Build Ideas for trial of 1x Road Set-Up
Moderator: robbosmans
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
I’m interested in giving 1x a shot. In the past, I’ve had (painful) issues throwing chains during sprints on numerous bikes/builds from various mechanics.
I have just a few parts lying around and am looking for suggestions on a build for crits, JRA, and flats/rolling hills.
Existing parts: 6800 crankset, 11-28 and 12-25 Shimano cassettes, Sl-70 aero bars; Hed jet 6+ wheels.
Needs(?): Sram 1x rear derailleur (medium length cage?); 1x chainring for the ultegra crank (wolf tooth to be able to use existing cranks?); Sram 1x shifters; chain; brakes.
Enlighten me please on your ideas and preferences. Do the wolf tooth rings work as well as the Sram x sync rings?
Also, if you have any ideas for a good base frame or know of where I could pick one up, let me know. I’m roughly somewhere between 56-58 for most companies. Stack somewhere from 560-580 and reach from around 385-405 is probably doable.
I have just a few parts lying around and am looking for suggestions on a build for crits, JRA, and flats/rolling hills.
Existing parts: 6800 crankset, 11-28 and 12-25 Shimano cassettes, Sl-70 aero bars; Hed jet 6+ wheels.
Needs(?): Sram 1x rear derailleur (medium length cage?); 1x chainring for the ultegra crank (wolf tooth to be able to use existing cranks?); Sram 1x shifters; chain; brakes.
Enlighten me please on your ideas and preferences. Do the wolf tooth rings work as well as the Sram x sync rings?
Also, if you have any ideas for a good base frame or know of where I could pick one up, let me know. I’m roughly somewhere between 56-58 for most companies. Stack somewhere from 560-580 and reach from around 385-405 is probably doable.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
I'm running on 1x on 4 or 5 bikes and have experimented quite a bit. Here's my input:
Minimum: Narow wide chainring (between 46 and 52 in your case) on your current setup. Use http://ritzelrechner.de/ for gearing. Just mount the chainring, take off the front mech and go ride, you'll be fine.
You DON'T need a clutch / 1x specific rear mech for 1x. I used to run *without* clutch on my MTB initially, and didn't drop a chain.
You only need SRAM 1x mechs for: 36t and 42t cassettes or for seriously bumpy rides (CX races, very rough gravel).
I am running regular SRAM 2x10/11 levers on most of my builds, I just take off the left shift lever - 1 minute job and easily reversible. You can take out the cable drum & ratchets too to save a few grams - then you have exactly the same left lever as the one SRAM sells you for 1x.
I have lots of 1x chainrings (28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46, 50) from different brands, Wolf tooth and Garbaruk rings work very well, SRAM too. 2 cheaper ebay chainrings I have are noisy at higher chain angles.
BTW, my next 1x build will be an FM-066 with etap Wifli with a 9-32 3t bailout cassette and a blip setup so I can add clip-ons with shift buttons
Minimum: Narow wide chainring (between 46 and 52 in your case) on your current setup. Use http://ritzelrechner.de/ for gearing. Just mount the chainring, take off the front mech and go ride, you'll be fine.
You DON'T need a clutch / 1x specific rear mech for 1x. I used to run *without* clutch on my MTB initially, and didn't drop a chain.
You only need SRAM 1x mechs for: 36t and 42t cassettes or for seriously bumpy rides (CX races, very rough gravel).
I am running regular SRAM 2x10/11 levers on most of my builds, I just take off the left shift lever - 1 minute job and easily reversible. You can take out the cable drum & ratchets too to save a few grams - then you have exactly the same left lever as the one SRAM sells you for 1x.
I have lots of 1x chainrings (28, 30, 32, 36, 40, 42, 46, 50) from different brands, Wolf tooth and Garbaruk rings work very well, SRAM too. 2 cheaper ebay chainrings I have are noisy at higher chain angles.
BTW, my next 1x build will be an FM-066 with etap Wifli with a 9-32 3t bailout cassette and a blip setup so I can add clip-ons with shift buttons
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Thanks for the tip on the shifters. I’ll look for a bargain set used.
The clutch is the main reason I want to build a project bike because each of my chain drop/throws was on perfectly smooth roads while sprinting. Have you been able to notice any appreciable benefit to having it or not having it?
The clutch is the main reason I want to build a project bike because each of my chain drop/throws was on perfectly smooth roads while sprinting. Have you been able to notice any appreciable benefit to having it or not having it?
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
gospastic wrote:What kind of chainring were you using when you threw your chain?
On several different bikes: Shimano 5800, 6800, and Praxis: each time more painful than the last. Ultegra chains and 5800 and 6800 rear derailleurs.
I have lost chain on my roadbike on roadrace. Race was done, because I could not catch the bunch.
Garbaruk oval 48T
Shimano RD-6800.
It was on the descent, when freewheeling and probably hitting a hole on the road.
My suggestion is to use chainguide if not using clutch rear mech. For example Woltooth: https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Chainguid ... e-on-Mount
I have this on my CX bike. So far pleased.
Garbaruk oval 48T
Shimano RD-6800.
It was on the descent, when freewheeling and probably hitting a hole on the road.
My suggestion is to use chainguide if not using clutch rear mech. For example Woltooth: https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Chainguid ... e-on-Mount
I have this on my CX bike. So far pleased.
"Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride"
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
rainerhq wrote:I have lost chain on my roadbike on roadrace. Race was done, because I could not catch the bunch.
Garbaruk oval 48T
Shimano RD-6800.
It was on the descent, when freewheeling and probably hitting a hole on the road.
My suggestion is to use chainguide if not using clutch rear mech. For example Woltooth: https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Chainguid ... e-on-Mount
I have this on my CX bike. So far pleased.
Solid. If I'm honest with myself, this project is just as much about reducing the psychological impediment I now have to standing up and cranking down as it is about the fun of another build. A chainkeeper like that seems like a good idea.
-
- in the industry
- Posts: 5777
- Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
- Contact:
I have been on 1x11 since Feb this year. I use a garbaruk 52T narrow wide oval ring and campagnolo record 1 speed everything else. It works fine but in the lowest gear there is more chain noise. I can move the chainring in bit with spacers and i must do that. Otherwise 1x11 has been great.
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Tue Oct 24, 2017 7:01 pm
Are there any clutch rear deraileurs other than sram that would work on road? Looks like some people have done shimano’s Mountain di2 derailleur: anything else?
Shimano MTB clutch der and Wolftooth Tanpan, so you can use road shifters.
https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Adapter-T ... -Cassettes
https://r2-bike.com/WOLFTOOTH-Adapter-T ... -Cassettes
"Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride"
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com