Tubeless road tires don't work for everyone - discuss
Moderator: robbosmans
Good stuff. Need to try it asap!
Rikulau V9 DB Custom < BMC TM02 < Litespeed T1sl Disc < Giant Propel Advanced SL Disc 1 < Propel Adv < TCR Adv SL Disc < KTM Revelator Sky < CAAD 12 Disc < Domane S Disc < Alize < CAAD 10
I tri d the Bontrager R3 TLR's.
Initially they felt really good. Ride was supple and felt fast.
Then I got a cut in the tyre on a ride.
Trying to fit a tube roadside was a total failure.
Firstly there was gooey sealant everywhere
Then the tubeless valve was impossible to remove without a spanner / pliers so I landed up getting a lift home.
Replaced them with normal clinchers and tubes and never been tempted to go back.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Initially they felt really good. Ride was supple and felt fast.
Then I got a cut in the tyre on a ride.
Trying to fit a tube roadside was a total failure.
Firstly there was gooey sealant everywhere
Then the tubeless valve was impossible to remove without a spanner / pliers so I landed up getting a lift home.
Replaced them with normal clinchers and tubes and never been tempted to go back.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Ozrider - Western Australia
Parlee Z5 XL (6055g/13.32lbs) Trek Madone 5.9 (7052-7500g)Jonesman Columbus Spirit (8680g)
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Parlee Z5 XL (6055g/13.32lbs) Trek Madone 5.9 (7052-7500g)Jonesman Columbus Spirit (8680g)
Chase your dreams - it's only impossible until it's done
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If you remove crusty old sealant from the inside of the tyre, you may find the tyre revisiting some historical punctures when you re-inflate. Although the new sealant should deal with those.
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Tubeless valve impossible to remove...what?? Of all the contrived arguments...
Luckily someone even thought of that: http://www.boydcycling.com/shop/accesso ... ss-valves/
Luckily someone even thought of that: http://www.boydcycling.com/shop/accesso ... ss-valves/
TobinHatesYou wrote:Tubeless valve impossible to remove...what?? Of all the contrived arguments...
That happened to me. Paranoia that air is leaking from around the valve (provable when you inspect areas where dried up sealant is found when you remove a tire) so you get the needle nose piers out and tighten the freak out of the ring nut. Then on the road if you get a side cut or have a large hole you only have you fingers and suddenly realize it's impossible to loosen the valve without needle nose piers. Not a contrived argument. I never worried about that with MTB, firstly never needed a tube, secondly was only running 30-35 psi so air loss was way more minimal.
BTW what tires do you use?
I'm not trying to undermine tubeless, I love my tubeless MTB's and I'm hunting for as near as possible bulletproof setup for road. Seems like UST with orange sealant the front runner.
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It’s contrived for the reason you stated... paranoia. Why would you ever use needlenose pliers to tighten that knurled nut? I’m quite certain I could damage my carbon rims with the extreme end of finger tightness.
I use all sorts of tires. My last set were Zipp RT25s.
I use all sorts of tires. My last set were Zipp RT25s.
You can try a screw-nut of a Regina valve too.!TobinHatesYou wrote:Tubeless valve impossible to remove...what?? Of all the contrived arguments...
Luckily someone even thought of that: http://www.boydcycling.com/shop/accesso ... ss-valves/
Once comes a time that you'll have a tailwind
Pinarello F10 - Ultegra 8050 Di2 - Carbonspeed C38 Tubeless
Pinarello F10 - Ultegra 8050 Di2 - Carbonspeed C38 Tubeless
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Lewn777 wrote:TobinHatesYou wrote:I use all sorts of tires. My last set were Zipp RT25s.
What ones did you find where tough, seal well and are fairly quick? Any favorites? I'm looking for a four season, well sealing tire with a decent sidewall.
Try IRC Fomula Pro Tubeless X-Guards (the ones with the file/herringbone tread) or maybe Panaracer Race A Evo3. I generally run racier tires because I haven't felt the need for puncture protection layers since moving to tubeless. The tires I'm using now are the IRC Formula Pro Lights. I probably won't buy them again because they required levers to mount/dismount while the Zipps, Mavics and Hutchinsons go on and off with bare hands.
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Orlok wrote:You can try a screw-nut of a Regina valve too.!TobinHatesYou wrote:Tubeless valve impossible to remove...what?? Of all the contrived arguments...
Luckily someone even thought of that: http://www.boydcycling.com/shop/accesso ... ss-valves/
Thanks for the Boyd link. I like the looks of their valves, but I'm using the old ENVE profile, which is radiused and not sure the square/flat profile would work.
https://gzmyu4ma9b-flywheel.netdna-ssl. ... -SES-3.jpg
TobinHatesYou wrote:Lewn777 wrote:TobinHatesYou wrote:I use all sorts of tires. My last set were Zipp RT25s.
What ones did you find where tough, seal well and are fairly quick? Any favorites? I'm looking for a four season, well sealing tire with a decent sidewall.
Try IRC Fomula Pro Tubeless X-Guards (the ones with the file/herringbone tread) or maybe Panaracer Race A Evo3. I generally run racier tires because I haven't felt the need for puncture protection layers since moving to tubeless. The tires I'm using now are the IRC Formula Pro Lights. I probably won't buy them again because they required levers to mount/dismount while the Zipps, Mavics and Hutchinsons go on and off with bare hands.
Thanks, the IRCs are hard to source, but the Panaracers are fairly easy to get here.
I don't really care about needing a tire lever for install.
That's funny because I ride on R3's and exactly the same thing happen to me last week thanks to a big peice of glass. Too big to seal unfortunately. Took me 5mins to remove the valve, put a tube in and pump it back up, just the same as if I was running tubesOzrider wrote:I tri d the Bontrager R3 TLR's.
Initially they felt really good. Ride was supple and felt fast.
Then I got a cut in the tyre on a ride.
Trying to fit a tube roadside was a total failure.
Firstly there was gooey sealant everywhere
Then the tubeless valve was impossible to remove without a spanner / pliers so I landed up getting a lift home.
Replaced them with normal clinchers and tubes and never been tempted to go back.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If you're tightening the tubeless valve nut with a pair of pliers you're doing it wrong
Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Last edited by DOUG on Sun Oct 15, 2017 11:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
DOUG wrote:That's funny because I ride on R3's and exactly the same thing happen to me last week thanks to a big peice of glass. Too big to seal unfortunately. Took me 5mins to remove the valve, put a tube in and pump it back up, just the same as if I was running tubesOzrider wrote:I tri d the Bontrager R3 TLR's.
Initially they felt really good. Ride was supple and felt fast.
Then I got a cut in the tyre on a ride.
Trying to fit a tube roadside was a total failure.
Firstly there was gooey sealant everywhere
Then the tubeless valve was impossible to remove without a spanner / pliers so I landed up getting a lift home.
Replaced them with normal clinchers and tubes and never been tempted to go back.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Of you're tightening the tubeless valve nut with a pair of pliers you're doing it wrong
Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Yeah seriously... pliers?
dvq wrote:DOUG wrote:That's funny because I ride on R3's and exactly the same thing happen to me last week thanks to a big peice of glass. Too big to seal unfortunately. Took me 5mins to remove the valve, put a tube in and pump it back up, just the same as if I was running tubesOzrider wrote:I tri d the Bontrager R3 TLR's.
Initially they felt really good. Ride was supple and felt fast.
Then I got a cut in the tyre on a ride.
Trying to fit a tube roadside was a total failure.
Firstly there was gooey sealant everywhere
Then the tubeless valve was impossible to remove without a spanner / pliers so I landed up getting a lift home.
Replaced them with normal clinchers and tubes and never been tempted to go back.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Of you're tightening the tubeless valve nut with a pair of pliers you're doing it wrong
Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
Yeah seriously... pliers?
It's actually not my stupidity, it simply a poorly designed part. Think about it, I used needle-nosed piers to torque a nut tighter than you could by hand for safety and security, probably up to 3-5Nm, perfectly logical. The knurled nut was designed to hold a valve stem in place to stop the valve rattling on tube tires. To make the jump that this is adequate to hold a valve in place on tubeless systems is quite honestly lazy engineering.
Someone designed the tubeless valve for a mountain bike tires which run 30-60psi, then you want to run 80-90psi using the same valve at higher pressures you're going to lose plenty of air through the valve stem area, which can be seen by a build up of dried sealant around that area if you remove a tire. Plus it could be dangerous if it ever came lose.
Certainly there should be a different design other than the basic knurled nut for road tubeless, some kind of larger stronger hand tighten-able nut maybe with a mild thread-locker like Loctite 242. Some alternative designs we've already seen in this thread.
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