going to have to drill my frame and replace the rivet, but I was able to drill the soft bolt out and re-tighten the rivet with a bottle boss install tool. I expect I can't be the first to have this problem occur. I used a conservative about of loctite, one drop on the threads, one in the boss. I would conclude that my rivets just suck, but the bolt stripped too.

Needless to say I was quite nervous drilling my Wilier Mortirolo. Love the cages otherwise, and now just use a bit of grease to install and check every month or so for loosening.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 7:16 pm 
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Location: Finland
divve wrote:
You might need a better screw driver :P


BTW, I use screw drivers by profession. I build prototype elektronics...I know how to use it and I have very good tools... :wink:

I have no problem with with Loctite...since all my frames are full titanium and bottle cage post are welded. Only right way to do it....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 8:56 pm 
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If you like to stay on the safe side you could use low-strength Loctite 222 or even Vibra-Tite would work okay.

tyson12zoll wrote:
kinda off topic, but I just got through a horror story with my tune cages (otherwise very happy with them, used em for years).

The loctite held the bolt in so well that it spun the riveted bottle boss in the frame when removing! This was only a few days after installation. I couldn't get that sucker out and it eventually stripped the head of the bolt when I held the rivet securely with pliers. I thought I was going to have to drill my frame and replace the rivet, but I was able to drill the soft bolt out and re-tighten the rivet with a bottle boss install tool. I expect I can't be the first to have this problem occur. I used a conservative about of loctite, one drop on the threads, one in the boss. I would conclude that my rivets just suck, but the bolt stripped too.

Needless to say I was quite nervous drilling my Wilier Mortirolo. Love the cages otherwise, and now just use a bit of grease to install and check every month or so for loosening.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:02 pm 
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Location: München
Samu Ilonen wrote:
Ok....it seem that I have some old models. They were bought in 1,5 years ago. Glad to hear that they have upgradet those screws.

i got two sets of BTPs, both came with Philipshead bolts.
Samu, how do the bottles fit in your Tunes when you use hexheads? My BTPs rely on the bolts head beeing level with the fibre

Martin

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 Post subject:
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:02 pm 


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 09, 2004 9:08 pm 
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Location: Finland
Bolt shape is same as on Phillips screws. Nothing else different that tool hole, to hex.

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