Noisy Older Hollowgram crankset and 10s Campy Record Driveline

[M2G]

I picked up a 2011 SuperSix to mostly live on my Wahoo Kicker Snap (wheel-on trainer) and it's having what seems to be a driveline campatibility issue. It's making a popping sound every couple of revolutions which changes depending on which cog I'm on and a few of the gears are quiet. Would a chain be causing this or is it compatibility between the Campy 10 speed cassette and Cannondale/FSA crankset?

[ghisallo2003]

Did you buy a used bike and then a new Wahoo cassette?

[M2G]

Did you buy a used bike and then a new Wahoo cassette?

Wheel-on trainer. Rear wheel stays on the bike. Same driveline issue if the bike is ridden outside or on the trainer. Guess the trainer bit I included was TMI. Sorry about that.

[bikerjulio]

Nothing to do with crankset.

After that there's a long list of issues that could be causing the problem.

You just need to checkout the entire drivetrain. I'd start with:

Chain wear/sticky link.

Damaged/worn chainring or sprockets.

Bent hanger.

[glepore]

+1


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[M2G]

What should eliminate a few possibilities is the fact that it runs crappy in the same gears always, and runs smooth in the other gears always.

That should rule out a sticking link, I'd think. Cassette is in like new shape. Chainring teeth are good but they are a few mm warped.

[bikerjulio]

There's still bent hanger, followed by poor adjustment.

Followed by cable hangup. Or just incompatible components.

What shifters are they? What derailleurs? What gears is this happening?

More info on the components and symptoms would help.

[Catagory6]

all you hear is a popping sound? you don't feel any kind of skipping in the pedal stroke?
with a 6 year old drive train, i would get a new chain and cassette.
especially if its happening in certain cogs, and not others, and if the derailleur hanger isn't bent

[M2G]

More data after an hour long ride. Seems like the popping sound is coming from the BB and it's noticeable while on the faster/outboard half of the cassette. Here's where the interesting and perhaps most telling part is. When I hear the pop, I can feel it in the bottom of my foot on one side or the other. This occurs in the following pattern: 4 pops at the same point of rotation on one side, then 4 or 5 smooth and quiet revolutions, then 4 pops with the feeling coming through the pedal on the other side. No creaking.

Components are Record hubs, Record Ti RD, Chorus 10spd cassette, Record Ultra 10 ErgoPower shifters. Hollowgram crankset with 50/34 FSA rings. BB unknown (perhaps original). The chain appears to be a KMC X10SL or similar.

[alcatraz]

Replace the chain even though it doesn't show wear. Worst case is you have an extra chain.

Close the rear quick release tight.

Check cassette and rear wheel for side to side play. Make sure you check both. I'd also take the wheel out and feel the axle for grittyness. I would also do the trick of with and/or without chain mount the wheel and put my ear to the seat while only the rear wheel is spinning. You can very easily hear gritty bearings like this.

Flip your bike, change to 4-5th cog and small ring and check the rear derailleur is running straight. Keep an extra eye on the pulley closest to the cassette. This one should be perfectly straight with the cassette cogs. Both vertically and horisontally from back to front of the bike. As you have the chain off check your pulleys for play and grittyness/smoothness.

If you have a kmc quick link you can try running it slowly off the cassette and see if you can feel something. With a bit of torque on the pedal, but keeping it slow by holding the wheel with your other hand.

In the same way you can try to compare the good and the bad gears on your bike. If you look close enough you could see the chain doing weird things on the cogs.

Also you might want to try and spin the cranks freely without chain, and if you suspect bearing issues you could take them off and feel the BB bearings with your fingers.

Check your chainrings and cogs for bent teeth.

Check play/preload on the crank, keep the splines clean, and make sure it's torqued properly.

/a

[shoemakerpom2010]

Since I have that crank I would check the spacing of the crank itself. If the spacing is off and the arm is not all the way in then the only thing holding it is the crank bolt which is making the pop sound every time the crank rotation torks and moves against the nut. Spacing and torqueing it on the BB spindle is very important on that crank since there is not much to grab with the arm itself being so shallow. If you have the tools you can pull rotate the arm off and check the spacing. If not take it to the shop and have them look at the spacing and decide if it needs more mm of spindle length to hold the arm on correctly.....

[M2G]

Since I have that crank I would check the spacing of the crank itself. If the spacing is off and the arm is not all the way in then the only thing holding it is the crank bolt which is making the pop sound every time the crank rotation torks and moves against the nut. Spacing and torqueing it on the BB spindle is very important on that crank since there is not much to grab with the arm itself being so shallow. If you have the tools you can pull rotate the arm off and check the spacing. If not take it to the shop and have them look at the spacing and decide if it needs more mm of spindle length to hold the arm on correctly.....

This sounds like the first real possibility mentioned given the behavior I'm getting. I just happened onto a video showing the "spider" on the driveline side of this crankset and didn't know it existed. Looks like I'll need a special tool to get that off, clean it up and reinstall it. I still think more has to be going on for me to hear/feel a consistently repeatable few pops on one side, a few moments of silence then few pops on the other side.

I hope it doesn't turn out to be a damaged or failing frame. I really like the colorway and ride characteristics of this SuperSix.