Alright, how to reduce weight for Tarmac Sworks sl6 disc
Moderator: robbosmans
So, lets start with the new Tarmac Sworks Disc frame. lets assume it's going to be 750g. Assuming money is not as much of an issue, how can we build this up as light as possible? I'm going to assume Sram Etap, but that's as far as my expertise goes. Thoughts? Mechanical disc brakes?
don't use mechanical disc brakes
the weight gain is not worth it
I really doubt the SL6 disc will be under 750 gr ,
even the rim brake frame is quite a bit heavier than announced , except in no paint stealth version
you buy disc brakes cause they are good, mechanical db not so much
The SL6 has a specific seat post , so you can reduce weight maybe with some light hardware for the seat post .
Take light and stiff stem and handlebar
Carbon wheels with flat spokes like cx ray , 6 bolts rotor are lighter , but the best rotor dura aces are only available in center lock , so light center lock hub
Tubular if you want the lighter , Tubeless or good clinchers with latex inner tubs for rolling resistance and comfort .
Light 30 mm crank , the new s works ? Or hollowgram
Carbon saddle
I think that's it ....
the weight gain is not worth it
I really doubt the SL6 disc will be under 750 gr ,
even the rim brake frame is quite a bit heavier than announced , except in no paint stealth version
you buy disc brakes cause they are good, mechanical db not so much
The SL6 has a specific seat post , so you can reduce weight maybe with some light hardware for the seat post .
Take light and stiff stem and handlebar
Carbon wheels with flat spokes like cx ray , 6 bolts rotor are lighter , but the best rotor dura aces are only available in center lock , so light center lock hub
Tubular if you want the lighter , Tubeless or good clinchers with latex inner tubs for rolling resistance and comfort .
Light 30 mm crank , the new s works ? Or hollowgram
Carbon saddle
I think that's it ....
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It's not going to be 750g. Since people's 56cm Ultralights are coming in at a >780g (and not the 733g claimed,) we can assume that the Ultralight Disc frame will be in the 810-830 range.
A high-end SL6 Disc Ultralight with something like a Berk saddle, shallow clinchers, eTap HRD, all carbon everything, light pedals, etc. could probably get down to 6.6kg before going with really exotic components.
A high-end SL6 Disc Ultralight with something like a Berk saddle, shallow clinchers, eTap HRD, all carbon everything, light pedals, etc. could probably get down to 6.6kg before going with really exotic components.
Last edited by TobinHatesYou on Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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romalor wrote:I think that's it ....
Lightweight thru-axles are an easy way to lose about 100g or so.
1x mechanical with 3T cassette
Juin Hdyro-mechanical brakes
Juin Hdyro-mechanical brakes
....which is lighter and not spoiled by sticky pistons, fading, bleeding, and unf----nbelivable ugliness of hydro levers. To not mention it's double priced.romalor wrote:hydro brake all the way
don't bother with hydro mechanical , mechanical ,
it's stone age technology
to make your life even more complicated, sure go 1x11. Why not ? Why your bike should be light & versatile ? Doesn't has to be. Not at all.
Remember also to choose frame without internal tube for rear brake hose. Then only you can experience full audio feel of disc braked road frame : RATTLING. On every non perfect surface ...what means on every surface
Don't forget as well to install rotors with cooling fins and pads with "cooling system" - bringing -time to time hot-calipers so close to structurally vital parts of the frame has its consequences... . Choosing hub for your wheels, be aware of possible clearance issues ( brake rotor vs frame ) - in many frames it's so tiny, that rotor is rubbing frame. Specially if both are "light".
I'm sure you're aware of all other unevitable issues with DB o road, so I stop here
Go to Heaven for the climate, Hell for the company.
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Mark Twain
I can be wrong, and have plenty of examples for that
Yep if you want a lighter bike don't use disc brakes. Can't believe how easily people are led by manufacturers BS!
Tarmac SL6 & Campag Record EPS https://weightweenies.starbike.com/foru ... 0&t=153968
"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen
"Sometimes you don't need a plan. You just need big balls." Tom Boonen
I'd just go with DA9170 except for the crank and the cassette. Go with a light pair of wheels (i.e. Leightweights, Bike Ahead Biturbo), cockpit (i.e. THM/MCFK), and crank (i.e. THM) and you end up with a really nice & pretty light bike. Additionally, you're wallet will be a lot lighter as well
First post! Just got my Tarmac Disc and am going through the same thing (coming from an SL6 Ultralight) I chose the holo color for the disc and it's a size 52 and it weighs 785g. My seatpost is 163g and uncut fork is 340g. So a 1288g starting point is not bad at all.
I originally bought Sram eTap HRD, but after weighing everything, the DA 9170 was actually LIGHTER by 100g. I'm using the Specialized S-Works crankset so really just measuing the difference between shifters, derailleurs, brakes, and batteries/cables (if required). Happy to share my weights. I did go with a Sram XG1190 cassette as that shaves about 60g off the build.
My best bet seems to be wheels (currently have Enve 3.4 with chris king hubs), stem, saddle, and then crankset (if I want to go THM). I'm using the flush mount axles that came with the frame so they're already pretty light. Also make sure you're using a lightweight tube like the SWorks tubes (mine weigh under 80g each). Lastly things like water bottle holders, your under seat tool bag, etc.
For all of you hating on disc, stop being trolls! It's entirely personal preference as to what stopping mechanism someone wants to use based on where they live. I personally live in San Francisco where we have some crazy big hills with steep grades and it's often foggy meaning the air is damp. Carbon rim braking is terrifying at times and having to pull hard with four fingers while trying to modulate and dodge things in the road is not fun. Disc brakes remove all of that. I can use one finger and quickly tap as needed. I've PRed on all downhill sections of my normal rides after moving to disc brakes and don't notice an extra 250g when going up hill.
I originally bought Sram eTap HRD, but after weighing everything, the DA 9170 was actually LIGHTER by 100g. I'm using the Specialized S-Works crankset so really just measuing the difference between shifters, derailleurs, brakes, and batteries/cables (if required). Happy to share my weights. I did go with a Sram XG1190 cassette as that shaves about 60g off the build.
My best bet seems to be wheels (currently have Enve 3.4 with chris king hubs), stem, saddle, and then crankset (if I want to go THM). I'm using the flush mount axles that came with the frame so they're already pretty light. Also make sure you're using a lightweight tube like the SWorks tubes (mine weigh under 80g each). Lastly things like water bottle holders, your under seat tool bag, etc.
For all of you hating on disc, stop being trolls! It's entirely personal preference as to what stopping mechanism someone wants to use based on where they live. I personally live in San Francisco where we have some crazy big hills with steep grades and it's often foggy meaning the air is damp. Carbon rim braking is terrifying at times and having to pull hard with four fingers while trying to modulate and dodge things in the road is not fun. Disc brakes remove all of that. I can use one finger and quickly tap as needed. I've PRed on all downhill sections of my normal rides after moving to disc brakes and don't notice an extra 250g when going up hill.
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