I don't live in LA anymore, but friends of mine posted pics of rides they've done with him and he was on disc
Certain fork/rotor combinations will cause fork shudder/judder. depending on the spacing of the gaps in the rotor and the flexibility of the fork, you can end up with fork vibration. A super stiff fork will most likely prevent the problem but then the ride quality of the bike will no be as good. I had this problem and mostly solved it by using Shimano Ice Tech rotors on the front. Sram Centerline rotors are even better in this regard but provide a bit less stopping power.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.
I fixed it or jury-rigged it anyway after the bike finally popped out. The end-caps were screwed-in medium finger-tight. I backed out both end-caps to be very loose, which increased the side-load on the caps and not the rest of the freehub. Anyway it very much is an issue because this situation can never occur with TA. Also the twisting forces with a 50lb indoor trainer that doesn’t twist with the bike is what popped the dropouts out anyway. So while it is partially a hub preload issue, it can be entirely avoided with TA.Calnago wrote: ↑Sat Dec 23, 2017 3:48 pm@TobinHatesYou: regarding your skewer/hub issue. You’ve got a few catch 22 type things going on.
To recap: your bike is coming out of your trainer. Clearly it is not clamped in well enough. You say when you have enough pressure to hold your bike properly the bearings bind. No wonder it’s falling out of the trainer or moving around in your actual bike. Part of your problem is your hub does not seem to be able to be adjusted independently of the forces being applied by a skewer, a bad design. Not good. Whether the forces are from a normal dropout skewer or a thru axle is irrelevant. A good hub will be able to be adjusted perfectly and spin the same whether it is outside of the bike/trainer or clamped very firmly in the bike/trainer. I hate hubs that do anything less.
Or perhaps you’re using a flimsy skewer. That’s an easy fix. Use a good skewer.
One final thing is that your dropouts may not be square to the axle ends.
I suspect the main issue however is the fact that your hub bearings bind if you put enough force on the wheel to hold it securely. This is simply unacceptable and forces you to try to guess just how poorly adjusted you need to set your hub/bearing adjustment off the bike for it to be acceptable when properly mounted on the bike. That’s the stuff of department store kids bikes. But it’s not a disc/non disc issue. There’s nothing simpler than a nice quick release and dropout.
Thru axles on discs are good to ensure the critically important alignment of the rotors. Not that good wheel alignment isn’t important for a rim brake bike, it’s just not quite as sensitive to it. Also, the beefier thru axle helps stabilize any twisting forces caused by the assymetrical forces that a disc brake exerts on the system.
There's nothing wrong. I loosened the hub endcaps a slight amount to just less than medium finger-tight. You don't know what you don't know, and that's ok...just don't pretend you're the expert here. The clamping force is more than enough...and there is no play in the system. It's basically a preload adjustment. I invite you to fly out here and devise a more complicated, yet worse solution. CycleOps is a bit at fault here for designing a trainer hub that can be compressed as much as it can along the axle, but I see absolutely no case for catastrophic failure with my fix.