help installing sram red 22 crank (PF30 with bb30 spindle)

Discuss light weight issues concerning road bikes & parts.
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Allen254
Posts: 119
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:05 am

by Allen254

Im trying to install sram's red 22 crank but Im a little confused I have a Fuji sl with a PF30 so I bought kogel's pf30 BB that fits sram bb30 spindle.

According to sram I don't need any spacers only the preload, but im having a hard time understanding the preload and how it works I have like 0.5mm side play. What am I doing wrong.

by Weenie


BikeKingV1r
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Aug 03, 2017 7:55 pm

by BikeKingV1r

Should be a small Allen screw, simply loosen it and rotate the preload until the slop is gone and tighten the screw. Check and do it again if needed either too tight or loose still. I did a quick search on YouTube and here’s a link https://youtu.be/IINjQKK7INI

lyrictenor1
Posts: 12
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:53 am

by lyrictenor1

Allen254 wrote:Im trying to install sram's red 22 crank but Im a little confused I have a Fuji sl with a PF30 so I bought kogel's pf30 BB that fits sram bb30 spindle.

According to sram I don't need any spacers only the preload, but im having a hard time understanding the preload and how it works I have like 0.5mm side play. What am I doing wrong.


It wasn't clear from what you wrote: Are you installing a Red22 BB30 crank or a Red22 GXP crank?

Allen254
Posts: 119
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:05 am

by Allen254

lyrictenor1 wrote:
Allen254 wrote:Im trying to install sram's red 22 crank but Im a little confused I have a Fuji sl with a PF30 so I bought kogel's pf30 BB that fits sram bb30 spindle.

According to sram I don't need any spacers only the preload, but im having a hard time understanding the preload and how it works I have like 0.5mm side play. What am I doing wrong.


It wasn't clear from what you wrote: Are you installing a Red22 BB30 crank or a Red22 GXP crank?


yeah iam installing a sram bb30 crank (on a pf 30 frame)

Allen254
Posts: 119
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2016 3:05 am

by Allen254

BikeKingV1r wrote:Should be a small Allen screw, simply loosen it and rotate the preload until the slop is gone and tighten the screw. Check and do it again if needed either too tight or loose still. I did a quick search on YouTube and here’s a link https://youtu.be/IINjQKK7INI

yeah tried but it looks like the preload is touching/rubbing on the the BB lip. Is the crank supposed to have some kind of spacer. also do you know if the none drive side arm has a cap to fill the hole like on Shimano.


dvq
Posts: 59
Joined: Mon Sep 25, 2017 1:36 pm

by dvq

Allen254 wrote:
BikeKingV1r wrote:Should be a small Allen screw, simply loosen it and rotate the preload until the slop is gone and tighten the screw. Check and do it again if needed either too tight or loose still. I did a quick search on YouTube and here’s a link https://youtu.be/IINjQKK7INI

yeah tried but it looks like the preload is touching/rubbing on the the BB lip. Is the crank supposed to have some kind of spacer. also do you know if the none drive side arm has a cap to fill the hole like on Shimano.


On an integrated spider there should be no spacers, on a removable arm for the spider there should be some configuration of spacers -- that's not likely what you have. When you rotate your adjuster towards the "+" side, a threaded plastic lip should start screwing out towards the bottom bracket. It's easy to see here:

Image

If for some reason you have the preload adjuster on backwards or if you're rotating it in the wrong direction it could be pushing the preload body towards the bottom bracket instead. The preload adjuster in your situation should stay flush against the crankarm. The preload adjuster's inner sleeve (part with the threads) is what should be making contact with bottom bracket.

NiFTY
Posts: 1067
Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm

by NiFTY

I use the above method to determine preload for my setup. Then got a very light headset spacer (fairwheel light carbon style one) and sanded it down to the exact width of the sram screw out spacer, and slightly increased the bore - much better looking and saved about 6 grams.
Evo 5.02kg SL3 6.77 Slice RS 8.89 viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110579" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Kurets
Posts: 134
Joined: Thu Feb 25, 2016 9:55 pm

by Kurets

I did the same install using a wave washer and a bunch of .5mm shims. Just put in enough of them that there was no detectable slop once the cranks were torqued to spec.

by Weenie


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