Campagnolo front derr cages.....

[Calnago]

Ok, the metal is stiff but the breaking has gotta be from jamming into the teeth on the big ring and that, to me, says the cage is simply too close. Back it off a bit and I’ll bet the problem is solved. If you simply replace it with metal and then set it in exactly the same place I predict it’s just going to be banging into the teeth on occasion the same way the carbon cage was doing. But rather than simply break, it may get caught and rip the entire braze-on out... like when the rear derailleur goes into the spokes. Realistically I doubt that would happen, but still, 2.5mm of clearance. Try it. And if you haven’t removed the broken cage yet, how about measuring the actual smallest gap between the largest teeth and the edge bottom edge of the derailleur at its narrowest point. What’s the biggest Allen key you can pass through that gap?
Tip: use the lower limit screw to hold the front derailleur edge in position directly above the teeth of the large chain ring when checking the gap.

[ColnagoEPQ]

Campagnolo made a Super Record group called RS. It was the last limited edition 5 arm crank set group. It had more tactile feel in the shift levers; stiffer springs in the levers and derailleurs. The front derailleur also had the carbon fiber cage replaced with the cage from the chorus group. This was in response from racing teams who preferred the feel of the stiffer cage.

[Calnago]

That RS group was basically "protyping" for the new 2015 groups.

[corky]

Bought and installed a chorus mech, set gap to 3 mm ....all functioning perfectly, hopefully this is all sorted. thanks to all for suggestions etc.

[dmp]

I was skeptical about the carbon cage when I first got my SR gruppo, but after thousands of miles I've not had a problem. My experience is the same as Calnago's. Mine is the earlier generation (2011 I think)- not sure if that makes a difference.

[LionelB]

I have 5 campy SR group in operation including the SR RS mentioned above. No issue with the FD cage, at all. Mine are set close to 3mm as well. 1mm never felt right to me.

[Bridgeman]

The last time the carbon cage broke I've just kept on riding. I'll eventually replace it with a chorus, or even try and modify it, but it works, even though it's a bit floppy. I've used bent metal and epoxy in the past to reattach the ends.

I purchased the Record EPS front derailleur for my new bike for this very reason.

[wilwil]

Ive had a pre 2015 break at the closed end where the carbon goes into the plastic bracket, the bracket broke. I think it was quite common for them to break there. The post 2015 does not have the plastic bracket. The cage was replaced under warranty. I think I have also had one come unstuck at this point and I glued it back together. I find the Record is stiffer than the Chorus but is more delicate. The Record also seems to work better than the Chorus.

[lethalstrike]

Sick to death of carbon front mechs breaking both record and super record, I’ve broken 4 in the last couple of years 1 Record of the current iteration and 3 of the previous, all 4 have broken the carbon outer plate at the point the chain contacts it. I am not clumsy and keep everything clean and well maintained. I suspect that the potholes/speed bumps and general shite roads we endure here cause the chain to really slap about.

Spare/replacement cages seem rarer than rocking horse shit.......at least in UK.

Does anyone know if a full metal cage like Athena/Centaur cage will fit a record/Sr mech? Thinking of buying one and swapping the cages if this is possible.

I’ve had enough......rant over.....

I bought an SR FD 2nd hand and the card was worn, so I bought an Athena (from memory) new on sale and drilled out the cage retaining rivets. Fitted it to the SR FD but it needed some washers/spacers to make it fit around the cage retaining pins and c clips. I definitely found an article on-line explaining how to do it and it was pretty straight forward. I'll try and find the link, but I've now got an SR FD with metal cage.

A

Found the link...

https://forums.thepaceline.net/archive/ ... 74438.html



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Hi Alistaird,

I was trying to do the same which you did by transplanting the metal cage from a Chorus FD to replace the chipped carbon cage of an SR FD.

I am really struggling to reassemble the bloody tension spring. I've tried to grip the short end of the spring with a needle nose piler and try to force it under the tab (highlighted in red), but can't get it to work! How did you guys manage to this transplant? Any tips is much appreciated!


delete your account page link

[alistaird]

Hi Alistaird,

I was trying to do the same which you did by transplanting the metal cage from a Chorus FD to replace the chipped carbon cage of an SR FD.

I am really struggling to reassemble the bloody tension spring. I've tried to grip the short end of the spring with a needle nose piler and try to force it under the tab (highlighted in red), but can't get it to work! How did you guys manage to this transplant? Any tips is much appreciated!


delete your account page link

Sorry missed this question. From memory I didn't have any special technique to force the spring back behind the tab. I may have used a large screwdriver pushed through the mechanism to hold the mech in a more 'open' position - but can't remember whether this was to dissasemble or re-assemble the cage.

Did you have any luck in getting it back together?

A