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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 5:14 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Sunny So Cal
I know people are probably tired of another creaking noise thread. But I did my homework by searching thru this site as well as eliminated few possible suspects already. I'm hoping someone here can help me to pinpoint the root of the creaking noise.

First the noise sounds like bb creaking but I know that also apply to many other things. It only happens during seated climbing, but only after I finished the steepest part of the climb and started easing off. In other word the creaking isn't there no matter how hard I pedal, but only while I'm pedaling less hard afterward.

So far I've done the following - lubed the QR's, switched QR from Fulcrum to DA, switched crank from Pioneer DA 9100 PM to Shimano DA 9100 PM, tightened pedals, re-installed bottom bracket, re-installed seatpost with friction compound, greased all seatpost parts and tightened them to spec'd torque. But sadly the creaking is still there.

I'm now thinking about trying an Ultegra cassette since my bike has the notorious DA 9100 cassette. Does anyone know if Fulcrum wheel or its freehub creak? My bike runs Speed 40 clincher. Any other suggestions are appreciated.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:33 am 
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Posts: 1016
Also the cassette lockring. Mine did the same thing, tightened lockring - silence.

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Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:33 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 1:59 am 
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Posts: 15
try to lube cassette rivets


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:08 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 18, 2005 4:12 pm
Posts: 2969
Location: eh?
I have had similar symptoms with one of my bikes. I found two sources of noise. One was that the rear derailleur hanger had come loose. How this can happen is beyond me but indeed the two little screws had backed out a bit.

The second source of noise was my rear hub (not Fulrcrum) and in your case this could be the problem. I took apart the hub and greased all surfaces that could possible rub against other surfaces such as the ends of spacers, axle, inner bearing races. Ultimately I believe the source of the noise was the interface between the end of the axle and the end cap.

Before you tear them apart try a different wheelset to eliminate them as a problem.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:01 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2016 1:52 am
Posts: 98
Would help to know the frequency of the noise: twice per crank revolution? Once? Once per Chian revolution? Or is it irregular?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:14 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 3:30 am
Posts: 326
NiFTY wrote:
Also the cassette lockring. Mine did the same thing, tightened lockring - silence.

2nd that. did the same and i hated myself so much for that...


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:16 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 30, 2015 3:30 am
Posts: 326
did you try changing the wheel(s)? hub bearing preload problem? how about the saddle itself did you try swapping it?


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:04 am 
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Posts: 423
Cleats?

/a


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:34 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 8:21 pm
Posts: 118
Could it also be Stem/steerer/handlebar interfaces - try assembly compound in there as well - carbon bikes are notorious for 'echos' making it hard to pinpoint where the creak is coming from....

A


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 9:43 am 
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 6:55 pm
Posts: 2594
Location: Vienna, AUT
A few other suggestions:

Crankarm bolts.

Not sure what saddle you are using but check the interface between the saddle rails and shell. If they are separate items pieced together, there can often be a lot of creaking when seated and cranking away ( I am talking to you, Astute Italia!!! :D )

And this is going to sound super odd, but I have also had a number of creaks come from... wait for it... the rubbing between bib shorts and saddle. There are some combos that sound like a mechanical noise - for me it was an Astute saddle with Q36.5 shorts.

Hope you get that noise sorted.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 5:14 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Sunny So Cal
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I took the bike to my trusted local wrench last night for opinions. The first thing he found is the cassette lockring isn't as tight as it should. He also said the freehub needs little more grease. I'm hoping what he did will get rid of the creaking noise. I will find out during my next couple rides.

The lose lockring actually brings up an issue which I noticed when I took the cassette apart for cleaning first time. The 'washer' inside of the new 9100 lockring is like a very thin slippery foil which I doubt would do a good job keeping it from lose. I remember someone here said he ended up putting another piece of aluminum foil between locking and 11t so the cogs stay tied and creak-free. Maybe my lockring got lose because there is still space there? I never have a lose lockring during last 20 years but couple stripped freehub due to over-tightening the lockring.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 12:40 am 
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Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2015 11:18 pm
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Location: the OC, CA
I have the Speed 40 running DA9000 cassette. Mine does not creak at all, so it might not be the wheel.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 4:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:38 am
Posts: 176
no votes for greasing the skewers? sometimes the external cam ones (non-shimano types) creak a bit. i know my enves did.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 4:51 am 
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thegunner wrote:
no votes for greasing the skewers? sometimes the external cam ones (non-shimano types) creak a bit. i know my enves did.


The OP "lubed the QR's" and "switched QR from Fulcrum to DA" w/o any improvements.


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Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 4:51 am 


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 9:45 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 5:14 pm
Posts: 465
Location: Sunny So Cal
Finally I get to put on some real miles on the bike this morning. The 55-mile ride includes some serious climbs with a total elevation gain of 4,000 feet. The good news is the creak never came back and I suppose there is no bad news. Therefore I conclude either a lose cassette lock ring or a dry freehub contributed to the creak.


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