Polar CS200 Cadence sensor problem

[brianwchan]

Hi,

So I was fiddling around with my cadence sensor today, I had it mounted on my seattube originally, which worked fine. I came up with the idea of mounting it on my left seatstay pointing towards the cranks, and putting the magnet on the back of the spider. To my surprise, it actually worked! It's awesome.... the entire thing is hidden and looks much nicer.

Just as I was all set to call it a day though, I saw that the cadence signal disappeared everytime I put the computer on the stem. The signal appeared to reach until the point of my headtube/toptube juncture before it faded out. I need some way to boost the signal of the sensor.... did some googling, but the power-boosting trick doesn't appear to work with the cs series. Damn. Any suggestions?

[nexusheli]

The CS mount is pretty flexible in terms of mounting options... does it fit on your top-tube?

[brianwchan]

Sorry to bump, but any ideas before I attempt to open up the sensor? I think if I can't get it to work, i'll just go without cadence... darn could have saved some money and gotten the regular cs200.

[alienator]

Sorry to bump, but any ideas before I attempt to open up the sensor? I think if I can't get it to work, i'll just go without cadence... darn could have saved some money and gotten the regular cs200.

Your serious? You'll go without cadence because you don't like the way the sensor looks on the downtube?

Someone else mentioned putting the computer on the TT.....

[brianwchan]

lol.... well honestly, i don't know why i got it since i've been biking long enough to guesstimate my cadence. The only thing it would be useful for is for uploading my data after a ride.

That said, I only have one bike that I ride and spend money on, so looks ARE important to me. After all, we are WW aren't we? Some people will spend hundreds to lose 3 ounces, I don't think spending 30 bucks on a cadence sensor and then not using it is so bad.

[Infin1ty]

Open the cadence sensor with a screw driver, pull out the electronic plate, now you can see a jumper, move it one slot (like the ones you have on a hard-disk).
now the sensor will be able to send the data much more far to the watch.
You can also do that with the speed sensor, to be able to mount it on the back wheel.

erm sorry, i just read the whole post carefully and saw you already found that.
probably that only work with the S series.

[Frasertri]

brianwchan, what is the signal booster trick you refer to?? I use a Polar 720i on my Tri biks, and in the aero position with the monitor on my wrist (don't want to waste transition time moving it..) it has difficulty picking up the cadence sensor - just a tad too far.

Your tip might help my issue...??

[brianwchan]

Hey fraser,

http://www.roadcyclinguk.com/news/artic ... 39/v/2/sp/

that should do the trick