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PostPosted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:28 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Florida
Hello everyone,

I was hoping I could get some insight and/or other people's opinions. Currently, my main road rider is a 2014 Cannondale CAADX disc slimmed down to around 17 lbs. I am looking to move to a dedicated road frame preferably in carbon, but keep all of my components.

Tempted to source an EVO Hi-Mod frame, but have seen some nice deals on the non Hi-Mod frames, but feel that I would regret not getting the Hi-Mod. I'm also open to other brands, but have a few stipulations listed below that the frame has to meet, so I don't have to source all new components.

Can anyone suggest alternatives or experiences? Here are the requirements:

High end carbon frame
bb30
disc brake
mechanical shifting
thru axle would be nice, but not mandatory

I have fizik cyrano 00 everything and would like to keep my current crankset and power meter. I am an experienced rider and know my way around, but have been having difficulty making a decision. Part of me thinks I should just keep my CAADX and call it a day, but some of those KOM's are getting more and more competitive and I hate losing, so why not throw some money at it, right? I live in Florida now and as you would imagine, everything is flat. I don't typically ride for extreme long distances, just don't have time for that, but I do quite a bit of sprinting and fast riding.


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Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 8:07 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 9:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 11:02 am
Posts: 18
Location: Surrey, UK
Very similar position and I'm getting a Filament

Costly but can choose the geo and frame details


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 1:54 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2012 1:53 pm
Posts: 67
A new Evo frameset is BB30A, not BB30.
What crankset do you have for the swap?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2017 2:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 18, 2005 6:50 pm
Posts: 259
Location: Wilmington, DE
My experience: you won't gain much if any speed getting a new 'standard' road bike. If you want to take flat KOMs, get a time trial bike and work on making power on the aerobars.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:09 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:28 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Florida
numberSix wrote:
A new Evo frameset is BB30A, not BB30.
What crankset do you have for the swap?
Good point. I currently have a Force crank with a spacer that should fit perfectly with the extra 5mm BB. Nice save though, could have been bad to drop some big money only to find out something silly like that.
joejack951 wrote:
My experience: you won't gain much if any speed getting a new 'standard' road bike. If you want to take flat KOMs, get a time trial bike and work on making power on the aerobars.
I think you might be right my man. I just didn't want to admit it, really. After drooling over these nice evo's I think the weight loss would be marginal and more of a disappointment than anything else (but would still have a sweet machine), but wouldn't be what I would expect it to be. I think the best option is to keep cranking out the watts and suck it up. Maybe I'll toss some deep section carbon wheels on and it might make up some of the difference. Or toss my bottles before a segment and get sleazy like that. Thanks for the insight :beerchug:


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 5:30 pm
Posts: 372
ToughInTheStreets wrote:
numberSix wrote:
A new Evo frameset is BB30A, not BB30.
What crankset do you have for the swap?
Good point. I currently have a Force crank with a spacer that should fit perfectly with the extra 5mm BB. Nice save though, could have been bad to drop some big money only to find out something silly like that.
joejack951 wrote:
My experience: you won't gain much if any speed getting a new 'standard' road bike. If you want to take flat KOMs, get a time trial bike and work on making power on the aerobars.
I think you might be right my man. I just didn't want to admit it, really. After drooling over these nice evo's I think the weight loss would be marginal and more of a disappointment than anything else (but would still have a sweet machine), but wouldn't be what I would expect it to be. I think the best option is to keep cranking out the watts and suck it up. Maybe I'll toss some deep section carbon wheels on and it might make up some of the difference. Or toss my bottles before a segment and get sleazy like that. Thanks for the insight :beerchug:
If you are already bottomed out in terms of stack height on the CAADX, you may be able to get lower on a road bike which, pending good flexibility and core strength, would make you faster. The position is different enough both in terms of reach and stack of most road and cross bikes that there will be a speed difference over a distance on them.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:25 am
Posts: 88
Location: Cambridge UK
depends where you ride ...

if you are doing a loop, you will have tailwind, headwind, uphill and downhill

I've got a Giant TCR but will be getting an additional bike (Scott Addict with Di2)

I've considered gettting a Scott Foil (aero), but I believe that I will get faster times on the loops/segments that I ride with a light climbing bike with light wheels and fast tubeless tyres ...

_________________
Giant TCR
Canyon Endurace AL
1981 Koga Miyata Full Pro


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Posted: Fri Dec 15, 2017 4:25 pm 


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