Removing an FSA BB30 to BSA bottom bracket adapter - anyone tried it?

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alcatraz
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by alcatraz

Hey WWs

I'm considering buying a frame that has one of these adapters installed (with the fsa provided gap filler. Probably some kind of loctite.)

Image

My question is how hard it is to remove one of these?

I'm thinking attack with a hairdryer. Get it nice and warm like 60-70 degrees. Then either go at it with a mallet alone or just hang a decent weight and try to have it slide out (with a few taps to get it going).

What do you think? What's the melting temperature of most loctite gap fillers?

/a

Edit: I just checked the temperature resistance of loctite 609 (not sure 609 was used, just that it was the loctite in the conversion kit). The temperature resistance of 609 is 150 degrees celsius. If I need to go to 150 degrees I risk melting the resin and screw up the frame.

What do you think?

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ms6073
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by ms6073

Having seen one removed at a shop with the proper tools, I was able to remove an E13 variant from a mountain bike frame a couple years ago using a Park Tool headset press and two short sections of pvc pipe of different diameters - one as a drift and the other as a sleeve. The insert came out with no issues, but it did not have any retaining fluid (gap filler) as a bonding agent.
Last edited by ms6073 on Wed Jan 31, 2018 2:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Valbrona
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by Valbrona

A suitable drift is key here - can't think of one straight off.

But then lots of short/sharp taps as opposed to big whallop with mallet.

And then if it looks really stuck, abandon project - but by which time you might have damaged adapter threads.

alcatraz
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by alcatraz

Thanks for the tips you two. I like the idea of using a headset press.

How about screwing in a bsa cup and then use a headset/bb press with a large diameter spacer (like 46 inner diameter) on the other side. Add some force to the press and simply start heating up and see if it starts moving by itself.

I guess the hard part is for the backside of the press to press against the sleeve and not the carbon. Thats a tricky one...

/a

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ms6073
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by ms6073

Also, I would really recommend using the headset press in concert with a Cannondale BB30 Adapter Insert Removal Tool (KF366). Assuming we are talking about an alloy BB30 bottom bracket shell, the inner sleeve goes on the side from which you will press from, and the outer sleeve goes on the other side of the bottom bracket, then you insert the headset press, start threading the press together, and out comes the insert - no need for a mallet.

Image
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MayhemSWE
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by MayhemSWE

Valbrona wrote:
Wed Jan 31, 2018 12:54 pm
A suitable drift is key here - can't think of one straight off.

But then lots of short/sharp taps as opposed to big whallop with mallet.
Assuming the threads don't break easily, one idea would be to screw in a Hollowtech II or GXP cup on one side to use as leverage against a BB86 removal tool (such as Park BBT-90.3). Then use a hammer/mallet and push it all out in one piece…

glepore
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by glepore

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kX-ohbnKzg

Interesting removal here-screw in a cartridge bb you don't care about and hammer away. I suspect a fully threaded cup and drift would work as well.

The 609 isn't designed as a permanent adhesive so I don't think heat is either advisable or necessary.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6.8) ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record

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Calnago
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by Calnago

Ha... I did like the guys in the last video posted by @glepore.

In the OP's case... his BB30 sleeve is apparently bonded in with Loctite 609 and, as mentioned, that's a breakable bond either by heat or mechanical impat. As far as I'm aware that bond breaks at 250 degrees Celsius, but that's neither here nor there because heat like that will just soften the resins and destroy your paint. It is best removed with sharp impact, a BIG sharp impact. I'd use a bigger hammer than the guys in the video just to lessen the chances of what happens if your aim isn't so great. And don't try to do this while the bike is in a stand, there's just not enough support. Use whatever means available to support the frame. Generally I've had success just leaning it over against a wall so that the wheels are angled toward the wall and you end up pounding towards the wall at a downward angle if that makes sense.
And as mentioned, you need to find some proper drift that will give you good contact with the edge of the sleeve. I'm thinking the threaded part inside the sleeve may not be bonded well enough to keep it from coming out without the sleeve, in the event you wanted to thread a "makeshift drift" in there but you could try it.
Anyway, why the big sharp impact over short mamby pamby taps?... firstly... mamby pamby taps will just be the equivalent of a 3 year old tugging on her mommy's skirt trying to get attention while she's talking to a friend. It "may" work, but in all likelihood a loud scream will be required (the small child equivalent of a big sharp impact). I don't like using gentle "pullers" and the like where a retaining compound has been used as it tends to give it a chance to pull away at the carbon fibers along with it, rather than just freeing it up instantly. Although, with your BB30 shell, it could very well be alloy correct?... so that's probalby not as big a concern.
Anyway, it has to come out... the tools such as @ms6073 showed above would be the proper and ideal drifts to use, along with the biggest hammer and blindfold you can find. Support, set, aim, and out she comes!
Good luck.
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glepore
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by glepore

As Cal mentioned, for this sort of thing I don't like a machinists hammer-get a good deadblow hammer, preferably 2-3 lbs. Rubber coated but heavy. One good shot.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6.8) ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record

Valbrona
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by Valbrona

I'd watch the vid.

bremerradkurier
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by bremerradkurier

Pack dry ice inside the adapter to shrink it before pushing it out?

hambini
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by hambini

I would machine it out. machine outwards until the wall of the sleeve is paper thin and then it will fall out. Some of them are epoxied not loctited in so you risk destroying the frame if you go for the hammer option and it has been epoxied.
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alcatraz
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by alcatraz

I ended up not buying the frame.

Another idea is to cut the adapter into two pieces with a dremel then pull the two pieces apart expanding a press between the bsa cups. That way the sleeve isn't stressed in one direction.

Sure it's very time consuming and only one side will come out at first. At least the stress is halved.

/a

AJS914
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by AJS914

I would have just used a BSA bottom bracket!

alcatraz
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by alcatraz

All my bikes are BB30. I like to keep things compatible. :D

/a

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