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PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:13 pm
Posts: 783
Calnago wrote:
Removing Ultratorque cups from a C60...

Use the RT-1 tool from Park.
Remove the seals from the cups.
Insert the tool until the prongs pop out the backside, allowing them to catch the lip of the seal seats. They should be strong enough to support the impact from a good strike to pop them out. Also, if you are using EPS with the sleeve this is really the only support you will be able to access. If a retaining compound has been used a good blow is better than a gradual "pull" or "extraction" in my opinion as the bond needs to be broken initially. This is even more important if you are dealing directly with a bond against a carbon shell (not the case with the C60), as a gradual extraction against a cup that has been bonded with retaining compound can possible shear away the carbon fibers as it pulls to reach the bond breaking force. A good solid impact is more likely to break that bond quickly and cleanly in my opinion.

The RT-1 Tool, and an ultratorqe cup with the seal removed...
Image

Inserting the tool through the cup. Assume the cup is installed in the frame but it is easier to see like this...
Image

Image

Image


If you have a solid sleeve through the BB shell, versus the more recent two halves, and you are not using EPS with the sleeve, then pulling the tool all the way through then butting it up against the outer edge of the cups will provide even better support, versus the seal lips on the inside of the cups.... like this...
Image

Once the tool is butted squarely and securely against the cup, a good solid blow with a hammer on the end of the RT-1 should knock it out cleanly. I prefer this to trying to remove the Threadfit cups with the Ultratorque cups pressed in (then removing the cups somehow afterwards) simply because I believe trying to unscrew the Threadfit cups with the Ultratorque cups pressed in with an interference fit has to exert a significant amount of force on the treads of the BB shell, so why bother. The above method is the easiest and safest in my opinion.

In the last picture above, I believe I "adjusted" the max diameter of the prongs on the RT-1 to fit the outer edge of the Campy Ultratorque cups pretty exactly.

Hope that helps you understand what you're trying to do with the tool etc.



Calnago, thanks a lot.. Very detailed as ussual. Even more happy now that i orderered RT-1 few days ago (based on ur post in some other thread).U just conclude this now.Also based on ur suggestion i ordered Morgan Blue paste...

I have idea now what im supposed to do. BTW, dont use EPS (im on Mechanical Record, and no planing to switch to EPS), and also newer C60 frame (2016), where there is not whole sleeve, but two...

Two more question:

What kind of hammer u suggest? Is this something important to consider, or any work hammer will do the job?

And im using Feedback Sport Sprint working stand... (so the frame will be connected to front or rear fork. Probably will do it connected on front fork to the stand). When i do the hammer job, do i need some friend who will hold the frame while im hammering, or not nessesary with this kind of stand? (i saw that as advice using seatpost stand).


Thanks a lot again.. Im sure this will be helpfull to many others members...


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 10:22 pm
Posts: 576
Location: Bristol uk
Imo i use a small hammer and a firm tap and they will pop out,i also used the morgan blue and new cups when re installing no creaking whatsoever.
All suggested by calnago in another thread :thumbup:

_________________
COLNAGO C60 SUPER RECORD EPS
TREK MADONE 9 SRAM ETAP


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Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 4:57 pm 


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 15, 2017 5:33 pm
Posts: 3
3Pio wrote:
LePouletTrapu wrote:
Alexandrumarian wrote:
Photos show the non drive side? On the left of the wear area there is something that looks like a hole. Is that a hole for the pin or just an artefact. Asking because the cup with the safety pin is supposed to be on the drive side.

Based on the internal cables that is the drive side it's just the angle of the photo which makes you think it's the non drive side.

To me it looks like the press fit cups are very slightly miss aligned, saw something similar on a mates bike once after he had trouble getting his cups installed and used brute force and the wrong tool to press them in. I would replace the cups to be sure.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk


Yes it's drive side.. I'll order a new cups, and continue riding like this so will replace in the near future..

While im at adding things in basket online.. It's recommended to use Loctite 609, but seem i cant find it online.. What i can use instead? I saw some suggestion instead of Loc 609 to use Morgan Blue Aquaproof Montagepaste, so is this ok? The loctite they have is 648 which is High Strength and 609 is medium strength...

Is this ok for assemblying press-fit cups in the my frame? (C60 have alloy insert in the frame, so cups are not pressing directly to carbon). I just hope that those alloy inserts are not damaged as well :(


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