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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 4:54 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:25 am
Posts: 50
Location: Cambridge UK
bm0p700f wrote:
dim, on my commutor bike 9 kg with 6kg load min and 87kg of me I get 7000km from the last rear RBCC. it was bulging at that point from impact damage (ridden off road alot) but it was actually not fully worn. The current formula pro x guard tyre on there at present has nearly 4400km on them and the centre section of file thread is worn but the tyre looks like half way through it life according the wear dimple. the front 28mm RBCC tyre has 11000km on it and no wear to the file thread. These tyres can do huge miles. On a race bike with less rear load mileage would be higher. The roadlites i use on my race bike (lower Crr than the RBCC but less grip) have around 2000km on them and there is no wear not even rounding off. The formula lights I also use on the race bike have 3000km and again they almost pristine.

This is IRC's party trick. I can cope with a tight fit because once on it is one for a long time. I would not worry about a puncture. Over the life of the tyre for me it will be patched and stuffed with worms (flint everywhere and it slices through everything then add gravel road and farm track riding) and they solider on. I leave my tyres fitted untill they are bulging or worn which ever comes first.

The sannio will get some maxxis pardones when I get back from hongkong as I want to see how they fair on wet suffolk lanes.

Sanjay, the IRC's i use mostly are a tigher fit than most tubeless tyres but do not snap in place. The op sound as the bead locks is a schwalbe thing. the mavic tyres dont do that either. When a tyre pops it is because the bead is not sliding into the bead hook smoothly it is snapping into place. not all tubeless tyre do this.

To test the bead lock deflate the tyre and see if it stay locked in place with no sealant in place. If good thumb pressure has to be applied then you can ride with a flat. if it falls away with light pressure or with no thumb force then you cant ride with a flat and may get burping riding a low pressures after a puncture. hense why a good fit is important to me. I dont want to stop even to top up with air mainly because I can and do forget my pump.


thanks bm0p700f .... I'm well pleased with the IRC Formula Pro RBCC so far, and when I need to change them,(most probably in March), I will order the IRC Roadlite Tubeless ....

is there any info on the rolling resistance of the IRC tyres?

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Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 4:54 pm 


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2014 10:30 pm
Posts: 174
naylor343 wrote:
Sanjay wrote:
Anyone else had a similarly straight forward fitting Hutchinson tyres?


I have recently fitted a pair of Hutchinson sector 32mm. They were worryingly the easiest tyres I have ever fitted, period. I had the same worries you had. This being my first time on tubeless, I was very concerned as I constantly read about others battling to fit leaver busting tight tyres. After an initial problem with the rim tape that was pre-fitted by the wheel manufacture, and subsequently changed, they inflated. Orange endurance sealant added and they have remained inflated since. In 2 weeks I have only had to add air once. On the 4 long rides I have completed on them, I have climbed and descended Pyrenean cols hitting 70 khm+ and I'm still in one piece. Happy with tubeless so far, and added bonus of no damaged thumbs or broken tyre levers.

As an added point, in case anyone is interested. The sector 32mm measure 30mm fitted to a 17c rim.


Been looking at 32mm tyres.. do you happen to know the inner rim measurement of that rim (or the make will do I can look it up)?


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2017 7:10 am
Posts: 3
Thanks for that folks, reassuring to know that mine sound ok! I've just bought a pair of Hutchinson Fusion 5 Galactik 25mm tyres for the summer bike - 233g each. Hopefully they will be straight forward to fit too.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:26 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:25 am
Posts: 50
Location: Cambridge UK
Sanjay wrote:
Thanks for that folks, reassuring to know that mine sound ok! I've just bought a pair of Hutchinson Fusion 5 Galactik 25mm tyres for the summer bike - 233g each. Hopefully they will be straight forward to fit too.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


I've got Fusion 5 galactic on my list of tubeless tyres to definately try ... I will also try the Schwalbe Pro One

if I get a 2nd set of wheels that are tubeless ready, I will try the Corsa Speed TLR for PB's on Strava

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2008 1:46 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Ariege, Midi-Pyrenees
Been looking at 32mm tyres.. do you happen to know the inner rim measurement of that rim (or the make will do I can look it up)?

17mm internal


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 1:03 am
Posts: 507
Location: Madison, WI USA
peted76 wrote:
naylor343 wrote:
As an added point, in case anyone is interested. The sector 32mm measure 30mm fitted to a 17c rim.


Been looking at 32mm tyres.. do you happen to know the inner rim measurement of that rim (or the make will do I can look it up)?


Yes, Naylor343 does know the inner rim measurement. In fact, he provided it to you: 17mm. The ETRTO size (here, 17c) refers to the rim width between the bead hooks.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 11:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2006 1:03 am
Posts: 507
Location: Madison, WI USA
I got ninja'd (big-time) by Naylor. Oops.

I'm just dropping by to point out a thread I started in the Wheels section. I wrote a little piece of software to calculate inflated tire widths based on internal rim width and bead-to-bead (uninflated) tire width. If people are interested, I'll make the software available. Here's a link to the thread:

viewtopic.php?f=113&p=1359036


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 5:19 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:21 pm
Posts: 139
naylor343 wrote:
Been looking at 32mm tyres.. do you happen to know the inner rim measurement of that rim (or the make will do I can look it up)?

17mm internal

What pressure do you plan on running / check your rim's max tubeless pressure for 32c. On my Stan's Grail rims, it's around 55psi.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 4:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2012 7:25 pm
Posts: 3259
Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I have a bunch of crr data on my computer for irc tyres. The roadlite has crr similar to the conti gp 4000sII tyre in fact better I think (marginally) and the formula pro xguard has crr around that of the conti gp 4000sII.

I can't work out how to post an excel table though. Print it off and photograph it maybe the only way.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 14, 2009 3:16 am
Posts: 30
bm0p700f wrote:
I have a bunch of crr data on my computer for irc tyres. The roadlite has crr similar to the conti gp 4000sII tyre in fact better I think (marginally) and the formula pro xguard has crr around that of the conti gp 4000sII.

I can't work out how to post an excel table though. Print it off and photograph it maybe the only way.


Use the Snip tool. Then host as you normally would.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 10:48 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Posts: 111
How do you install and check tubeless systems? It´s recommended to put their more of sealant at the initial installation because something is lost during the first sealing..
Then after a while, when you want to check if there is still enough sealant, do you unmount everything, clean it from residues and reinstall? Or you just add new sealant?

In my case, after a while of riding I have realised that my wheels are 150 grams more than they should be..I put the tyres from the wheelset and the added weight was really in the sealant..(30grams were the tyres weighting more than advertised, maybe partly because of sealant residues)..

Now I am really thinking whether to switch to latex..


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 11:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:02 pm
Posts: 490
hannawald wrote:
How do you install and check tubeless systems? It´s recommended to put their more of sealant at the initial installation because something is lost during the first sealing..
Then after a while, when you want to check if there is still enough sealant, do you unmount everything, clean it from residues and reinstall? Or you just add new sealant?

In my case, after a while of riding I have realised that my wheels are 150 grams more than they should be..I put the tyres from the wheelset and the added weight was really in the sealant..(30grams were the tyres weighting more than advertised, maybe partly because of sealant residues)..

Now I am really thinking whether to switch to latex..


You shouldn't need to add more than the recommended amount of sealant with most tubeless road tires, especially those with butyl liners. Tires like Compass Bon Jon Pass with their really thin, porous casings might need 10mL more than the recommended amount I guess.

Some sealants come with a dip stick so you can measure the sealant level inside the tire. All you need to do is remove the valve core and stick it down the valve body at 6 o'clock. There is also a system/kit called MilKit that purports to let you measure remaining sealant by sucking it back up into a syringe. I haven't tried it because honestly my sealant outlasts the tread on the tires I buy. If you store your bike in a cool environment, some sealants like Orange Seal stay liquid for at least 4 months.

As mentioned before, there's really no need to clean/scrub out old sealant. It weighs next to nothing when dried out. Just add more sealant when you stop hearing splashing inside the tire.

Regarding weight...have you actually weighed everything before and after? My wheels almost never come in at advertised weight. There are some very light tubeless tires out there. I have yet to install the Fusion 5 Galactik TLRs, but I weighed both at around 220g. That plus 30mL of sealant is about the weight of the lightest clinchers w/latex tubes. 30mL of sealant will dry to maybe 5g total...it's really inconsequential.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 13, 2017 12:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Posts: 111
The excess weight is obviously my mistake. I just had too much sealant inside, I guess..I just added new sealant as a prevention of having not sufficient amount of sealant inside after couple of months and this is the result..

I have weighted my wheels before unmounting the tyres and after so the difference just goes to tyres, sealant and air. But air is just about 15g for both tyres.
I have 2 Schwalbe Pro Ones 28mm, should be 275g, one of them is 280g and the other 300g (both slightly covered with old sealant but cleaned by water applied from hose under pressure).

The difference between complete wheelset and wheelset without tyres and cleaned (but with valve etc), which goes to air, tyres and sealant was 780g. Should be 15g for air, 2x275g for tyres and 2x40g for sealant =645g..

Thanks for your tips, how to maintain appropriate level of sealant in tyres..


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:22 am 
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Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2016 7:28 pm
Posts: 111
Do you also have small leakage of sealant through the nipple holes? When I saw it, I had the tubeless tape changed (I could see that the tape is heavily pushed into the holes), 2 layers of DT Swiss tape. After reinstalling the tyres it is happening again with a newly installed tape..I use 7 bars on my front wheel (25mm) and 6 bars on rear wheel (28mm wide tyre). There may be slightly more during the tyre installation..

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:29 am 
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Posts: 752
That's an awful lot of pressure for such big tires. Why not run less? For reference, I am close to 90kg and run 6 and 6.5 bars front /rear, on 25s (GP4000s with tubes). Lower pressure should give you better grip and comfort.

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Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 10:29 am 


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